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89 Jeep Cherokee Won't Start - No Fuel Injector Pulse
4x4 Cars Discussions about 4x4 cars. The on and off-road four wheel drive vehicle. (rec.autos.4x4)
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Re: Re: 89 Jeep Cherokee Won't Start - No Fuel Injector Pulse -
06-09-2005
, 01:35 AM
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Fuel pump won't stop the injectors from firing. I'm surprised at you, Mike. This is a perfect place to point to the ground strap g>. Jump the battery negative to a clean bolt on the firewall and see what happens ( try jumpering to the ground lug on the firewall up by the MAP sensor - the one with the braided cable on it - as that's the cable that rots out). On Wed, 8 Jun 2005 18:40:18 UTC Mike Romain romainm (AT) sympatico (DOT) ca wrote: The ballast resistor for the fuel pump is out on the drivers side fender by the radiator. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's langer1 wrote: > > "sevensixtwo_fmj" wrote: > > > Hey, > > > actually Help! > > > Here's my symptoms: > > > 1. Cranks fine > > > 2. Lots of good spark > > > 3. Timing was set TDC on compression stroke.. verified twice. > > > 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized > > > 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell) > > > 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the sensor) > > > 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional > > > Big clue is the following and explains why its not firing: > > > We stuck a Noid light on two or three injector plugs and > > > there's no pulsing to the injectors. This explains the lack > > > of starting. But WHY??? What could cause the fuel injectors > > > not > > > to be pulsed. > > > We haven't done a compression test but we've got a > > > professionally > > > built long block so I'm not sure it needs to be done... > > > Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated.. > > > HELP HELP HELP > > > Thanks > > > James > > Having pretty much the same problem. > > It seemed to start with the sensor on the flywheel so that was > > replaced. > > The next time it stopped I had some test equiepment with me and I had > > no fuel pressure, replacing the relay seemed to fix it but not for > > long. > > Next came the fuel pump and filter, seemed to fix it but not for long. > > I have checked all the ground wires, I have no power to pump, fuel > > pump relay pulls in for three seconds, pump does not run, there is no > > ballist resistor anywhere to be found. > > On the drivers side fender there is a EGR selonoid and a relay that > > should be the fan control. > > This is a 87 AMC 4.0. > > -- > > Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request > > Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards > > Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/4X4-89-Jee...ict119514.html > > Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=601383 -- Will Honea |
still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor. Here’s a
picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...p/IM000365.jpg
#12
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Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though and cleaned connections, still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor. Here’s a picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...p/IM000365.jpg |
on the fender to look for two orange wires twisted together with the
thoughts of finding a corroded connection or failed crimp where someone
bypassed the resistor.
Or looking up on the firewall for one. It is the typical chrysler
ceramic one.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#13
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langer1 wrote: Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though and cleaned connections, still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor. Here’s a picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...p/IM000365.jpg Ok, I would then be opening up the loom just below that vacuum thing out on the fender to look for two orange wires twisted together with the thoughts of finding a corroded connection or failed crimp where someone bypassed the resistor. Or looking up on the firewall for one. It is the typical chrysler ceramic one. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's |
Just down from the right corner of the Air Box, there is a small
orange block/socket sticking up, the orange wire’s go to it.
Plugged in to that block is what, at first, looks like a fuse.
But it’s a diode with <- +> on it. Sure looks like it’s in the fuel
pump circut.
--
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#14
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"Mike Romain" wrote: langer1 wrote: Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though and cleaned connections, still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor. Here’s a picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...p/IM000365.jpg Ok, I would then be opening up the loom just below that vacuum thing out on the fender to look for two orange wires twisted together with the thoughts of finding a corroded connection or failed crimp where someone bypassed the resistor. Or looking up on the firewall for one. It is the typical chrysler ceramic one. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's If you look ar the above picture. Just down from the right corner of the Air Box, there is a small orange block/socket sticking up, the orange wire’s go to it. Plugged in to that block is what, at first, looks like a fuse. But it’s a diode with <- +> on it. Sure looks like it’s in the fuel pump circut. -- |
If it is the orange wires, then I would carefully bypass it or
temporarily use an inline fuse on it to see if the pump comes back on.
Mike
#15
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langer1 wrote: "Mike Romain" wrote: > > langer1 wrote: > > > Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though and cleaned > > connections, > > > still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor. > > Here’s a > > > picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...p/IM000365.jpg > > Ok, I would then be opening up the loom just below that vacuum > > thing out > > on the fender to look for two orange wires twisted together > > with the > > thoughts of finding a corroded connection or failed crimp > > where someone > > bypassed the resistor. > > Or looking up on the firewall for one. It is the typical > > chrysler > > ceramic one. > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's If you look ar the above picture. Just down from the right corner of the Air Box, there is a small orange block/socket sticking up, the orange wire’s go to it. Plugged in to that block is what, at first, looks like a fuse. But it’s a diode with <- +> on it. Sure looks like it’s in the fuel pump circut. -- Did you test it? Could just be popped. If it is the orange wires, then I would carefully bypass it or temporarily use an inline fuse on it to see if the pump comes back on. Mike |
Every three to six months I have to disconnect and reconnect CPS to
get vehicle to start. Previous owners had lots of troubleshooting done
to find this intermittent problem [replaced original, still had
problem eventually] - even gave me a new one with the vehicle [which I
still have] - I have put over 100k miles on this ride in the last 6
years, and still ’Every three to six months I have to disconnect and
reconnect CPS to get vehicle to start...’
--
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#16
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"Mike Romain" wrote: langer1 wrote: If you look ar the above picture. Just down from the right corner of the Air Box, there is a small orange block/socket sticking up, the orange wire’s go to it. Plugged in to that block is what, at first, looks like a fuse. But it’s a diode with <- +> on it. Sure looks like it’s in the fuel pump circut. -- Did you test it? Could just be popped. If it is the orange wires, then I would carefully bypass it or temporarily use an inline fuse on it to see if the pump comes back on. Mike Re: Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell) Every three to six months I have to disconnect and reconnect CPS to get vehicle to start. Previous owners had lots of troubleshooting done to find this intermittent problem [replaced original, still had problem eventually] - even gave me a new one with the vehicle [which I still have] - I have put over 100k miles on this ride in the last 6 years, and still ’Every three to six months I have to disconnect and reconnect CPS to get vehicle to start...’ -- |
ones like the TPS and it was to do the same thing.
I went one better and recommend a spray contact cleaner inside them with
a smear of dielectric grease on the plug's sealing skirts. I get a good
2 or more years out of them before having to clean them again that way.
WD40 will sort of work as a contact cleaner in a pinch, but the fix
doesn't seem to last long. Real electronic cleaner is the best.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
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