ihcnut via CarKB.com wrote:
between two batteries, rather than run them both at the same time. Check with these
folks.

http://www.hellroaring.com/

Or do a google search for battery isolators

It's going to be expensive. But if you want something that's rock solid reliable,
that's what you have to pay.

--
..boB
Arrived: 2006 FXDI, Red.
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver
1HD1GEL10VY3200010 CO License J5822Z
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.

Thanks alot. Sounds like you had the answer. I will give it a try. Thanks for
the help.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/4x4-cars/200607/1

ihcnut via CarKB.com proclaimed:

The safest and most reliable way to do it would be with an isolator rig
like those used on RV's.

Anecdotal folks HAVE simply wired two in parallel, but all of those have
been lucky enough to never have suffered an internal short in either
battery--or they'd have had an underhood explosion involving battery
acid.

Monkey Wards used to have a dual power battery that had an extra set of
cells you could enable by pulling up on a lever on top of the battery,
dunno who actually made it for them or if they are still available.

Battery going dead on the trail sounds odd--something in the charging
circuit isn't set up properly for your driving style. Unless you use an
electric winch a lot--in which case go for a deep cycle battery for the
winch and a normal one for your engine--connect via isolators and carry
a set of heavy jumpers so you could use the deep cycle from the winch in
an emergency.

ihcnut via CarKB.com proclaimed:

Battery isolators are about 50 to 90 dollars. Automagically keep both
batteries charged, prevent one from draining the other. Cheaper than
risking damage to a battery or needing to buy new shoes all the time
from hiking out of the boondocks for help. Try a local RV store or J.
C. Whitney, etc.

You are right. It has a 4.88 rear end so it is not a threat on the highway,
but when it gets off the pavement, it keeps going. With the 4 doors it is
roomy and it is its own 4x4 winch.

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com

I don't know much about those old Jeeps, but I bet they are indeed "tuff as
nails." Furthermore, I don't know what kind of engine/transmission
combination the OP has, but I do know a little about IH's vehicles
(including the rust factor which they can get away with because there is
much extra steel to begin with). My '78 Scout with a 345, 2 barrel and Borg
Warner T-19 transmission pushed a broken down F250 up a steep hill so he
could bump start it on the down hill side (he failed to secure the battery,
it jumped out of the tray, shorted and burned the wires and there was not
enough room to jump straight to his starter). I squeezed past on his left
side, turned around, and kissed his trailer hitch with my Scout in 2Hi, 1st
gear (6.32:1, limited slip) and idled up the dirt hill After he got it
started he thanked me and asked how hard I was pushing on the excelerator in
low range. He didn't believe me when I told him I was in 2Hi and idling.
IH manufactured farm equipment long before they got into consumer products
and as a result the tended to (some would say) over build them. Alas, the
union broke one of the best truck manufactures the USA has ever seen (I know
they still build commercial trucks and their mom & pop consumer products
never had high production numbers, but IMHO they were the best of their
day - even tougher than a comparable vintage Dodge).


"SnoMan" <admin (AT) snoman (DOT) com> wrote

On Sun, 30 Jul 2006 23:21:26 GMT, "Ed H." <edo.hart (AT) verizon (DOT) net>
wrote:


I had a IH Scout once, a 78 with a 345 and a tourque flite with
factory dual. The 345 does not like to rev much past 3000RPM and is a
not smooth or quiet either. My Jeep has a AMC 360 in it with a GM THM
400 and a BorgWarner Tcase with D44 and D60 axles. From what I have
seen, AMC made some nice sturdy V8 with great torque too. It also has
a GM sterring with a Ford carb and igniton (it came this way from
factory) If I had it to do over, I would buy another old J20 but not a
Scout.
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com

Aah the venerable AMC 360. Nearly as much a torque monster as the IH 345.
Actually, I don't know the spec.s on that engine, I just know that I pulled
2 jeeps with said engine out of a lake with my Scout. The first one was
nearly submerged (he was trying to show how capable his rig was and go
stuck). The owner of the second said "I can pull you out" but he got bogged
down in the mud near the shore. I hooked up with an elastic tow strap, high
enough above the water line to get good traction, and put in 4Hi, 1st gear
(for bragging rights) started the pull with the engine at 2,000 rpm and
didn't stop until the first jeep was where I started. The circumstances
could have been reversed (except that I wouldn't back any vehicle that far
into a lake), but I can still shut both of them down with a simple reminder
of that trip.

No doubt the IH 345 doesn't rev very high, in fact anything over 4,000 rpm
and one will most likely rebuild the top of the engine. But it does produce
loads of torque and mine has an incredible low range. Factory specification
is 307 ft-lbs @ 2000 rpm yet only 185 hp @ 4,000 rpm. It'll go up any hill,
but it won't go down the highway at great speed. Though I find the engine
smooth if not quiet.

The only draw back is the rust. I'm thinking of putting on a fiberglass tub
(lots of work and money, but it should shave many hundreds of pounds) If I
had to do it over, I would get a Scout old enough that I didn't have to have
it smog certified every 2 years, or a Suzuki Sidekick/ Chevrolet Tracker so
when I finally broke it I could put on the back pack and just walk away
*grin*.

On Mon, 31 Jul 2006 01:55:16 GMT, "Ed H." <edo.hart (AT) verizon (DOT) net>
wrote:


I have owend 4 350 powered 4x4's since 73 and 2 currently. and two
were carbed and prelower compression emission engines. The other two
are FI (one TBI and one Vortec currently) And counting the scout, the
360 AMC has more grunt at lower RPMs than any of them hands down. THe
350's past it above 3000 RPM but below 2500 the 360 is a stump puller.
I had a 78 cherokee for a bit a few years ago that had a 6 and single
speed 4x4 and it blew a gys mind with it helped a diesel ford dualie
up a hill on wet grass that the diesel could not do on its own and
another 4x4 out of a ditch too. If AMC had marketed the fullsize
Cherokees in late 80 and into earlier 90's they may not of been bought
out because they would have sold then as the SUV craze was starting
but they killed them in 83. Chysler killed J10/20 in 89. I want to
restore mine to like new one day as it does not have much rust and it
is complete and straight. It has been sitting in barn for a few years
now and it takes a lap or two around the property a few times a year.
(I have 12 acres) Not sure what I am going to do to it restoration
wise so I have been holding off because I might do a fuel conversion
and engine change when I do it. (Propane or straight alchol (12 to 1
CR for those fuels) ALso you are correct about Scouts rusting. They
used poor quality metal and the body parts were bare untreated stell
with a high phosphate content just beggin to rust.
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com

On Sun, 30 Jul 2006 19:08:16 GMT, SnoMan <admin (AT) snoman (DOT) com> wrote:


more than *twice* the power? <g> So I use that extra power to recharge
the batteries adn never need an alternator! Love it!


But... I agree, simply parallel them for ease of use. That is what the
diesel trucks do.