I would like to change to a dual battery setup. What electrical equipment do
I need to make it work?

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/4x4-cars/200607/1

On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 22:37:28 GMT, "ihcnut via CarKB.com" <u19951@uwe>
wrote:


Make, model, year?
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com

SnoMan wrote:
Purpose?

--
..boB
Arrived: 2006 FXDI, Red.
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver
1HD1GEL10VY3200010 CO License J5822Z
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.

..boB proclaimed:

It is a 68 IH 4x4 p/u and I would like to have confidence that the engine
will crank. If I could switch from one battery to another, it would be nice.
I have been in the situation where the battery went dead while on the trail
and it is more than just aggravating.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/4x4-cars/200607/1

On Sun, 30 Jul 2006 17:31:39 GMT, "ihcnut via CarKB.com" <u19951@uwe>
wrote:


I would just parrallel two of them because you will get more than
twice the power that way. More than running each one down seperately
because battery efficency drops as load increases due to interan
resistance and gassing and spliting the load between two batteries
reduces load per battery and will also give you a lot more starting
power too, even when they are nearly dead.
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com

One should only parallel two batteries if they are of the same type and age
otherwise the poor battery will drain the good battery until they both put
out the same voltage and you could end up without the ability to start your
truck. Furthermore, if both batteries are low your alternator may not be
able to charge them both at the same time and could overload the alternator
(though with a '68 you could probably put in a big enough alternator to
compensate since you don't have all the electrical draw that modern trucks
have). If you just put in some kind of switch (i.e. a solinoid) then when
you cross connect the batteries the poor battery can drain the good battery
very rapidly which can cause all kinds of problems, even a fire.

I recently added a dual battery setup to my Dodge and went with a
Hellroaring BIC-95300B isolator/combiner which is designed to provide a
backup starting battery. It cost about $250 for the unit, remote switch and
shipping, but I think its worth it. Under normal operation, the truck runs
from the main battery. Once the main battery reaches a full charge the
backup starting battery gets charged. When I shut off the engine and there
is no charge going to the batteries then only the main battery is connected
to run the radio, lights, camper, etc. If the main battery doesn't have
enough amperage to crank the motor, I throw a switch in the cab and the
backup battery is combined through a regulating circuit so as not to
overload the battery cables and I have enough current to crank the engine.
You can also combine the batteries if you are using high current devices
like a winch. I have used it after camping for over a week, using the
lights, fan, stereo and water pump in the camper. The battery monitor will
indicate a poor or weak battery (I don't know what voltage the indicator is
measuring for it's various levels), yet I throw the switch and viola, the
engire cranks without a problem. Before then, if the monitor got down to
poor, I would barely have enough current to start the engine on a warm day.


"SnoMan" <admin (AT) snoman (DOT) com> wrote

I don't think it's fair to call that vehicle a p/u. It's more like a
tractor with a p/u bed on the back. I bet it will out-pull just about any
pickup except a diesel with a high gear ratio. I wish IH still made
consumer products. The '81 Scout II concept vehicle had _lots_ of promise.

"ihcnut via CarKB.com" <u19951@uwe> wrote

On Sun, 30 Jul 2006 20:32:13 GMT, "Ed H." <edo.hart (AT) verizon (DOT) net>
wrote:


This is GREATLY overstated. I have been doing it for 17 years and I
have never had a "matched" set of battieries and NEVER had any
problems. I have two vehicles with dual batteries too and I get great
battery life.(and let me tell you, snow plow duty is tuff on
batteries) I typcally replace the main battery every 3 years and move
it over to the aux postion and get a total of 6 years or more out of a
battery. They last a lot longer because the total load on them per
battery is greatly reduced. You just do not want to parrallel a deep
cycle with a regular car battery or a maintainance free with one that
is not thats all because they does have different working voltages for
ful charge (maintainance free is higher) and you will have problems.
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com

On Sun, 30 Jul 2006 20:57:29 GMT, "Ed H." <edo.hart (AT) verizon (DOT) net>
wrote:


You could say the same about my old J20 Jeep P/U too because it is
tuff as nails and tuffer than any new truck of any brand. Few creature
comforts though. It hauled 20K plus grain trialers for first 7 years
of life and then plowed snow until a few years ago and it still runs
and still stock drive train too.
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com