I have a 1998 Chevy Suburban K2500 4x4 7.4L engine (gas) that I am
experiencing some of the well documented brake issues. I need to remove the
front rotors (warped again) and have a couple of questions that are not
addressed in the service manual.

1. Can I remove the wheel studs (carefully) with a good punch and
hammer --- or do I really need to use a shop press as suggested in the
service manual ? To re-install the studs I was planning on pulling them
into place with a spare lug nut & washers.

2. Do I need to replace all the wheel studs with new ones or can the old
ones be re-used ? I wasn't sure if wheel studs were a "one time install
only" type of thing.

Thanks for the help.

On Thu, 7 Feb 2008 18:19:58 -0600, "cr" <cr (AT) tx (DOT) rr.com> wrote:

I recently went through this with my 2000 K3500 which is same body
style. The rotor kinda rotted away and came apart while pads were
still good. You can punch the studs out as I did but I suggest that
since you have to remove bearing assembly to remove rotor from behind
that you replace bearing hub assembly while it is apart. Hub can be a
pill to remove because the 4 grade 8 bolts holding it one are usually
very tight and sometimes the heads are rusted and they are undersized
for correct socket. It is a lot easier to remove axle shaft first to
gain better access to the bolts. You need to remove stabilizer link to
remove axle shaft. This can be a pill too and it is quicker to cut it
off and get a new bolt kit for it for about 11 bucks rather than fuss
with it sometimes. Also, I would replace the 4 bolts holding hub on.
They are about 4 buck a piece at dealer and a wise investment. I also
replaced my wheel studs as it cost me about 12 bucks for new ones and
now bear/hub, rotor, ABS sensor and hardware is all new. One more
thing. There is a inner seal that is in back of hub that seals around
axle shaft CV cup. I would replace that too while it is apart. Do all
this and you are good to go for a long time because being how hard it
is to tear down, you want everything fresh in there when you are done
so you do not have to go in there again for any reason for a very long
time.


SnoMan

Let the Trolls desend as their egos and insecurities need to be
feed....

-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

In article <hlnjr39gnu631eh8748pbk0ud6u5c1och3 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com>,
admin (AT) snoman (DOT) com says...

[snip]
__________________________________________________ _________
SBJ: 4T65E
http://tinyurl.com/2lcjkv
(Confuses a 4T65e with a 4L65e and won't admit it.)
__________________________________________________ _________
SBJ: Dumb brake question
http://tinyurl.com/2ya3wo
(Discribes the wrong brakes and won't admit it.)
__________________________________________________ _________
SBJ: Front wheel bearings-2000 Blazer??
http://tinyurl.com/2j44zv
(Claims torque specs are wrong when they are not.)
__________________________________________________ _________
SBJ: Snoball Defense System v1.01
http://tinyurl.com/2okyfx
(Snoball breaks these out when he knows he's wrong
and doesn't want to admit it.)
__________________________________________________ _________
Snoman these are things YOU wrote.
Don't like what YOU wrote?
Then YOU should stop posting.

Thanks for the tips. I had not considered replacing the 4 bolts and the
inner seal. I agree - would rather replace some of these parts now and not
have to go back in later.


"SnoMan" <admin (AT) snoman (DOT) com> wrote