Well all.. 8 hours of cursing.. I dropped the valve body and installed a
transgo shift kit which repairs sloppy shifts and bad line prs. IT WORKED
!!!! tranny shifts like it should.. I feel all the shifts and no whiplash..
Anyone who has a problem with the 4L60e and even if they dont, should have
this done.. It can be done with the tranny in the vehicle and on a 4x4 and I
did it so you can...

On Tue, 10 Apr 2007 17:10:46 -0400, "ChEvRoLeT" <lblower (AT) cogeco (DOT) ca>
wrote:


I tend to take a dim veiw of those shift kits. The OEM sprags and drum
splines are njot very strong and the shifts are soft for a reason. You
bang it hard enough and long enough you will have a expensive repair
bill. If it has been rebuilt with after market parts replacing these
weak ones it is a different matter
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

On Apr 10, 2:10 pm, "ChEvRoLeT" <lblo... (AT) cogeco (DOT) ca> wrote:
Just how complex is the valve body on this tranny? I did a shift kit
from them in my Dodge when I had it, what a BITCH!!! If you dropped
and lost or did not get one of the check balls back in its right
"home" you were screwed, blued and tattooed!

"azwiley1" <azwiley1 (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote

I think you'd find that if you did that on ANY valve body you'd be screwed.

On Wed, 11 Apr 2007 00:08:15 GMT, "Augustus" <no_one (AT) nowhere (DOT) net>
wrote:


Amen!
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

only one check ball had to be double checked but could be done with the
valve body down (above the seperator plate) ..the others sat in the valve
body (7 of em) while I raised it back in.. remember I was under the truck
getting pissed on to do this lol OVERALL It was fairly easy as long as
you remember how it came off.. I put all my stuff on a clean sheet and in
order and just reversed the procedure after.. ALSO the kit had awesome
instructions.. The shift kit didn't do like most do.. it has normal
shifts.. not the hard ones in the cheapo kits,. usualy I wouldn't argue with
snoman.. but in this case I have no choice.
To start, I had no error light. It only shifted really hard 1-2.. GM had a
service recal or whatever... it said a valve wore in the valvebody and
allowed fluid to seep by causing it to build prs.. WELL this Transgo kit had
me cut 4 notches to not allow it to 1. build too much prs while other added
springs made the shifts not be sso slow and sloppy. I have heard a %80
sucess rate on this. the only ones that made it worse were people that had
slipping and mud in the pan. My tranny had notta drop... well minor wear or
so the tranny shop said. This Transgo kit just added some springs inn
area's where issues were proven to be causing the 1-2 shift and error code
and only 3 holes drilled larger to allow more fluid.. that and a stupid
paper like clip spring to stop filters from closing off and restricting
fluid.. I noticed right away the tranny was shifting normal and it kicks
down better while going up hill .. before it lost power and then sloppy
shifted down.. If I am wrong sue me but for now after a 100k trip it is
working like new. OH a check ball had worn almost throught hte seperator
plate. the kit knew about this defect and included a larger ball... HELL it
coulda been that ball causing all the issues.. it was stuck in the gasket
and wasn't going up or down.. maybe all these guys having problems only need
new gaskets and drop the valve body down may be tht check ball... cheaper
than the assholes who told me "tranny is screwed $1700"..
"SnoMan" <admin (AT) snoman (DOT) com> wrote

On Apr 10, 6:54 pm, "ChEvRoLeT" <lblo... (AT) cogeco (DOT) ca> wrote:
Thanks man, that is the info that I was hoping you would provide. Are
there and points that you would say some one really needs to pay
attention to, such as an electrical connection or such?

no.. the electrical is easy as hell.. the valve body while dropping it is a
pain unclipping the shifter rod from the valve body.. as for the check balls
they stay where they are... they can't fall out , only the one above the
seperator plate.. but you can see if it moves or put a dab of greas on it to
hold it.. TRUST ME this was pretty easy.. just take pictures and get a
friend to help lower the valve body down as it is a bit anal with the
shifter pin connecting it to the shifter rod.. but you'll see that .. OH
buy extra gaskets for the seperator plate.. just in case.. they only cost 80
cents. CDN each.. When you see the instructions and pictures , you'll
laugh.,.. P>S easiest way to remove the serov is to cut the o-ring and buy a
new one.. it is a prick getting out....and don't put the oring back on when
testing the clutch movement.. but you'll see that in the instructions...
"azwiley1" <azwiley1 (AT) cox (DOT) net> wrote