HDManny wrote:

The two wheel drive engine has a conventional filter mount located on
the side of the block. BUT in order to fit the engine into a 4X4 chassis
and be able to change the filter they used a remote kit that moved the
filter up to the front of the vehicle behind a panel. Installing that
adapter eliminates the rear mounted filter. Now IF the person did the
swap using factory parts this is how the they would have done it.

However it is possible they used a couple different pieces from the
different vehicles. If the 2WD had an oil cooler they may have used the
4WD oil cooler lines and filter with the 2wd adapter on the engine. That
would give you two filters. Kind of dopey but it could be.

You will be able to see the extra filter from under the hood. Just look
down below the steering shaft between the engine and the frame rail. The
filter will be visible and so will the oil cooler lines.

Other than a few minor exterior items the engines are the same
regardless if they are rwd or 4X4. The later versions do have more power
and some nice features internally though.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York


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On Nov 16, 11:44*pm, "Steve W." <csr... (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote:
I'll check and see where/if the remote oil filter goes.
If it's not connected then they put a new oil filter on for no reason
and the old oil filter is doing the filtering. I imagine the same oil
filter is used in both locations?
I can drop the skid plate and change the filter myself if need be.
When I got the truck the skid plates were off it. I put them on.
Thanks again Steve

Different filter is used. They are the same base size BUT the 4X4 filter
is longer.
It is possible that both are connected. The easy solution if that is the
case is to buy the proper filter adapter for the 4X4 and bolt it in
place. Only takes about 20 minutes to do if needed. Basically you would
disconnect the oil line (one bolt in the center), then remove the
filter. Unbolt the adapter on t=it (two bolts) clean the block face and
install the new adapter with the proper gaskets. Then reconnect the oil
lines with new O rings on them. Should be less than 50 bucks for
everything.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

Life is not like a box of chocolates
it's more like a jar of jalapenos-
what you do today could burn your ass tomorrow!


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On Oct 4, 11:25*am, HDManny <HDMa... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote:
I got the complete vacuum line run diagram from my local GM parts
department. he printed it off and faxed it to me. It too a while
because he did not know where to find it in the computer. I think he
found it under the 4 wheel drive / HVAC are of the manual. My truck
had a similar broken line up on the driver side near the fender. My
vents didn't move and my 4X4 didn't engage. I found the leak and
plugged it witha screw. Unfortunately the line needs to be connected
to the "vacuum ball" or "vacuum canister" this acts a a surge vaccum
tank. Without it my 4 wheel drive would kick out whenever I put a load
on the motor. Based on the diagram I have it appears the hose is about
10 inches in total length, The down side is I still can't tell how to
get to the cannister as it is mounted between the inner and outer
fender.

tloepfe11 (AT) yahoo (DOT) com wrote:
That one is a PIA, you either remove the inner fender to get to the
canister, OR you can replace it with one from a junk yard. The 95-98 had
them mounted under the hood, as did some others. Just connect up that
one instead.

--
Steve W.