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battery problem
4x4 Chevy/GMC Trucks 4x4 Chevy/GMC Trucks Discussions (alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks)
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#11
 
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Re: battery problem -
08-10-2009
, 08:13 PM
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On Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:14:28 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: Think basics. My 98 Blazer, the "RAP" fuse was drawing more than 10 amps. I pulled the fuse and left it out, I don't need Reserve Accessory Power. Check also the voltage while running. 13.6 is needed to charge the battery. Go through the fuses by the drivers side front corner under the hood. See if any of them are drawing power. been there, done that. Nothing seems to be drawing the power when I test. It is an intermittent thing. Most days it is fine, then every once in a while, about 1-2 times a week . . . |
(gravity switch)?
I had intermittent problems with a '96 Tahoe that had one. The switch was
not sliding correctly, and would leave the hood light on (even if I hadn't
opened the hood. The switch would move to the "on" position, and stay
there). The only way I noticed it, is one night, I could see a faint glow
coming from under my hood.
I just disconnect the connector at the under-hood switch, and problem
solved.
John
#12
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"Michael Dobony" <survey (AT) stopassaultnow (DOT) net> wrote in message news:uh3b4xcp4ru2.1mcu3qxtkapp9.dlg (AT) 40tude (DOT) net... On Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:14:28 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: Think basics. My 98 Blazer, the "RAP" fuse was drawing more than 10 amps. I pulled the fuse and left it out, I don't need Reserve Accessory Power. Check also the voltage while running. 13.6 is needed to charge the battery. Go through the fuses by the drivers side front corner under the hood. See if any of them are drawing power. been there, done that. Nothing seems to be drawing the power when I test. It is an intermittent thing. Most days it is fine, then every once in a while, about 1-2 times a week . . . Do you have a light under the hood that comes on when the hood is lifted up (gravity switch)? I had intermittent problems with a '96 Tahoe that had one. The switch was not sliding correctly, and would leave the hood light on (even if I hadn't opened the hood. The switch would move to the "on" position, and stay there). The only way I noticed it, is one night, I could see a faint glow coming from under my hood. I just disconnect the connector at the under-hood switch, and problem solved. John |
glove box light. However, I have noticed something unusual. Normally the
volt meter shows at least 13.5 v, sometimes up to 14.5v. However, once in
a while I am lucky to get 12 v. If I turn the front vent fan off the v
jumps back up to 13.5 or 14.
#13
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On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 19:13:55 -0500, John wrote: "Michael Dobony" <survey (AT) stopassaultnow (DOT) net> wrote in message news:uh3b4xcp4ru2.1mcu3qxtkapp9.dlg (AT) 40tude (DOT) net... On Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:14:28 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: Think basics. My 98 Blazer, the "RAP" fuse was drawing more than 10 amps. I pulled the fuse and left it out, I don't need Reserve Accessory Power. Check also the voltage while running. 13.6 is needed to charge the battery. Go through the fuses by the drivers side front corner under the hood. See if any of them are drawing power. been there, done that. Nothing seems to be drawing the power when I test. It is an intermittent thing. Most days it is fine, then every once in a while, about 1-2 times a week . . . Do you have a light under the hood that comes on when the hood is lifted up (gravity switch)? I had intermittent problems with a '96 Tahoe that had one. The switch was not sliding correctly, and would leave the hood light on (even if I hadn't opened the hood. The switch would move to the "on" position, and stay there). The only way I noticed it, is one night, I could see a faint glow coming from under my hood. I just disconnect the connector at the under-hood switch, and problem solved. John I do rounds every night and would have noticed that. More likely is the glove box light. However, I have noticed something unusual. Normally the volt meter shows at least 13.5 v, sometimes up to 14.5v. However, once in a while I am lucky to get 12 v. If I turn the front vent fan off the v jumps back up to 13.5 or 14. |
Sounds like the alternator has very low output.
#14
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On Tue, 11 Aug 2009 10:38:43 -0500, Michael Dobony survey (AT) stopassaultnow (DOT) net> wrote: On Mon, 10 Aug 2009 19:13:55 -0500, John wrote: "Michael Dobony" <survey (AT) stopassaultnow (DOT) net> wrote in message news:uh3b4xcp4ru2.1mcu3qxtkapp9.dlg (AT) 40tude (DOT) net... On Fri, 31 Jul 2009 19:14:28 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: Think basics. My 98 Blazer, the "RAP" fuse was drawing more than 10 amps. I pulled the fuse and left it out, I don't need Reserve Accessory Power. Check also the voltage while running. 13.6 is needed to charge the battery. Go through the fuses by the drivers side front corner under the hood. See if any of them are drawing power. been there, done that. Nothing seems to be drawing the power when I test. It is an intermittent thing. Most days it is fine, then every once in a while, about 1-2 times a week . . . Do you have a light under the hood that comes on when the hood is lifted up (gravity switch)? I had intermittent problems with a '96 Tahoe that had one. The switch was not sliding correctly, and would leave the hood light on (even if I hadn't opened the hood. The switch would move to the "on" position, and stay there). The only way I noticed it, is one night, I could see a faint glow coming from under my hood. I just disconnect the connector at the under-hood switch, and problem solved. John I do rounds every night and would have noticed that. More likely is the glove box light. However, I have noticed something unusual. Normally the volt meter shows at least 13.5 v, sometimes up to 14.5v. However, once in a while I am lucky to get 12 v. If I turn the front vent fan off the v jumps back up to 13.5 or 14. Sounds like the alternator has very low output. |
about 12.5 volts at idle and peaked at 13.6 at 2000 rpm. First thing is to
change the alternator wire tomorrow to check it. However, today it was
totally dead when I went out there to start it up. I let it idle for a
while and then drove about a block and it died completely and would not
start. My wife brought the car and jumped it. I then drove it for quite a
while and it would not start again. I took it to Auto Zone and got the
above results. It just starts now and the back window barely closes. Also
note that the previous post numbers are from the dash volt meter, not a
real volt meter. However, the AZ numbers support the dash numbers pretty
close.
#15
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I have a 99 Suburban that has been having a battery problem. If I leave the battery connected it sometimes discharges enough to need to be jumped. I normally use the quick disconnect I put on it every time I shut it down for any length of time. It was so bad yesterday that I needed to jump it 3 times. I took it to Walmart and the battery was bad, the 3rd one in 2 years. Is it possible that the problem is all in the battery? Related question, I would like to set up a dual battery system. Instead of a battery isolator, could I just put in 2 power diodes in the charging cables? Mike D. |
stopped.Just disconnect neg terminal and put a current meter in series
with it.Current should be low, this is a guess but 100 ma or less. If
it is under 100 ma look for charging problems, some suburbans have
cheap alternators in them they may check good but don't charge all the
time. mainly when they get hot (The diodes). What does your dash volt
meter read? should just be under 14V after running for a while. Watch
it closely it should always be near 14 when car is moving engine over
1500rpm. if it is lower than you may have an charging issue. This can
kill batteries. Alternators are funny they will charge for a while
untll diodes get hot then they drop off to lower output.(Due to
leakage) you can see that with the voltmeter.
Yes you could used diodes if you know how to design the circuit
properly. They may require heat sinks and properly sized wires. The
forward (on) voltage drop across the diode is a problem during hard
charging you need to find diodes with very low forward voltage drop vs
the current. This will reduce the power dissipation and thus the heat
sink size.
Good luck.
Joe
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