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Can I Buy GM parts online, instead of going to dealer?
4x4 Chevy/GMC Trucks 4x4 Chevy/GMC Trucks Discussions (alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks)
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#31
 
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Re: Can I Buy GM parts online, instead of going to dealer? -
06-25-2003
, 09:12 PM
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"DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efa29e7_1 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... I'd be interested to know where I could get some quick understanding, [a laymans understanding], of the role electricity plays as far as resistence and these low voltages go, and why a butt connector creates too much resistence, how that may affect the voltage capacity and why. a properly installed crimp-typer (read : Crimped with the proper tool) |
are not. How many shade tree mechanics do you know that own a $120.00
crimping tool.
Quote:
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butt-connector or end-connector (spade lug, ring lug) will have negligible resistance |
connector. Then resistance will rise and connection will become poor. This
doesn't happen with a soldered joint. This is why the supplier who makes our
harnesses not only crimps, but also solders butt connectors.
Quote:
|
it's a non-issue, else the airliners wouldn't be full of them |
that there are any unsoldered butt connectors in any critical systems. If
there were, that would explain a few things.
Dave
Quote:
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#32
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"Gary Glaenzer" <nobulltrans (AT) mchsi (DOT) com> wrote in message news:uUqKa.20289$Ab2.40896 (AT) sccrnsc01 (DOT) .. "DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efa29e7_1 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... I'd be interested to know where I could get some quick understanding, [a laymans understanding], of the role electricity plays as far as resistence and these low voltages go, and why a butt connector creates too much resistence, how that may affect the voltage capacity and why. a properly installed crimp-typer (read : Crimped with the proper tool) This is key. Problem is, butt connectors are cheap, proper crimping tools are not. How many shade tree mechanics do you know that own a $120.00 crimping tool. |
you must buy from the snap-on guy
a good crimper (IDEAL brand) can be had at any electrical supply warehouse
for under 30 bucks
Quote:
|
butt-connector or end-connector (spade lug, ring lug) will have negligible resistance True, at first anyway, until oxidation begins to work on the wires and connector. Then resistance will rise and connection will become poor. |
bad
Quote:
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This doesn't happen with a soldered joint. |
than a properly crimped connection, thank you
Quote:
|
This is why the supplier who makes our harnesses not only crimps, but also solders butt connectors. it's a non-issue, else the airliners wouldn't be full of them I'm not familiar with an airliner's wiring system, but I seriously doubt that there are any unsoldered butt connectors in any critical systems. If there were, that would explain a few things. |
was invented ?
WW-2, it was invented to have to keep from SOLDERING all the connections on
fighters and bombers
#33
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"Gary Glaenzer" <nobulltrans (AT) mchsi (DOT) com> wrote in message news:uUqKa.20289$Ab2.40896 (AT) sccrnsc01 (DOT) .. "DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efa29e7_1 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... I'd be interested to know where I could get some quick understanding, [a laymans understanding], of the role electricity plays as far as resistence and these low voltages go, and why a butt connector creates too much resistence, how that may affect the voltage capacity and why. a properly installed crimp-typer (read : Crimped with the proper tool) butt-connector or end-connector (spade lug, ring lug) will have negligible resistance it's a non-issue, else the airliners wouldn't be full of them What is "resistence" defined as for our purposes here Gary? |
could actually be up to several tens of ohms without being a problem
Quote:
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My GM repair manual says that the TPS should be adjusted to read .45 volts + or - .06 volts. |
whatever the booksays............
Quote:
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Thinking in machinist's terms, thats a pretty relatively small unit of measurement. I'm just using a laymans reasoning here but to my way of thinking then, it wouldn't take much resistence to impede that flow, [of electricity].? |
small.....the ECM is supplying 5V to the 'top' of the TPS, 'bottom' is
ground potential, and the 'wiper' or variable terminal feeds a voltage back
to the ECM
since most sensor inputs show a very high (25,000 ohms or greater) 'input
impedance', any resistance up to 100 or so ohms anywhere in the TPS feed or
return circuit would make very little difference
resistance in the GROUND side could conceivably raise the minimum past
acceptable levels, however.
Quote:
|
I do admit however, my logic may not apply to electronics, [voltages, wire sizes, insulation thicknesses, resistence, etc.], and how they work together. So I'd like an understanding of that if someone can give it without too much effort. |
DC circuits and go thru it...........you need to bone up on the basics of
voltage, current, and resistance, which will make understanding all your
above questions pretty simple.
try the public library, 'The Radio Amateur's Handbook', the late 50's to
early 70's editions had a really good chapter on 'Basic Electrical Circuits'
(the armed forces used this part of the Handbook as basic training material
for all radio operators and repairmen during WW-2)
Quote:
|
Hatt -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =----- |
#34
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"Dave Brower" <davebrower6 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:bddkp8$r7djq$1 (AT) ID-189204 (DOT) news.dfncis.de... "Gary Glaenzer" <nobulltrans (AT) mchsi (DOT) com> wrote in message news:uUqKa.20289$Ab2.40896 (AT) sccrnsc01 (DOT) .. "DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efa29e7_1 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... I'd be interested to know where I could get some quick understanding, [a laymans understanding], of the role electricity plays as far as resistence and these low voltages go, and why a butt connector creates too much resistence, how that may affect the voltage capacity and why. a properly installed crimp-typer (read : Crimped with the proper tool) This is key. Problem is, butt connectors are cheap, proper crimping tools are not. How many shade tree mechanics do you know that own a $120.00 crimping tool. $ 120 ???? you must buy from the snap-on guy a good crimper (IDEAL brand) can be had at any electrical supply warehouse for under 30 bucks |
are available from about $40 on up to as much as you can afford. $120.00 is
the low end of the *good* crimpers that make four indentations with one
stroke. (like a factory crimp). Even these are not good enough for our
engineers who insist that we solder ALL butt joints and terminals that we
replace.
Quote:
| butt-connector or end-connector (spade lug, ring lug) will have negligible resistance True, at first anyway, until oxidation begins to work on the wires and connector. Then resistance will rise and connection will become poor. not if properly crimped. the wire will corrode in two before the joint goes bad |
Quote:
|
This doesn't happen with a soldered joint. I've seen more than enough 'soldered' joints that had far more resistance than a properly crimped connection, thank you |
IMO
Quote:
| This is why the supplier who makes our harnesses not only crimps, but also solders butt connectors. it's a non-issue, else the airliners wouldn't be full of them I'm not familiar with an airliner's wiring system, but I seriously doubt that there are any unsoldered butt connectors in any critical systems. If there were, that would explain a few things. so I take it that you're not familiar with WHEN and WHY the crimp terminal was invented ? |
Quote:
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WW-2, it was invented to have to keep from SOLDERING all the connections on fighters and bombers |
1940s technology? During the war, I doubt that they expected those fighters
and bombers to have a very long life span. Most of us hope our vehicles( and
airliners ) will last longer than that.
Gary, I'm not trying to start a fight here, but I do firmly believe that
soldered is better than solder-less (even though solder-less is quicker and
easier).
Dave
Quote:
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#35
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"Dave Brower" <davebrower6 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:bddpq0$rje35$1 (AT) ID-189204 (DOT) news.dfncis.de... "Gary Glaenzer" <nobulltrans (AT) mchsi (DOT) com> wrote in message news:kZsKa.19855$Fy6.6891 (AT) sccrnsc03 (DOT) .. "Dave Brower" <davebrower6 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:bddkp8$r7djq$1 (AT) ID-189204 (DOT) news.dfncis.de... "Gary Glaenzer" <nobulltrans (AT) mchsi (DOT) com> wrote in message news:uUqKa.20289$Ab2.40896 (AT) sccrnsc01 (DOT) .. "DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efa29e7_1 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... This is key. Problem is, butt connectors are cheap, proper crimping tools are not. How many shade tree mechanics do you know that own a $120.00 crimping tool. $ 120 ???? you must buy from the snap-on guy a good crimper (IDEAL brand) can be had at any electrical supply warehouse for under 30 bucks I guess it depends on your definition of *good*. We use PACKARD brand which are available from about $40 on up to as much as you can afford. $120.00 is the low end of the *good* crimpers that make four indentations with one stroke. (like a factory crimp). Even these are not good enough for our engineers who insist that we solder ALL butt joints and terminals that we replace. butt-connector or end-connector (spade lug, ring lug) will have negligible resistance True, at first anyway, until oxidation begins to work on the wires and connector. Then resistance will rise and connection will become poor. not if properly crimped. the wire will corrode in two before the joint goes bad The wire will corrode IN the joint. Dissimilar metals. This doesn't happen with a soldered joint. I've seen more than enough 'soldered' joints that had far more resistance than a properly crimped connection, thank you So have I, but a well soldered joint is still better than one that is not. IMO This is why the supplier who makes our harnesses not only crimps, but also solders butt connectors. it's a non-issue, else the airliners wouldn't be full of them I'm not familiar with an airliner's wiring system, but I seriously doubt that there are any unsoldered butt connectors in any critical systems. If there were, that would explain a few things. so I take it that you're not familiar with WHEN and WHY the crimp terminal was invented ? Nope. But thanks for the information. WW-2, it was invented to have to keep from SOLDERING all the connections on fighters and bombers So you're saying that they build todays airliners' wiring systems using 1940s technology? During the war, I doubt that they expected those fighters and bombers to have a very long life span. Most of us hope our vehicles( and airliners ) will last longer than that. Gary, I'm not trying to start a fight here, but I do firmly believe that soldered is better than solder-less (even though solder-less is quicker and easier). I never said that solderless was BETTER than soldered. If I have the space, time, and tools available, I'll solder it every time. But your posts seem to imply that soldering is the end-all to terminations, that it is absolutely necessary. It's not..............it's a very good process, when done right, but under the hood of a vehicle, or laying on your back working overhead, sometimes its JUST NOT PRACTICAL..........where crimping IS. I agree, there are times when soldering isn't practical. In those cases I |
:0
BTW, I have a Weller butane fired soldering iron that is the cat's meow for
12ga and smaller, where igniting gasoline wouldn't be an issue. Handy as
hell.
Dave
#36
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"GaWd" <samroza@hotmail*NOSPAM*.com> wrote in message news:EiqKa.3649$6X5.3 (AT) newssvr19 (DOT) news.prodigy.com... Honestly, it doesn't make much of a difference at all. Why would the factory use crimp-on connectors(all the molex/weatherpak plugs)? People will probably respond with answers 180degrees of my opinion. Well, that's the way it goes. Butt connectors and other solderless connectors has received a bad rap because more than half of the population out there that uses tham can't find their asses with both hands. As a consequence, they're unsealed(no shrink tube), poorly crimped on(improper tools), have a tendency to ruin wires(too much crimp!), fall off, rot away...Etc. Etc. If the right person is doing the job, a solderless connector serves the same purpose and does almost as good of a job as soldering without the PITA that soldering in an engine compartment can be. There's nothing worse, IMO, than trying to position things just right in an engine compartment with the wind blowing and cooling off your wires, Etc. BTDT, didn't even get the shirt. you need a bigger soldering iron (or gun) try to find an old Weller D-8200 gun at a garage sale.........100/140 watts, will solder up to # 12 without too much trouble, # 10 if you have a few minutes to spare---------IF you keep the connections to the tip tight (read: loosen them and then snug down every time you take it out of the toolbox) if you're into soldering really heavy stuff, the D550 will do 200/260 watts, will solder a lug on # 8 wire more here: http://www.practicalcomponents.com/tools_supplies_training/tools-weller.htm Sam "DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efa29e7_1 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... "rock_doctor" <rock_doctor (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:sUNJa.78$tL7.26347643 (AT) news (DOT) netcarrier.net... "DJ Hatt" <none (AT) nowheres-ville (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3ef79edd_4 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... That is right! I forgot about that. Maybe this is why sometimes the ECM is picking this up and other times its not. What do you insulate connections with after soldering? And which kind of solder should I use? Hatt I usually just use the generic solder from Radio Shack (64-004 which is standard 60/40 solder for electronics) and a 100 watt gun from wal mart (will be cheaper at wm). Slip over one of the wires a piece of shrink tubing (also from Radio Shack) then twist the wires together. Carefully heat the bare ends with the tip of the soldering gun while touching the wire with the solder. When the wires get hot enough they will melt the solder and the solder will wick into the wire. When both wires are coated with lead just let cool and the straighten out; then cover with the shrink tubing. Use a lighter to carefully heat the shrink tubing and you are done. If you don't want to use the shrink tubing then just carefully wrap them with electrical tape, which will work fine and will not be dangerous with having an open flame near gasoline..... good luck, mark Hi Mark, Thanks for the info. I managed to solder a couple of connections this afternoon. Didn't look at the wattage of the soldering iron, its one of those straight ones but it sure took a long time to get the wire heated enough to solder, but I got it done. I'd be interested to know where I could get some quick understanding, [a laymans understanding], of the role electricity plays as far as resistence and these low voltages go, and why a butt connector creates too much resistence, how that may affect the voltage capacity and why. Hatt -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =----- |
#37
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"GaWd" <samroza@hotmail*NOSPAM*.com> wrote in message news:EiqKa.3649$6X5.3 (AT) newssvr19 (DOT) news.prodigy.com... Honestly, it doesn't make much of a difference at all. Why would the factory use crimp-on connectors(all the molex/weatherpak plugs)? People will probably respond with answers 180degrees of my opinion. Well, that's the way it goes. Butt connectors and other solderless connectors has received a bad rap because more than half of the population out there that uses tham can't find their asses with both hands. As a consequence, they're unsealed(no shrink tube), poorly crimped on(improper tools), have a tendency to ruin wires(too much crimp!), fall off, rot away...Etc. Etc. If the right person is doing the job, a solderless connector serves the same purpose and does almost as good of a job as soldering without the PITA that soldering in an engine compartment can be. There's nothing worse, IMO, than trying to position things just right in an engine compartment with the wind blowing and cooling off your wires, Etc. BTDT, didn't even get the shirt. you need a bigger soldering iron (or gun) try to find an old Weller D-8200 gun at a garage sale.........100/140 watts, will solder up to # 12 without too much trouble, # 10 if you have a few minutes to spare---------IF you keep the connections to the tip tight (read: loosen them and then snug down every time you take it out of the toolbox) if you're into soldering really heavy stuff, the D550 will do 200/260 watts, will solder a lug on # 8 wire more here: http://www.practicalcomponents.com/tools_supplies_training/tools-weller.htm Sam "DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efa29e7_1 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... "rock_doctor" <rock_doctor (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:sUNJa.78$tL7.26347643 (AT) news (DOT) netcarrier.net... "DJ Hatt" <none (AT) nowheres-ville (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3ef79edd_4 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... That is right! I forgot about that. Maybe this is why sometimes the ECM is picking this up and other times its not. What do you insulate connections with after soldering? And which kind of solder should I use? Hatt I usually just use the generic solder from Radio Shack (64-004 which is standard 60/40 solder for electronics) and a 100 watt gun from wal mart (will be cheaper at wm). Slip over one of the wires a piece of shrink tubing (also from Radio Shack) then twist the wires together. Carefully heat the bare ends with the tip of the soldering gun while touching the wire with the solder. When the wires get hot enough they will melt the solder and the solder will wick into the wire. When both wires are coated with lead just let cool and the straighten out; then cover with the shrink tubing. Use a lighter to carefully heat the shrink tubing and you are done. If you don't want to use the shrink tubing then just carefully wrap them with electrical tape, which will work fine and will not be dangerous with having an open flame near gasoline..... good luck, mark Hi Mark, Thanks for the info. I managed to solder a couple of connections this afternoon. Didn't look at the wattage of the soldering iron, its one of those straight ones but it sure took a long time to get the wire heated enough to solder, but I got it done. I'd be interested to know where I could get some quick understanding, [a laymans understanding], of the role electricity plays as far as resistence and these low voltages go, and why a butt connector creates too much resistence, how that may affect the voltage capacity and why. Hatt -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =----- |
#38
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"DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efa5f48_1 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... "Gary Glaenzer" <nobulltrans (AT) mchsi (DOT) com> wrote in message news:uUqKa.20289$Ab2.40896 (AT) sccrnsc01 (DOT) .. "DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efa29e7_1 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... I'd be interested to know where I could get some quick understanding, [a laymans understanding], of the role electricity plays as far as resistence and these low voltages go, and why a butt connector creates too much resistence, how that may affect the voltage capacity and why. a properly installed crimp-typer (read : Crimped with the proper tool) butt-connector or end-connector (spade lug, ring lug) will have negligible resistance it's a non-issue, else the airliners wouldn't be full of them What is "resistence" defined as for our purposes here Gary? Since there is very little current flowing in the TPS circuit, resistance could actually be up to several tens of ohms without being a problem My GM repair manual says that the TPS should be adjusted to read .45 volts + or - .06 volts. OK, that sounds reasonable, I've always used 0.50 as a standard, but whatever the booksays............ Thinking in machinist's terms, thats a pretty relatively small unit of measurement. I'm just using a laymans reasoning here but to my way of thinking then, it wouldn't take much resistence to impede that flow, [of electricity].? as I said above, the amount of current flowing in that circuit is very, very small.....the ECM is supplying 5V to the 'top' of the TPS, 'bottom' is ground potential, and the 'wiper' or variable terminal feeds a voltage back to the ECM since most sensor inputs show a very high (25,000 ohms or greater) 'input impedance', any resistance up to 100 or so ohms anywhere in the TPS feed or return circuit would make very little difference resistance in the GROUND side could conceivably raise the minimum past acceptable levels, however. I do admit however, my logic may not apply to electronics, [voltages, wire sizes, insulation thicknesses, resistence, etc.], and how they work together. So I'd like an understanding of that if someone can give it without too much effort. without trying to sound 'preachy', I'd suggest you find a good text on basic DC circuits and go thru it...........you need to bone up on the basics of voltage, current, and resistance, which will make understanding all your above questions pretty simple. try the public library, 'The Radio Amateur's Handbook', the late 50's to early 70's editions had a really good chapter on 'Basic Electrical Circuits' (the armed forces used this part of the Handbook as basic training material for all radio operators and repairmen during WW-2) Hatt |
It is the basis for the relationship between Voltage, Resistance and
Amperage(and much more, really).
Sam
P.S.- Just crimp the sucker :-]
Quote:
| -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =----- |
#39
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"Gary Glaenzer" <nobulltrans (AT) mchsi (DOT) com> wrote in message news:V2uKa.20345$Fy6.7340 (AT) sccrnsc03 (DOT) .. "Dave Brower" <davebrower6 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:bddpq0$rje35$1 (AT) ID-189204 (DOT) news.dfncis.de... "Gary Glaenzer" <nobulltrans (AT) mchsi (DOT) com> wrote in message news:kZsKa.19855$Fy6.6891 (AT) sccrnsc03 (DOT) .. "Dave Brower" <davebrower6 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote in message news:bddkp8$r7djq$1 (AT) ID-189204 (DOT) news.dfncis.de... "Gary Glaenzer" <nobulltrans (AT) mchsi (DOT) com> wrote in message news:uUqKa.20289$Ab2.40896 (AT) sccrnsc01 (DOT) .. "DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efa29e7_1 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... This is key. Problem is, butt connectors are cheap, proper crimping tools are not. How many shade tree mechanics do you know that own a $120.00 crimping tool. $ 120 ???? you must buy from the snap-on guy a good crimper (IDEAL brand) can be had at any electrical supply warehouse for under 30 bucks I guess it depends on your definition of *good*. We use PACKARD brand which are available from about $40 on up to as much as you can afford. $120.00 is the low end of the *good* crimpers that make four indentations with one stroke. (like a factory crimp). Even these are not good enough for our engineers who insist that we solder ALL butt joints and terminals that we replace. butt-connector or end-connector (spade lug, ring lug) will have negligible resistance True, at first anyway, until oxidation begins to work on the wires and connector. Then resistance will rise and connection will become poor. not if properly crimped. the wire will corrode in two before the joint goes bad The wire will corrode IN the joint. Dissimilar metals. This doesn't happen with a soldered joint. I've seen more than enough 'soldered' joints that had far more resistance than a properly crimped connection, thank you So have I, but a well soldered joint is still better than one that is not. IMO This is why the supplier who makes our harnesses not only crimps, but also solders butt connectors. it's a non-issue, else the airliners wouldn't be full of them I'm not familiar with an airliner's wiring system, but I seriously doubt that there are any unsoldered butt connectors in any critical systems. If there were, that would explain a few things. so I take it that you're not familiar with WHEN and WHY the crimp terminal was invented ? Nope. But thanks for the information. WW-2, it was invented to have to keep from SOLDERING all the connections on fighters and bombers So you're saying that they build todays airliners' wiring systems using 1940s technology? During the war, I doubt that they expected those fighters and bombers to have a very long life span. Most of us hope our vehicles( and airliners ) will last longer than that. Gary, I'm not trying to start a fight here, but I do firmly believe that soldered is better than solder-less (even though solder-less is quicker and easier). I never said that solderless was BETTER than soldered. If I have the space, time, and tools available, I'll solder it every time. But your posts seem to imply that soldering is the end-all to terminations, that it is absolutely necessary. It's not..............it's a very good process, when done right, but under the hood of a vehicle, or laying on your back working overhead, sometimes its JUST NOT PRACTICAL..........where crimping IS. I agree, there are times when soldering isn't practical. In those cases I had to replace the entire harness. I'll bet your customers would love that. :0 BTW, I have a Weller butane fired soldering iron that is the cat's meow for 12ga and smaller, where igniting gasoline wouldn't be an issue. Handy as hell. Dave |
#40
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"DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efa5f48_1 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... "Gary Glaenzer" <nobulltrans (AT) mchsi (DOT) com> wrote in message news:uUqKa.20289$Ab2.40896 (AT) sccrnsc01 (DOT) .. "DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efa29e7_1 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... I'd be interested to know where I could get some quick understanding, [a laymans understanding], of the role electricity plays as far as resistence and these low voltages go, and why a butt connector creates too much resistence, how that may affect the voltage capacity and why. a properly installed crimp-typer (read : Crimped with the proper tool) butt-connector or end-connector (spade lug, ring lug) will have negligible resistance it's a non-issue, else the airliners wouldn't be full of them What is "resistence" defined as for our purposes here Gary? Since there is very little current flowing in the TPS circuit, resistance could actually be up to several tens of ohms without being a problem My GM repair manual says that the TPS should be adjusted to read .45 volts + or - .06 volts. OK, that sounds reasonable, I've always used 0.50 as a standard, but whatever the booksays............ Thinking in machinist's terms, thats a pretty relatively small unit of measurement. I'm just using a laymans reasoning here but to my way of thinking then, it wouldn't take much resistence to impede that flow, [of electricity].? as I said above, the amount of current flowing in that circuit is very, very small.....the ECM is supplying 5V to the 'top' of the TPS, 'bottom' is ground potential, and the 'wiper' or variable terminal feeds a voltage back to the ECM since most sensor inputs show a very high (25,000 ohms or greater) 'input impedance', any resistance up to 100 or so ohms anywhere in the TPS feed or return circuit would make very little difference resistance in the GROUND side could conceivably raise the minimum past acceptable levels, however. I do admit however, my logic may not apply to electronics, [voltages, wire sizes, insulation thicknesses, resistence, etc.], and how they work together. So I'd like an understanding of that if someone can give it without too much effort. without trying to sound 'preachy', I'd suggest you find a good text on basic DC circuits and go thru it...........you need to bone up on the basics of voltage, current, and resistance, which will make understanding all your above questions pretty simple. try the public library, 'The Radio Amateur's Handbook', the late 50's to early 70's editions had a really good chapter on 'Basic Electrical Circuits' (the armed forces used this part of the Handbook as basic training material for all radio operators and repairmen during WW-2) |
Hatt
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =-----
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