On May 5, 3:58*pm, "Dunamis via CarKB.com" <u43397@uwe> wrote:
May not make a difference, but just for kicks, Id remove the
serpentine belt and crank the engine cold, and see if you get any
rattle. You never know, sometimes idler bearings, alternators, etc,
make odd noises.

I just did this with my step sons Jimmy, to try and isolate noise.
Didnt help, rod /crank bearing for sure. Off topic, but they only want
1800 bucks for a 4.3 long block!! (Napa and the Zone) Maybe yours wont
be so bad? Ill cross my fingers.

Not a "tick" or "rattle". If you knock on a desk or door with your knuckle,
that's the sound. I spoke with an old timer up in North Ga today that has
been the lead technician at his chevy dealership for forty years. I described
the noise and circumstances in which the noise takes place. He said that his
truck made that exact same noise on cold starts as well. He said his trucked
started doing that @ about 50K miles and now it has 300K and still makes the
noise. HE said oil filters with check valves and radiator oil coolers could
easily cause the problem. He told me that if I wanted to buy an engine he
could gladly sell me one, but he told me that he would hate to see me waste
money on an engine when the engine I have has a knock that is little more
than an annoyance on cold starts. He said use 20 W30 ( thicker oil) and STP
and the noise should go away. HE also recommended marvel mystery oil.

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On May 5, 9:19*pm, "Dunamis via CarKB.com" <u43397@uwe> wrote:
Then thats what Id do. Go with a heavier oil, add a little additive,
and ride it out. Your guy in Ga is describing a pressure problem. Once
the engine has run for a few seconds the pressure builds and the knock
goes away. Just remember, this may be an annoyance, but it "is" a weak
spot in the engine. It may run another 100,000 miles before she blows,
just be carefull not to be drag racing between stoplights and it may
run a long time. Oil pressure is the life of an engine, even for a few
seconds rattle, on a cold start, can be doing damage, may not get you
now, but it will eventually. Change the oil, put in the additive, and
good luck!

MY truck has now started doing the knock on a warm start. I want to replace
my main/crankshaft both while I have a little extra money and before my
engine locks up . How much would you charge someone to do it or how much
would you pay someone to do it? $300.00???

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On May 7, 11:27*pm, "Dunamis via CarKB.com" <u43397@uwe> wrote:
Wow, Im not sure 300 bucks will get the engine pulled. Much depends on
the condition of the crank. If it needs turning (probably will), plus
the cost of a gasket kit, seals, and labor, you are looking at way
more than 300 bucks. Id get estimates from a few mechanics before I
take it in.

If you can do the labor yourself, 300 bucks might get it done. Theres
not that much to a bottom end, make sure each rod/main cap goes back
to the same place, use a litle STP on the new bearings, torque
everything down. Oh...just for kicks, Id replace the oil pump, you
never know, that could be the weak spot that led to bearing
failure...and take the crank to your local parts house have them check
its tolerances, and turn if need be. Then they can match up your
bearings.

...now back when I was a teenager, I replaced my mains/rod bearings in
my old 67 Chevy truck, lying on my back, in the gravel, with the motor
still in the truck. (straight six) Of course these days, there not
that kind of room underneath one....

I checked, I'm looking at about $120.00 for parts, that's new main/crank
shaft bearings, gasket sets, and oil pump. I met a guy that said he would
change out the bearings for $300 labor. I have access to an auto hobby shop
here on base. They have truck lifts , cherry pickers and engine stands. SO I
may try an do it myself. But I'm not sure if I'm up to doing something that
in-depth...

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Dunamis via CarKB.com wrote:
Before you do all that work for all that money, I think you should google
"piston slap." Its really common in lat model GM motors. It happens in new
trucks and GM won't fix it. They say its nothing to worry about and its not
covered under warranty. The point is, if its piston slap, you can do all
kinds of work to it, and the day you start it back up, the rattle will still
be there. Get a professional opinion first. If its a bearing problem, then
you got to work on it.

I know what you guys are gonna say, "this guys is wishyiwashy!" You are right.
I have crate engine in my truck , so I called the manufacturer of the engine
to find out my bearing size so I could replace the bearings. He put it to me
like this. If your knock goes away in just a second or two, not much to worry
about. Now if the knock persists the whole time, you've got an issue. Even
then you'd be throwing good money to bad by working on the engine because if
there is damage done to the metal, it's probably shot metal shaving
throughout the engine that you'll never be able to completely clean out. At
this point I'm going to run some 10w40 and STP and see what happens.

Thanks all for your input!!!

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On May 9, 8:44*am, "Dunamis via CarKB.com" <u43397@uwe> wrote:
Sometimes when you take precautions like heavier oil and additives,
then take it easy on the engine, you can get em to go a good ways
before the problem really bites you on the ass. Really, the cheapest
way to eek out whatever you can get out of it.

Good Luck!