Hello all
I have a 2002 Silverado Z71 1500 HD sportsbed
The questions I have are
I just noticed that my automatic Headlights as well as the switch on
headlights are not working
I tried replacing any fuses (found no bad ones) than the relay
(switched it out with one that was working (no help)
The daytime running lights do work and the Highbeams do work just no
low beams in either mood(auto or manual)
Any Ideas or where to check next? Im thinking the blinker switch on
the steering colum mutli switch (expensive)
Please help if you can

Now the weird problem

<imatoolman (AT) aol (DOT) com> wrote

Greetings,

The DRL's are seperate bulbs on an independent circuit, so that's not much
comfort. Try unplugging the wiring harness from each main bulb in the
headlight pod one at a time and test each light bulb. If you have good
bulbs, then next check the bulb connectors with the dash switch in the
Manual On position. If you have power to each connector, then check the
ground - which is my bet.

If the bulbs are good but you still have no power to each connector, check
the rotary switch on the dash (since you already said you've replaced the
fuses and breakers). The column switch is the least suspect since it
appears to be a main power issue. The only other piece of the puzzle is the
daylight sensor on the dash near the defroster duct, but that shouldn't
cause a complete headlight failure. If that fails, go to the dealer
(sorry).

Cheers - Jonathan

On Nov 4, 10:08?am, "Jonathan" <Fire_Capt... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote:
Thanks Much Jonathan
Will give it a shot as far as the ground just backtrack the ground
wire from each headlight (sounds Right?)
Thanks again
Is there a way to check the dash dimmer switch to see if it pushing
power to headlights (or will I see it at each headlight bulb Correct)?

<imatoolman (AT) aol (DOT) com> wrote

This sounds more like the headlight dimmer switch to me. Its at the bottom
of the steering column with a rod that goes to the MF switch.

On Nov 3, 3:20?pm, "imatool... (AT) aol (DOT) com" <imatool... (AT) aol (DOT) com> wrote:
Hello again So heres the deal (NO Ground to low beams)
I went out with my multimeter in hand today and found that the
headlights have no ground on the lowbeams
now my most logical thought was to just splice in a new ground, so I
figured the highbeam ground was very close so why not use that
(Right?) Wrong I was then suprised to learn that when I spliced into
the high beam ground wire and tried the lowbeams all the headlights
now came on high and low beams .
So I figured that the grounds must run through a relay of some sort at
this point so I disconnected the splice I made and it is back to a no
headlight on low beams.
But here is my question can I just run a new ground wire spliced into
the lowbeam ground wire and ground it to the body of truck (because
lowbeams will work when grounded to the body I tested it and yes they
worked as they should (but I thought the wire I was using got a lil
hot so I did not leave it connected to long).
Or are these headlights designed by GM to be grounded only through a
relay to avoid burnout?
Or can I go ahaed and just use the spliced in ground and use the low
beams safely the way the new ground is?
Thanks again for all who respond

On Nov 4, 1:34?pm, "George" <nos... (AT) invalid (DOT) net> wrote:
Hello again So heres the deal (NO Ground to low beams)
I went out with my multimeter in hand today and found that the
headlights have no ground on the lowbeams
now my most logical thought was to just splice in a new ground, so I
figured the highbeam ground was very close so why not use that
(Right?) Wrong I was then suprised to learn that when I spliced into
the high beam ground wire and tried the lowbeams all the headlights
now came on high and low beams .
So I figured that the grounds must run through a relay of some sort at
this point so I disconnected the splice I made and it is back to a no
headlight on low beams.
But here is my question can I just run a new ground wire spliced into
the lowbeam ground wire and ground it to the body of truck (because
lowbeams will work when grounded to the body I tested it and yes they
worked as they should (but I thought the wire I was using got a lil
hot so I did not leave it connected to long).
Or are these headlights designed by GM to be grounded only through a
relay to avoid burnout?
Or can I go ahaed and just use the spliced in ground and use the low
beams safely the way the new ground is?
Thanks again for all who respond

<imatoolman (AT) aol (DOT) com> wrote

Greetings,

There are two distinct possibilities here - either each set of lights is
grounded independently, or when switching from low beams to high beams it is
actually wired to switch the ground circuit from one set of lights to the
other.

Try this - with a heavy gage wire, install a new dedicated ground from the
low beams to the frame (radiator support should be nearby). If the lights
work properly (in both manual and auto mode) and you can switch between high
and low beams without problem then I'd say your problem is solved. You
probably just have a dirty ground point for your factory low beam wiring
harness. Sorry, but I don't know specifically where it's grounded.

However, if you install a new dedicated ground wire to the low beams and you
now have problems with your high beams that you didn't have before (for
example, both low and high beams on at the same time or unable to switch
between them), then you're going to have to find the relay/switch that
controls the change between the low and high beams as that may now be the
culprit. If I'm not mistaken, the high beam switch is controlled by the
turn signal stalk but is not actually part of it - the stalk just activates
the switch when moved forward or back. If true it will be a little cheaper
to have replaced than the entire stalk.

Good luck - Jonathan

On Nov 5, 12:21?am, "Jonathan" <Fire_Capt... (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote:
Jon
Thanks That sounds exactly like what is happening
I did connect a heavier wire and grounded the low beam to the ground
block on fire wall
the lights work just as they should but as you said the high and low
beams are now on at the same time
I get a amp reading on the low beams of 8.34amps with engine running
(lower with it off )
The ground wire is not heating up and feels fine and the lights (all
lights function as they should including the DRL and the sensor on
dash works too.
The only thing that I noticed is that both the high and low beams now
come on when high beams are clicked on ( A new High Beam Mod Maybe)
I have it wired this way for now and it has been fine so far
Am I playing Russian Roulette with running it this way?
I also think it is just a switch because the high beams do function as
they should I was thinking of replacing the dash dimmer switch on the
drivers side lower corner of the dash to the left of steering wheel
1st because it is cheapest and can be switched out in a matter of
minutes or leave it the way I have it wired for now and take my
chances But the High beams might be too blinding for any oncoming
traffic.
Thanks for the response
Tony