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#1
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#2
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Yep, very special procedure. Step one start engine and drive to the local auto parts place, buy Mobil 1 and a new filter. Step two, drive to store and buy suitable adult beverage. Step three, return home. jack up vehicle and put jackstands under it for safety. Find suitable drain pan, filter wrench and drain plug wrench. Now slide under truck with tools and remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain into the drain pan. Remove filter at this time. Now wipe the filter mount clean and install the new filter with a little oil on the seal. If oil is finished draining re-install the drain plug. Remove jack stands and let vehicle back down to level. Add oil in appropriate amount (5 quarts) then check the oil level to make sure it all went into the pan. Start engine and make sure you have oil pressure. Shut engine off and check oil level, top up if needed (a little over won't hurt). Clean up tools and oil containers. Close hood on truck. Now the next step is up to you. Either 1 call it done and enjoy an adult beverage, or pour used oil into a suitable container and return it to the store you purchased the new oil from. Your choice. "DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efd7ce2_5 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... I've read various posts from time to time recommending this oil here. Can it be run in any engine, even if that engine has been running regular oil for a 100,000 miles or more? If so, is there a procedure for making the switch? Hatt -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =----- |
#3
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#4
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I've read various posts from time to time recommending this oil here. Can it be run in any engine, even if that engine has been running regular oil for a 100,000 miles or more? If so, is there a procedure for making the switch? Hatt |
| -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =----- |
#5
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"DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efd7ce2_5 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... I've read various posts from time to time recommending this oil here. Can it be run in any engine, even if that engine has been running regular oil for a 100,000 miles or more? If so, is there a procedure for making the switch? Hatt Hatt, On a higher mileage engine the Mobil 1 will break a lot of sludge free during the first 1000 miles. I recommend changing to Mobil 1 oil AND filters, run it for 1000 miles, change oil AND filter again, then you're good to go every 3-5k. Doc |
#6
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"DJ Hatt" <djhatt (AT) lycosSPAM (DOT) com> wrote in message news:3efd7ce2_5 (AT) corp (DOT) newsgroups.com... I've read various posts from time to time recommending this oil here. Can it be run in any engine, even if that engine has been running regular oil for a 100,000 miles or more? If so, is there a procedure for making the switch? Hatt Hatt, On a higher mileage engine the Mobil 1 will break a lot of sludge free during the first 1000 miles. I recommend changing to Mobil 1 oil AND filters, run it for 1000 miles, change oil AND filter again, then you're good to go every 3-5k. Doc |
#7
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Hatt, I'll second that, and add a bit. The crud that formed in the engine in 100k can act like stop-leak, sealing small oil leaks as you go. You *may* find "new" oil leaks that you never knew you had, if you switch now. If you find a leak, make sure the bolts around there are torqued to specs, before you change anything. The engine *may*, or may not, need a new gasket or two. If so, the maintenance was needed anyway, really. All told, I think that it's better to switch. The engine should last a lot longer on synthetic. -- Cheers, Red |
#8
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I switched to full synthetic at 80,000 miles on my 94 4.3. I found ONE oil leak that may or may not have been caused by the change to synthetic. I switched over to Mobil 1 at around 95,000 or so, still no leaks, but still no noticeable increase in gas mileage. On Sun, 29 Jun 2003 07:54:54 -0600, red <read (AT) xmission (DOT) com> wrote: Hatt, I'll second that, and add a bit. The crud that formed in the engine in 100k can act like stop-leak, sealing small oil leaks as you go. You *may* find "new" oil leaks that you never knew you had, if you switch now. If you find a leak, make sure the bolts around there are torqued to specs, before you change anything. The engine *may*, or may not, need a new gasket or two. If so, the maintenance was needed anyway, really. All told, I think that it's better to switch. The engine should last a lot longer on synthetic. -- Cheers, Red |
#9
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Yep, very special procedure. |
#10
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"Steve W." wrote: Yep, very special procedure. What about the part where you fish the wrench out of the drain pan, burn your hands on everything hot and wipe freshly splashed, scalding hot oil off your face? My procedure includes these critical steps? Joshua |
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