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#1
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#2
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OK, I have been having the high idle problem for months now, replacing nearly everything related to the TBI system. Thanx to everyone for their input, BTW! Yesterday the idler pulley crapped out while I was hooking up my trailer and it overheated(temp gauge was pegged well over the 260 on the gauge). Nothing I could do to cool it off so I just shut it off. After a couple errands in our other vehicle, I went and got a new idler($17.40 or so), removed the old(plastic) and installed the new(stamped steel), the belt was good so I reused it(though routing was interesting with no diagram(third time was a charm)). Only lost about a quart and a half of coolant. Started it up(same as before, needed the throttle cracked), let it run a bit, then drove it home... NOW, THIS is where it gets interesting... Pulled up in front of my house and something was different...it was idling at 700RPM! Switched it to an AC setting and it went to about 850-900RPM! Went out this morning to start some running and it started first try with no throttle, went to 1000RPM then 1100RPM, then down to 700RPM after it warmed up! Started and shut off 4-5 times with no starting or idle problems(went to 8-900 and dropped right down to 700)! WHAT THE F%&#???? Any ideas on this new tidbit, anyone? Everyone? High underhood temperature could have actually caused a poor electrical |
#3
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Shades wrote: OK, I have been having the high idle problem for months now, replacing nearly everything related to the TBI system. Thanx to everyone for their input, BTW! Yesterday the idler pulley crapped out while I was hooking up my trailer and it overheated(temp gauge was pegged well over the 260 on the gauge). Nothing I could do to cool it off so I just shut it off. After a couple errands in our other vehicle, I went and got a new idler($17.40 or so), removed the old(plastic) and installed the new(stamped steel), the belt was good so I reused it(though routing was interesting with no diagram(third time was a charm)). Only lost about a quart and a half of coolant. Started it up(same as before, needed the throttle cracked), let it run a bit, then drove it home... NOW, THIS is where it gets interesting... Pulled up in front of my house and something was different...it was idling at 700RPM! Switched it to an AC setting and it went to about 850-900RPM! Went out this morning to start some running and it started first try with no throttle, went to 1000RPM then 1100RPM, then down to 700RPM after it warmed up! Started and shut off 4-5 times with no starting or idle problems(went to 8-900 and dropped right down to 700)! WHAT THE F%&#???? Any ideas on this new tidbit, anyone? Everyone? High underhood temperature could have actually caused a poor electrical connection to move ever so slightly & make better contact. Maybe your touching something while replacing your pulley & belt caused a bad connection to become better. |
#4
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OK, I have been having the high idle problem for months now, replacing nearly everything related to the TBI system. Thanx to everyone for their input, BTW! Yesterday the idler pulley crapped out while I was hooking up my trailer and it overheated(temp gauge was pegged well over the 260 on the gauge). Nothing I could do to cool it off so I just shut it off. After a couple errands in our other vehicle, I went and got a new idler($17.40 or so), removed the old(plastic) and installed the new(stamped steel), the belt was good so I reused it(though routing was interesting with no diagram(third time was a charm)). Only lost about a quart and a half of coolant. Started it up(same as before, needed the throttle cracked), let it run a bit, then drove it home... NOW, THIS is where it gets interesting... Pulled up in front of my house and something was different...it was idling at 700RPM! Switched it to an AC setting and it went to about 850-900RPM! Went out this morning to start some running and it started first try with no throttle, went to 1000RPM then 1100RPM, then down to 700RPM after it warmed up! Started and shut off 4-5 times with no starting or idle problems(went to 8-900 and dropped right down to 700)! WHAT THE F%&#???? Any ideas on this new tidbit, anyone? Everyone? |
#5
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Good point! After some further errands this afternoon, it started acting up again(high idle), but not constantly. Really getting puzzled now...I guess I needed more confusion in my life... *sic* "Stephen Young" <sjyoung1 (AT) nospam (DOT) net> wrote in message news eQBf.22$5w1.2 (AT) fe04 (DOT) lga...Shades wrote: OK, I have been having the high idle problem for months now, replacing nearly everything related to the TBI system. Thanx to everyone for their input, BTW! Yesterday the idler pulley crapped out while I was hooking up my trailer and it overheated(temp gauge was pegged well over the 260 on the gauge). Nothing I could do to cool it off so I just shut it off. After a couple errands in our other vehicle, I went and got a new idler($17.40 or so), removed the old(plastic) and installed the new(stamped steel), the belt was good so I reused it(though routing was interesting with no diagram(third time was a charm)). Only lost about a quart and a half of coolant. Started it up(same as before, needed the throttle cracked), let it run a bit, then drove it home... NOW, THIS is where it gets interesting... Pulled up in front of my house and something was different...it was idling at 700RPM! Switched it to an AC setting and it went to about 850-900RPM! Went out this morning to start some running and it started first try with no throttle, went to 1000RPM then 1100RPM, then down to 700RPM after it warmed up! Started and shut off 4-5 times with no starting or idle problems(went to 8-900 and dropped right down to 700)! WHAT THE F%&#???? Any ideas on this new tidbit, anyone? Everyone? High underhood temperature could have actually caused a poor electrical connection to move ever so slightly & make better contact. Maybe your touching something while replacing your pulley & belt caused a bad connection to become better. |
#6
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Greetings, I agree with the possibility that it may be a bad connection(s) that was somehow aided by either the high temps or the work you did. I would suggest checking the connections to the Intake Air Temp sensor and Coolant Temp Sensor (as well as the sensors themselves). A fault in either one could lead the ECM to believe that the motor is much colder than it actually was which could cause it to run at a higher idle. Cheers - Jonathan "Shades" <shades_1970(at)netins(dot)net> wrote in message news:eKadnWewGsHyd0reRVn-qA (AT) rapidnet (DOT) com... Good point! After some further errands this afternoon, it started acting up again(high idle), but not constantly. Really getting puzzled now...I guess I needed more confusion in my life... *sic* "Stephen Young" <sjyoung1 (AT) nospam (DOT) net> wrote in message news eQBf.22$5w1.2 (AT) fe04 (DOT) lga...Shades wrote: OK, I have been having the high idle problem for months now, replacing nearly everything related to the TBI system. Thanx to everyone for their input, BTW! Yesterday the idler pulley crapped out while I was hooking up my trailer and it overheated(temp gauge was pegged well over the 260 on the gauge). Nothing I could do to cool it off so I just shut it off. After a couple errands in our other vehicle, I went and got a new idler($17.40 or so), removed the old(plastic) and installed the new(stamped steel), the belt was good so I reused it(though routing was interesting with no diagram(third time was a charm)). Only lost about a quart and a half of coolant. Started it up(same as before, needed the throttle cracked), let it run a bit, then drove it home... NOW, THIS is where it gets interesting... Pulled up in front of my house and something was different...it was idling at 700RPM! Switched it to an AC setting and it went to about 850-900RPM! Went out this morning to start some running and it started first try with no throttle, went to 1000RPM then 1100RPM, then down to 700RPM after it warmed up! Started and shut off 4-5 times with no starting or idle problems(went to 8-900 and dropped right down to 700)! WHAT THE F%&#???? Any ideas on this new tidbit, anyone? Everyone? High underhood temperature could have actually caused a poor electrical connection to move ever so slightly & make better contact. Maybe your touching something while replacing your pulley & belt caused a bad connection to become better. |
#7
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OK, I have been having the high idle problem for months now, replacing nearly everything related to the TBI system. Thanx to everyone for their input, BTW! ----- |
#8
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OK, I have been having the high idle problem for months now, replacing nearly everything related to the TBI system. Thanx to everyone for their input, BTW! Yesterday the idler pulley crapped out while I was hooking up my trailer and it overheated(temp gauge was pegged well over the 260 on the gauge). Nothing I could do to cool it off so I just shut it off. After a couple errands in our other vehicle, I went and got a new idler($17.40 or so), removed the old(plastic) and installed the new(stamped steel), the belt was good so I reused it(though routing was interesting with no diagram(third time was a charm)). Only lost about a quart and a half of coolant. Started it up(same as before, needed the throttle cracked), let it run a bit, then drove it home... NOW, THIS is where it gets interesting... Pulled up in front of my house and something was different...it was idling at 700RPM! Switched it to an AC setting and it went to about 850-900RPM! Went out this morning to start some running and it started first try with no throttle, went to 1000RPM then 1100RPM, then down to 700RPM after it warmed up! Started and shut off 4-5 times with no starting or idle problems(went to 8-900 and dropped right down to 700)! WHAT THE F%&#???? Any ideas on this new tidbit, anyone? Everyone? |
#9
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On Wed, 25 Jan 2006 12:44:37 -0600, "Shades" shades_1970(at)netins(dot)net> wrote: OK, I have been having the high idle problem for months now, replacing nearly everything related to the TBI system. Thanx to everyone for their input, BTW! Yesterday the idler pulley crapped out while I was hooking up my trailer and it overheated(temp gauge was pegged well over the 260 on the gauge). Nothing I could do to cool it off so I just shut it off. After a couple errands in our other vehicle, I went and got a new idler($17.40 or so), removed the old(plastic) and installed the new(stamped steel), the belt was good so I reused it(though routing was interesting with no diagram(third time was a charm)). Only lost about a quart and a half of coolant. Started it up(same as before, needed the throttle cracked), let it run a bit, then drove it home... NOW, THIS is where it gets interesting... Pulled up in front of my house and something was different...it was idling at 700RPM! Switched it to an AC setting and it went to about 850-900RPM! Went out this morning to start some running and it started first try with no throttle, went to 1000RPM then 1100RPM, then down to 700RPM after it warmed up! Started and shut off 4-5 times with no starting or idle problems(went to 8-900 and dropped right down to 700)! WHAT THE F%&#???? Any ideas on this new tidbit, anyone? Everyone? Idle Air Control Valve ? |
#10
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"Shades" <shades_1970(at)netins(dot)net> wrote in message news:5tednd9RmruXWkreRVn-qA (AT) rapidnet (DOT) com... OK, I have been having the high idle problem for months now, replacing nearly everything related to the TBI system. Thanx to everyone for their input, BTW! ----- Snip. I assume that you changed all the tbi gaskets, including the alum. ring spacer between the top of the tbi, and the bottom of the air cleaner? Forgive me if this has already been brought up. HDS |
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