The check ECS orange light glows every now and then
* After a cold start, I let the car run at idle for about 10 mins
* Sometimes in the highway at around 75mph. Infact, the engine almost
stopped in the highway, and I had to pull over to the shoulder and restart
the engine!!

I experience slow acceleration at low speeds whenever the light glows.

I have the engine fault codes listed below (which I got done thru a
mechanic recently during a pre-purchase inspection):

00525 - O2 sensor(G39)
28-10 - short to B+ - intermittent
00525 - O2 sensor(G39)
29-10 - short to ground - intermittent
00537 - lambda (O2 sensor) regulation
08-10 - Control limit surpassed - intermittent
00555 - O2 (lambda)sensor 2 (G108)
28-10 - short to B+ - intermittent
00555 - O2 (lambda)sensor 2 (G108)
29-10 - short to ground - intermittent
00554 - lambda (O2 sensor) regulation 2
08-10 - Control limit surpassed - intermittent
00689 - leak in intake system
04-10 - Mechanical malfunction - intermittent
00609 - Ignition output 1
30-10 Open or Short to B+ - intermittent
00610 - Ignition output 2
30-10 Open or Short to B+ - intermittent
00611 - Ignition output 3
30-10 Open or Short to B+ - intermittent
00554 - lambda (O2 sensor) regulation
09-10 - Adaptation limit surpassed - intermittent
00537 - lambda (O2 sensor) regulation
09-10 - Adaptation limit surpassed - intermittent
00537 - lambda (O2 sensor) regulation
10-10 - Adaptation limit not reached - intermittent

Could someone please provide pointers as to what I should look for/replace
in my car?

Thanks in advance,
Pradeep

mpradeep wrote:

I had O2 sensop replaced twice in error (by different garages) on my son's
BMW 325.
Finally it turned out to be poor crimping of the harness connector at the
sensor end.
Before you proceed with replaceing the sensor a word of explanation:
The sensor could be tested on the spot or after removal.
The best approach is to use a break out box. I made one and presented it to
the garage that wrongfully replaced the sensor the second time )after being
told it was already replaced). Unplug the harness from the sensor. Find in
the electronic shop nearby a set of matching male and female pins and solder
them in pairs to 4 shor wires. Now restore the connection through this grude
"break out box".
You just gained access to the pins live during operation. After warming the
engine for a while, the engine controller should apply 12V to the heater
(its other end to GND). You can check this by digital multimeter or small
bulb to chassis. Now the voltage across the other two terminals (one
grounded again) should fluctuate around 0.45V. The sensor heater consumes
over 1A initially and then drops to maybe half its original value, when it
reaches operational temperature. To measure it you have to break that
circuit (unplug one wire end) and restore it through an ampermeter. Here is
how to test a sensor. Unplug the harness connector and measure the
resistance between the wires. Identify the pair with less than 10 Ohm
resistance (the heater). Check the harness connector mating connector pins
for GND to one of them and 12 V coming after warming the engine. You have
verified so far the heater operation. You can apply 12 V and GND to the
identified heater wires and check the current without the engine controller
(or engine running). Once it is stabilized you can measure the voltage
across the other two pins. If it is removed and in your hand you can even
exhale against it and see the change in voltage. Electrically the sensor
comprises two parts - heater and actual sensor. They may have two
independent wire pairs (one end grounded in each) or share a grounding wire.
Remenber one heater end is normally grounded. One actual sensor end is
grounded too.
If you end up replacing the sensor - get a generic Bosch sensor say from
German and Swedish and splice it to the connector wires yourself (saving in
the process half the cost). Normally the package comes with lieflet of
instructions and even maybe some crimping ferrules.
Good and luck.
Plamen, Toronto
P.S please let me know of your progress.


" <mpradeep (AT) ku (DOT) edu> wrote