The clamping mechanism on my Thrustmaster Modena 360 just broke. The
small plastic tube that the metal bolt screws into has come away.
Although I bought it several years ago, it's only in the last few weeks
that it has had any serious use.

Looking for a replacement. Durability, especially of the locking
mechanism, is key - when I've driving, the wheel will probably be set up
and removed each day.

Willing to pay up to the price of a G25. Is it the most likely wheel to
last in that price range?


Thanks
--
Derek

My G25 has withstood a lot of use/abuse for 6 to 8 months. It's
working as well as it did the first day.

Pat Dotson
http://www.ultraforcesim.com



On May 13, 11:50 am, DerekBaker <D... (AT) DontBother (DOT) com> wrote:

* pdotson (AT) mindspring (DOT) com:
Thanks. I've ordered one.

--
Derek

On Sun, 13 May 2007 16:50:59 +0100, DerekBaker <Derek (AT) DontBother (DOT) com>
wrote:

If anything, the weakest point is probably the shifter. My shifter
has an intermittent problem shifting into 5th (it gets caught outside
the gate). The clamping mechanism seems pretty robust and the wheel
and pedals look like they'll last a lifetime (not sure about the pots
though). Apart from 5th, I'm very happy with the wheel.

Cheers,
Rod.

I'm very happy with my G25, and thats after using 2 BRD (F1 Sim) wheels
for the last 8 years, they are pretty hard wearing and very well built
(but no FF), so if you want FF go with a G25.

I actually built a small purpose built base for my G25 to make them fit
onto my Race Frame Pro cockpit, and used the Logitech template to
measure and drill the holes so it is permanently clamped in place.

Pictures here:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/petergagg/p26pics.htm

However, if you want to remove and replace the wheel many times, the
clamping mechanism looks up to the job in my view.

8-)

DerekBaker wrote:

Derek,

Not positive how handy this thing is for taking on and off the desk, as it
has more wires to mess with than my MS Sidewinder wheel (because you have
cable to shifter, cable to pedals, USB cable to PC, and finally, cable to
powerbrick. My sidewinder had only 3 wires power, pedals, PC (usb cable).
the clamps work great (much stronger IMHO) than the old Thrustcrappers I
have bought in the past (had the t2, nascar pro, nascar digital pro, then
the MS sidewinder). as long as your desk is not thicker than 3 inches,
doesnt have a LIP on top or bottom of said table within 3 inches of the edge
of the table. I mount mine on a board to my desk under the monitor but far
enough left I can also use my pull out keyboard. when I race I simply turn
my monitor to me at the driving position and then when not racing I dont
have to tear down. BTW if you reboot your PC while the G25 wheel is plugged
in, the wheel turns like 970 degrees each way as it is "detected" so I have
had it take off on the floor and run over my foot and other things!! just
FYI. the little G25 SOB, seems really solid compared to the gambit of
wheels I have played with. IMHO the sidewinder was many times cheaper and
yet was very durable, this one seems even more "meaty".

PS be sure to google this group for great Forcefeedback wheel settings!
Example of turning on return to center spring setting but setting it to 0 or
1 (out of 0-100) so that the game will center the wheel only by natural
caster settings in games. Now, they were more especifically written back
when the Logitech Momo was the popular, but MANY MANY settings are common
for this wheel too, except of course the # of degree you wish the wheel to
turn lock to lock. I set mine to 340 and love it, seems really nice.

and you could go get the profiles for nascar racing 2003/GPL (They work just
fine for rFactor and others BTW) from the logitech wingman peoples website
{not at logitech btw} (I dont have link handy or I would post it)

DerekBaker enlightened us with: