I accidently locked the driver's side door and initiated the Central Locking
System. Well, it took me a while to unlock the driver's side door again.
The passenger side is still locked and now the car won't start. Question:
When the Central Locking System is engaged, will that shut down the entire
system, including starting the car? I have at least the driver's side open,
but am surprised that the car won't start. Secondly, what do I need to do to
disengage the whole system ... this is pain? Thanks for any response in
advance ... BMWFKK

I do not know what you need to bypass the system.

But, if you locked the doors -- central locking system -- then managed to
get a door open, the central locking system still has control of the
ignition system, and it will prevent the car from starting. It this point,
the car thinks it is in the midst of being stolen, and it is protecting
itself.



"BMWFKK" <u29506@uwe> wrote

Please keep in mind this is an 87 we're talking about here. Central
locking isn't tied into the ignition circuit at all in these older
models (not sure it is in the newer models either). My car (an 89
325i) will start reguardless of the locked condition of the doors. My
guess will be a fuse has gone out somewhere in the system. I'll find
my fuse table later and repost as to which one(s) I think it could be.

On Thu, 23 Nov 2006 17:24:47 -0800, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote:

Are you sure the car will start?

Lock the doors using the KEY, then reach in through the window and try
starting it. In this condition, the car will think that it is locked, and
when locked it has no reason to start.

If you lock the doors using the door lock, AFTER the doors are closed, then
the car knows it is occupied and in this condition it will start.

You might be right that the early cars do not have ignition bypass, but my
money is on them having it. And, current cars will have it, I have no doubt
of this. However, the only way to test is to lock the doors from the outside
using the key, then simulate what would happen in the event of a theft
attempt -- the doors will remain locked but a window will be broken out, and
the ignition will be jacked so that the car sees the ignition switch go on.
You create this scenario by lowering the window before locking the door,
then reaching inside (or climbing inside if you want) and using the key to
start the car.



"Psycho" <psycho (AT) tbcia (DOT) net> wrote

In article <rOudnR9nhY2jlfrYnZ2dnUVZ_h-dnZ2d (AT) ez2 (DOT) net>,
Jeff Strickland <crwlr (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote:
Think this is a function of an alarm/immobiliser if fitted. And of course
this is usually integrated with the central locking as regards the remote.

--
*42.7% of statistics are made up. Sorry, that should read 47.2% *

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Starts just fine when double locked from the outside. As Dave
pointed out, if it is fitted with a factory alarm system (available in
87?) then things may change.

On Fri, 24 Nov 2006 06:57:06 -0800, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote:

The owner's manual is of little help ... it has unbelievably only one
paragraph reference Electromechanical Locking System & it discusses how to
engage it & that only the master key can disengage it.

Psycho wrote:
--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/bmw/200611/1

How much info is needed on how to lock and unlock a car? Seriously,
this whole thing is being overthought. If you do not have an alarm in
the car, then the fact that the doors are still locked makes no
difference. If you did have an alarm in the car, the horn/siren would
have gone off by now.

Central locking is on fuse #27 (30A) along with the radio amp
(premium sound), OBC (if equipped) and the interior lights.

Try locking and unlocking the rntire car from the trunk. If you're
unable to unlock the passenger side door with the key (assuming the
key worked before), then the double lock feature is somehow engaged
which means the system still has power (fuse would still be good). The
trunk will operate all of the locks as well as work independent of the
rest. To completely disable the locking system, remove the drivers
(left side US models) side kick panel (where the speaker is next to
your foot) and it's the relay module in the very bottom behind the
plastic plate. Pain to get to but somehow I doubt you'll have to go
this far.

On Sat, 25 Nov 2006 14:09:01 GMT, "BMWFKK via CarKB.com" <u29506@uwe>
wrote:

BMWFKK wrote:
On an '87, I seriously doubt it. The standard antitheft system worked
with the onboard computer only when you entered a code for it. It
didn't prevent the car from being entered. It would only prevent it
from starting. After 3 failed start attempts (using the key, but not
entering the code), it would sound the alarm horn for 30 seconds.

So am I. These two events are either unrelated or purely fortuitous.

It's only a pain if they're related. Generally, when the locks fail,
they simply fail to work electronically, so you need to operate them
manually. They have nothing to do with the car starting or running.
You need to do a separate diagnostic for this.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; done that)

I'm glad to see I'm not totally losing my mind. Just picked up another
89 325i today for my son (his 87 is was totalled by a hit and run
driver). After we transfer things from one car to the other, I think
he'll be even happier...

On 27 Nov 2006 14:32:53 -0800, "E28 Guy©" <88.535is (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote: