87 325es no torque/performance

#11

On Mar 19, 8:54 pm, "Mike G" <met... (AT) lycos (DOT) co.uk> wrote:

Quote:

kiddo... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message

news:1174334415.151714.126890 (AT) n76g2000hsh (DOT) googlegroups.com...

On Mar 19, 2:41 pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d... (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk
wrote:
In article <1174332613.612916.194... (AT) l75g2000hse (DOT) googlegroups.com>,
kiddo... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote:

Have you checked the valve timing?
My thoughts too. It's all too easy to get the belt a notch out on
these
engines.
Thank you for the suggestions so far. Would there not be any other
indicator that the valve timing was off? The car runs great, idles,
and rev's smoothly. Just has nothing there when underload.

What would be your suggestion to fix this issue if it is

the valve timing?

Could depend upon where you bought it. If from a dealer, take it back and
let him sort it. Explain the problem, telling him you suspect the valve
timing is out.
If bought privately, either take it to an independant mechanic, telling him
the same, and would he check and retime it if necessary. Or, buy a Haynes
manual and DIY if you feel competent.
Mike.

Thanks everyone for the reply's. I did buy it privately, so it looks
like my father and I will have a weekend project already. My next
question would be - If I have to redo the valve timing, should I go
ahead and replace the timing belt, since I keep reading that it should
be done every 50k miles or so? As I don't know when if ever it's been
replaced, any other maintance I should preform while I have it this
far torn down?

Thanks again!

#12

On 20 Mar 2007 06:37:45 -0700, kiddo369 (AT) gmail (DOT) com wrote:

Quote:

On Mar 19, 8:54 pm, "Mike G" <met... (AT) lycos (DOT) co.uk> wrote:
kiddo... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message

news:1174334415.151714.126890 (AT) n76g2000hsh (DOT) googlegroups.com...

On Mar 19, 2:41 pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d... (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk
wrote:
In article <1174332613.612916.194... (AT) l75g2000hse (DOT) googlegroups.com>,
kiddo... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote:

Have you checked the valve timing?
My thoughts too. It's all too easy to get the belt a notch out on
these
engines.
Thank you for the suggestions so far. Would there not be any other
indicator that the valve timing was off? The car runs great, idles,
and rev's smoothly. Just has nothing there when underload.

What would be your suggestion to fix this issue if it is

the valve timing?

Could depend upon where you bought it. If from a dealer, take it back and
let him sort it. Explain the problem, telling him you suspect the valve
timing is out.
If bought privately, either take it to an independant mechanic, telling him
the same, and would he check and retime it if necessary. Or, buy a Haynes
manual and DIY if you feel competent.
Mike.

Thanks everyone for the reply's. I did buy it privately, so it looks
like my father and I will have a weekend project already. My next
question would be - If I have to redo the valve timing, should I go
ahead and replace the timing belt, since I keep reading that it should
be done every 50k miles or so? As I don't know when if ever it's been
replaced, any other maintance I should preform while I have it this
far torn down?

Thanks again!

This could actually be the cause of the problem. If it stretches it can jump a
tooth. For the cost of a belt and/or a tensioner (if that lets go it's a new
top half at least as my friend with a Vauxhall/Opel (GM) found out last Summer
£1000 GB Pounds and that was a cheap engine!

I had a Rover with the Honda 2.7 V6 and thought it was a bit sluggish compared
with the old version I had just sold and put it down to the cats but when a
Mondeo out dragged me and the cam sensor needed replacing on stripping the belt
cam drive I found it to be 2 x teeth retarded. On resetting it went like shit
off a shovel ----- Varoooooooom!

Sir Hugh of Bognor

The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.

Intelligence is not knowing the answer but knowing where and how to find it!

Hugh Gundersen
hsg (AT) h-gee (DOT) co.uk
Bognor Regis, W.Sussex, England, UK

#13

<kiddo369 (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:

On Mar 19, 8:54 pm, "Mike G" <met... (AT) lycos (DOT) co.uk> wrote:
kiddo... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message

news:1174334415.151714.126890 (AT) n76g2000hsh (DOT) googlegroups.com...

On Mar 19, 2:41 pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d... (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk
wrote:
In article <1174332613.612916.194... (AT) l75g2000hse (DOT) googlegroups.com>,
kiddo... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote:

Have you checked the valve timing?
My thoughts too. It's all too easy to get the belt a notch out on
these
engines.
Thank you for the suggestions so far. Would there not be any other
indicator that the valve timing was off? The car runs great, idles,
and rev's smoothly. Just has nothing there when underload.

What would be your suggestion to fix this issue if it is

the valve timing?

Could depend upon where you bought it. If from a dealer, take it back and
let him sort it. Explain the problem, telling him you suspect the valve
timing is out.
If bought privately, either take it to an independant mechanic, telling
him
the same, and would he check and retime it if necessary. Or, buy a Haynes
manual and DIY if you feel competent.
Mike.

Thanks everyone for the reply's. I did buy it privately, so it looks
like my father and I will have a weekend project already. My next
question would be - If I have to redo the valve timing, should I go
ahead and replace the timing belt,

A new belt and timing belt tensioner 'should' have been fitted when the head
was replaced.
For your own peace of mind, I'd advise you replace them both. They're not
expensive compared to the cost if either fails.
Mike.

#14

On Mar 20, 7:46 pm, "Mike G" <met... (AT) lycos (DOT) co.uk> wrote:

Quote:

kiddo... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message

news:1174397865.871825.258100 (AT) l77g2000hsb (DOT) googlegroups.com...

On Mar 19, 8:54 pm, "Mike G" <met... (AT) lycos (DOT) co.uk> wrote:
kiddo... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message

news:1174334415.151714.126890 (AT) n76g2000hsh (DOT) googlegroups.com...

On Mar 19, 2:41 pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d... (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk
wrote:
In article <1174332613.612916.194... (AT) l75g2000hse (DOT) googlegroups.com>,
kiddo... (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote:

Have you checked the valve timing?
My thoughts too. It's all too easy to get the belt a notch out on
these
engines.
Thank you for the suggestions so far. Would there not be any other
indicator that the valve timing was off? The car runs great, idles,
and rev's smoothly. Just has nothing there when underload.

What would be your suggestion to fix this issue if it is

the valve timing?

Could depend upon where you bought it. If from a dealer, take it back and
let him sort it. Explain the problem, telling him you suspect the valve
timing is out.
If bought privately, either take it to an independant mechanic, telling
him
the same, and would he check and retime it if necessary. Or, buy a Haynes
manual and DIY if you feel competent.
Mike.

Thanks everyone for the reply's. I did buy it privately, so it looks
like my father and I will have a weekend project already. My next
question would be - If I have to redo the valve timing, should I go
ahead and replace the timing belt,

A new belt and timing belt tensioner 'should' have been fitted when the head
was replaced.
For your own peace of mind, I'd advise you replace them both. They're not
expensive compared to the cost if either fails.
Mike.

Should any major chain auto parts store have these available (probably
special order) at a reasonable price, or is there a good online source
to order from?

#15

<kiddo369 (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message

Quote:

Thanks everyone for the reply's. I did buy it privately, so it looks
like my father and I will have a weekend project already. My next
question would be - If I have to redo the valve timing, should I go
ahead and replace the timing belt,

A new belt and timing belt tensioner 'should' have been fitted when the
head
was replaced.
For your own peace of mind, I'd advise you replace them both. They're not
expensive compared to the cost if either fails.
Mike.

Should any major chain auto parts store have these available (probably
special order) at a reasonable price, or is there a good online source
to order from?

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/
Timing belt £7.25
Tensioner £11.00

Or they're about the same price from :-
http://www.eurocarparts.com/

Personally I'd go for genuine parts. No doubt they'll cost more, but I'd
feel happier because they're such critical parts.

You get the part No's from :-
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/
Then ring your local BMW dealer for a quote.
Mike.

#16

Mike G wrote:

Quote:

kiddo369 (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message

Thanks everyone for the reply's. I did buy it privately, so it looks
like my father and I will have a weekend project already. My next
question would be - If I have to redo the valve timing, should I go
ahead and replace the timing belt,

A new belt and timing belt tensioner 'should' have been fitted when the
head
was replaced.
For your own peace of mind, I'd advise you replace them both. They're
not
expensive compared to the cost if either fails.
Mike.

Should any major chain auto parts store have these available (probably
special order) at a reasonable price, or is there a good online source
to order from?

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/
Timing belt £7.25
Tensioner £11.00

Or they're about the same price from :-
http://www.eurocarparts.com/

Personally I'd go for genuine parts. No doubt they'll cost more, but I'd
feel happier because they're such critical parts.

BMW doesn't actually make timing belts. Continental does. Just buy a
Continental. The caveat is, if the belt has been sitting on the shelf
for 10 years that belt is more likely to break prematurely. I guess try
to find someplace that turns their stock over regularly.

--
-Fred W

#17

"Fred W" <malt_hound (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:

Mike G wrote:

kiddo369 (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message

Thanks everyone for the reply's. I did buy it privately, so it looks
like my father and I will have a weekend project already. My next
question would be - If I have to redo the valve timing, should I go
ahead and replace the timing belt,

A new belt and timing belt tensioner 'should' have been fitted when the
head
was replaced.
For your own peace of mind, I'd advise you replace them both. They're
not
expensive compared to the cost if either fails.
Mike.

Should any major chain auto parts store have these available (probably
special order) at a reasonable price, or is there a good online source
to order from?

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/
Timing belt £7.25
Tensioner £11.00

Or they're about the same price from :-
http://www.eurocarparts.com/

Personally I'd go for genuine parts. No doubt they'll cost more, but I'd
feel happier because they're such critical parts.

BMW doesn't actually make timing belts. Continental does. Just buy a
Continental. The caveat is, if the belt has been sitting on the shelf for
10 years that belt is more likely to break prematurely. I guess try to
find someplace that turns their stock over regularly.

There are many BMW OE parts that are not made by BMW, but I would suggest
it's far easier to buy an OE timing belt from BMW, than look for a specific
make from an auto factor.
Mike.

#18

Mike G wrote:

Quote:

"Fred W" <malt_hound (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:dJydnUGRcImWGJzbnZ2dnUVZ_oGlnZ2d (AT) comcast (DOT) com...

Mike G wrote:

kiddo369 (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message

Thanks everyone for the reply's. I did buy it privately, so it
looks
like my father and I will have a weekend project already. My next
question would be - If I have to redo the valve timing, should I go
ahead and replace the timing belt,

A new belt and timing belt tensioner 'should' have been fitted when
the
head
was replaced.
For your own peace of mind, I'd advise you replace them both.
They're not
expensive compared to the cost if either fails.
Mike.

Should any major chain auto parts store have these available (probably
special order) at a reasonable price, or is there a good online source
to order from?

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/
Timing belt £7.25
Tensioner £11.00

Or they're about the same price from :-
http://www.eurocarparts.com/

Personally I'd go for genuine parts. No doubt they'll cost more, but I'd
feel happier because they're such critical parts.

BMW doesn't actually make timing belts. Continental does. Just buy a
Continental. The caveat is, if the belt has been sitting on the shelf
for 10 years that belt is more likely to break prematurely. I guess
try to find someplace that turns their stock over regularly.

There are many BMW OE parts that are not made by BMW, but I would
suggest it's far easier to buy an OE timing belt from BMW, than look for
a specific make from an auto factor.
Mike.

Oh I know. It's wicked hard. Any of the WorldPac online parts places
tell you the manufacturer of the part. Like this one for example. It
took me less than a minute to find:

http://catalog.worldpac.com/smittys/...rt=Timing+Belt

or

http://tinyurl.com/3aujqc

--
-Fred W

#19

"Fred W" <malt_hound (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:

Mike G wrote:

BMW doesn't actually make timing belts. Continental does. Just buy a
Continental. The caveat is, if the belt has been sitting on the shelf
for 10 years that belt is more likely to break prematurely. I guess try
to find someplace that turns their stock over regularly.

There are many BMW OE parts that are not made by BMW, but I would
suggest it's far easier to buy an OE timing belt from BMW, than look for
a specific make from an auto factor.
Mike.

Oh I know. It's wicked hard. Any of the WorldPac online parts places
tell you the manufacturer of the part. Like this one for example. It
took me less than a minute to find:

Both the OP and myself are in the UK. Things work a little differently over
here.
Unless you ask specifically at an auto factors, you're unlikely to be told
the maker for spares.
I still maintain that the 'easiest' way to get genuine parts is to buy from
a BMW dealer
Mike.

#20

Mike G wrote:

Quote:

"Fred W" <malt_hound (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:HoidnR_wWKSmGZ_bnZ2dnUVZ_oKnnZ2d (AT) comcast (DOT) com...

Mike G wrote:

BMW doesn't actually make timing belts. Continental does. Just buy
a Continental. The caveat is, if the belt has been sitting on the
shelf for 10 years that belt is more likely to break prematurely. I
guess try to find someplace that turns their stock over regularly.

There are many BMW OE parts that are not made by BMW, but I would
suggest it's far easier to buy an OE timing belt from BMW, than look
for a specific make from an auto factor.
Mike.

Oh I know. It's wicked hard. Any of the WorldPac online parts places
tell you the manufacturer of the part. Like this one for example. It
took me less than a minute to find:

Both the OP and myself are in the UK. Things work a little differently
over here.
Unless you ask specifically at an auto factors, you're unlikely to be
told the maker for spares.
I still maintain that the 'easiest' way to get genuine parts is to buy
from a BMW dealer
Mike.

Ah. sorry about that. I normally pick up on that sort of thing from the
conversation. You know, those funny language terms you "blokes" use...
;-)

I guess it sucks to be you guys? Having to pay stealer rates for car
parts on a 1987 would just about do me in...

--
-Fred W

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87 325es no torque/performance

BMW BMW General Discussions (alt.autos.bmw)

Re: 87 325es no torque/performance - 03-20-2007 , 08:37 AM

Re: 87 325es no torque/performance - 03-20-2007 , 09:10 AM

Re: 87 325es no torque/performance - 03-20-2007 , 07:46 PM

Re: 87 325es no torque/performance - 03-21-2007 , 08:32 AM

Re: 87 325es no torque/performance - 03-21-2007 , 01:38 PM

Re: 87 325es no torque/performance - 03-21-2007 , 02:18 PM

Re: 87 325es no torque/performance - 03-21-2007 , 05:14 PM

Re: 87 325es no torque/performance - 03-22-2007 , 08:26 AM

Re: 87 325es no torque/performance - 03-22-2007 , 01:35 PM

Re: 87 325es no torque/performance - 03-22-2007 , 04:53 PM