E30 power windows wiring

#11

"Yvan" <me (AT) privacy (DOT) net> wrote

Quote:

Nedavno Jeff Strickland napisa:

As a practical matter, the question becomes, how often do you really
operate the windows while the engine is OFF? If the answer to that
question is seldom or never, then I would leave well-enough alone. If
the answer is frequently, then you have to search the fuse block for
a hot lead that is active in Position I AND Position II (I can't
think of any power that would come at Position I and go away at II,
but you will want to be sure you didn't find the scenario that I
can't envision) or simply set the key to Position II to run the
windows up or down.

Your key has four positions, O, I, II, and III, where
O is Off,
I is On,
II is Run, and
III is Start.

I did the wiring myself, so I can find the solution how to change it, I
only wanted to know if how I did it is standard on E30, or I have wrong
wiring diagram.

And now I can only operate windows with the key in position II, but it
seemed logical that it should be possible in position I too. That's why
I asked.

I just checked my car (E36), and you are right, the windows should operate
in ON.

I have a manual for my E36, and there are variations for different years. I
would guess that your wiring diagram also has variations, and the window
power might be one of them, and your car is on one side of the variation,
and the diagram you are working from is on the other side.

You seem to have the necessary skill set to use the diagram you have and
test different approaches. Good luck.

#12

Nedavno Jeff Strickland napisa:

Quote:

You seem to have the necessary skill set to use the diagram you have
and test different approaches. Good luck.

Thank you for your time.

--
___ ____
/__/ / \ ** Registrovani korisnik Linuksa #291606 **
/ / \/ /\ \ ** Registered Linux user #291606 **
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#13

Nedavno Jeff Strickland napisa:

Quote:

You seem to have the necessary skill set to use the diagram you have
and test different approaches. Good luck.

Thank you for your time.

--
___ ____
/__/ / \ ** Registrovani korisnik Linuksa #291606 **
/ / \/ /\ \ ** Registered Linux user #291606 **
/__/\____/--\__\ ** http://counter.li.org/ **

#14

In article <20081108070101.7fccb804 (AT) privacy (DOT) net>, Yvan <me (AT) privacy (DOT) net> wrote:

Quote:

I fitted power windows to my '87 E30 from a wrecked car. I followed
wiring diagram I have, and now I can only open or close the windows
while ignition is on.

This is the normal configuration for the E28. I would not be surprised
if it is also the case for the E30.

Quote:

I added fuse #17, but there is +12V (from the unloader relay K5) only
when ignition is ON.

Is this how it is suppose to be? It seems wrong that way to me. I
should be able to operate windows with the key in first position (when
in-dash clock light turns on).

If you don't like it this way, change it! You're going to need to go
into the fuse box and rewire it so fuse 17 gets power from the accessory
buss instead of from the ignition buss. I don't think that should be
a problem although you should be aware that the windows pull a lot of
current.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

#15

In article <20081108070101.7fccb804 (AT) privacy (DOT) net>, Yvan <me (AT) privacy (DOT) net> wrote:

Quote:

I fitted power windows to my '87 E30 from a wrecked car. I followed
wiring diagram I have, and now I can only open or close the windows
while ignition is on.

This is the normal configuration for the E28. I would not be surprised
if it is also the case for the E30.

Quote:

I added fuse #17, but there is +12V (from the unloader relay K5) only
when ignition is ON.

Is this how it is suppose to be? It seems wrong that way to me. I
should be able to operate windows with the key in first position (when
in-dash clock light turns on).

If you don't like it this way, change it! You're going to need to go
into the fuse box and rewire it so fuse 17 gets power from the accessory
buss instead of from the ignition buss. I don't think that should be
a problem although you should be aware that the windows pull a lot of
current.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

#16

"Scott Dorsey" <kludge (AT) panix (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:

In article <20081108070101.7fccb804 (AT) privacy (DOT) net>, Yvan <me (AT) privacy (DOT) net
wrote:
I fitted power windows to my '87 E30 from a wrecked car. I followed
wiring diagram I have, and now I can only open or close the windows
while ignition is on.

This is the normal configuration for the E28. I would not be surprised
if it is also the case for the E30.

I added fuse #17, but there is +12V (from the unloader relay K5) only
when ignition is ON.

Is this how it is suppose to be? It seems wrong that way to me. I
should be able to operate windows with the key in first position (when
in-dash clock light turns on).

If you don't like it this way, change it! You're going to need to go
into the fuse box and rewire it so fuse 17 gets power from the accessory
buss instead of from the ignition buss. I don't think that should be
a problem although you should be aware that the windows pull a lot of
current.
--scott

They won't pull any current when the starter motor is operating, and the
alternator provides more than enough juice to run them otherwise. If you
were meaning to suggest he find a strong enough circuit to hook them too,
the point is well taken ...

#17

"Scott Dorsey" <kludge (AT) panix (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:

In article <20081108070101.7fccb804 (AT) privacy (DOT) net>, Yvan <me (AT) privacy (DOT) net
wrote:
I fitted power windows to my '87 E30 from a wrecked car. I followed
wiring diagram I have, and now I can only open or close the windows
while ignition is on.

This is the normal configuration for the E28. I would not be surprised
if it is also the case for the E30.

I added fuse #17, but there is +12V (from the unloader relay K5) only
when ignition is ON.

Is this how it is suppose to be? It seems wrong that way to me. I
should be able to operate windows with the key in first position (when
in-dash clock light turns on).

If you don't like it this way, change it! You're going to need to go
into the fuse box and rewire it so fuse 17 gets power from the accessory
buss instead of from the ignition buss. I don't think that should be
a problem although you should be aware that the windows pull a lot of
current.
--scott

They won't pull any current when the starter motor is operating, and the
alternator provides more than enough juice to run them otherwise. If you
were meaning to suggest he find a strong enough circuit to hook them too,
the point is well taken ...

#18

Jeff Strickland <crwlr (AT) verizon (DOT) net> wrote:

Quote:

"Scott Dorsey" <kludge (AT) panix (DOT) com> wrote in message

If you don't like it this way, change it! You're going to need to go
into the fuse box and rewire it so fuse 17 gets power from the accessory
buss instead of from the ignition buss. I don't think that should be
a problem although you should be aware that the windows pull a lot of
current.

They won't pull any current when the starter motor is operating, and the
alternator provides more than enough juice to run them otherwise. If you
were meaning to suggest he find a strong enough circuit to hook them too,
the point is well taken ...

EVERYTHING on the accessory buss comes off of C200 off the ignition
switch. On the E28, the whole accessory buss goes to fuses 11 and 12
with a total of 24 amps.

If you add anything else onto the accessory buss by tying fuse 17 to
the lead from the ignition switch as well, you are now pulling
considerably more current through the accessory wafer of the switch.
I don't know how much current it's rated for.

HOWEVER.... pulling the schematic out, it looks like there are actually
two power sources for the window system, one coming off of C100 (and
powered on all the time), and also a control signal coming from the
RUN power buss which closes the power window relay while the car is
running.

If you were to move the lead from the power window relay coil to the
accessory buss instead of the run buss, you could operate the windows
at any time when the vehicle was in run. More than that, you could
jumper the power window relay completely and use the windows at any
time. The only purpose of the window relay is to disable the windows
when the key is not in RUN. However, if you did this, the indicator
lamps on the window buttons would also be on all the time.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

#19

Jeff Strickland <crwlr (AT) verizon (DOT) net> wrote:

Quote:

"Scott Dorsey" <kludge (AT) panix (DOT) com> wrote in message

If you don't like it this way, change it! You're going to need to go
into the fuse box and rewire it so fuse 17 gets power from the accessory
buss instead of from the ignition buss. I don't think that should be
a problem although you should be aware that the windows pull a lot of
current.

They won't pull any current when the starter motor is operating, and the
alternator provides more than enough juice to run them otherwise. If you
were meaning to suggest he find a strong enough circuit to hook them too,
the point is well taken ...

EVERYTHING on the accessory buss comes off of C200 off the ignition
switch. On the E28, the whole accessory buss goes to fuses 11 and 12
with a total of 24 amps.

If you add anything else onto the accessory buss by tying fuse 17 to
the lead from the ignition switch as well, you are now pulling
considerably more current through the accessory wafer of the switch.
I don't know how much current it's rated for.

HOWEVER.... pulling the schematic out, it looks like there are actually
two power sources for the window system, one coming off of C100 (and
powered on all the time), and also a control signal coming from the
RUN power buss which closes the power window relay while the car is
running.

If you were to move the lead from the power window relay coil to the
accessory buss instead of the run buss, you could operate the windows
at any time when the vehicle was in run. More than that, you could
jumper the power window relay completely and use the windows at any
time. The only purpose of the window relay is to disable the windows
when the key is not in RUN. However, if you did this, the indicator
lamps on the window buttons would also be on all the time.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

#20

On Sat, 8 Nov 2008 07:01:01 +0100, Yvan <me (AT) privacy (DOT) net> wrote:

Quote:

I fitted power windows to my '87 E30 from a wrecked car. I followed
wiring diagram I have, and now I can only open or close the windows
while ignition is on.

Correct - no problem although some cars have a delay that allows one to CLOSE a
window when the driver's door is open or within 30 seconds of the ign being
turned off.

Quote:

I added fuse #17, but there is +12V (from the unloader relay K5) only
when ignition is ON.

Is this how it is suppose to be? It seems wrong that way to me. I
should be able to operate windows with the key in first position (when
in-dash clock light turns on).

Depends. My old E3 did, so did the several Nissans I have owned. A couple of
Renaults and a Jag XJ did I think but the newer BMWs don't (don't think so
anyway)

--

Sir Hugh of Bognor

The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.

Intelligence is not knowing the answer but knowing where and how to find it!

Hugh Gundersen
hsg (AT) h-gee (DOT) co.uk
Bognor Regis, W.Sussex, England, UK