![]() | |
![]() |
| | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
#1
| |||
| |||
|
|
I was going to use the cinder blocks along with the jack, in case the jack failed for some reason, which I can't see why they would. Besides, I'm changing the brake pads, not the oil (i.e I won't be underneath the car). I understand the "better safe than sorry" issue, but I don't think it's that big of a risk. I would not use this technique if I had to get under the car. "C.R. Krieger" <warp2_shadow (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote in message news:a8a578a8.0306261151.6a49acdf (AT) posting (DOT) google.com... "Bobby B" <sung7864 (AT) yahooooo (DOT) com> wrote in message news:<W8qdnehTSeJMxGejRTvU2Q (AT) comcast (DOT) com>... As for jack stands, as I wrote, I'm on a tight budget. I may use cinder blocks as a backup in case the jack doesn't hold. DO NOT use 'cinder' (concrete) blocks! You could die. Unless you are intimately familiar with how they can be loaded and what it takes to split one, don't even *think* about propping a car on them. I've seen them crumble instantly when loaded in the wrong way. Even a set of cheap $20 jackstands, properly placed, will easily handle the weight of a BMW. Don't screw around being cheap if it can maim or kill you. I will probably invest in the calipers, although I don't know how to determine if the rotors are in good or bad shape. Calipers are an 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it.' item. Rotors aren't. If the caliper pistons aren't sticking and their rubber boot seals are intact (They're easy to see with the pads out.), the worst you're dealing with is cleaning and lubing the caliper's sliding pins. Check their boots (cheap enough to replace, but maybe hard to find, if you need to), pull out the pins (they're the parts your hex bolts are threaded into from behind the wheel), clean up and inspect them, regrease them, and reassemble. Change the rotors (a no-brainer job) if you're going to. Change your brake fluid if it hasn't been done within the last 2 years. -- C.R. Krieger (Been there; fixed that) |
#2
| |||
| |||
|
|
Jesus if you can not pay for $20 jackstands it is time to sell the BMW. What are you going to do when something more major comes along? Cinder blocks are a really, really bad idea. Greg "Bobby B" <sung7864 (AT) yahooooo (DOT) com> wrote in message news:58SdnbAFMuVp5WajRTvU2Q (AT) comcast (DOT) com... I was going to use the cinder blocks along with the jack, in case the jack failed for some reason, which I can't see why they would. Besides, I'm changing the brake pads, not the oil (i.e I won't be underneath the car). I understand the "better safe than sorry" issue, but I don't think it's that big of a risk. I would not use this technique if I had to get under the car. "C.R. Krieger" <warp2_shadow (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote in message news:a8a578a8.0306261151.6a49acdf (AT) posting (DOT) google.com... "Bobby B" <sung7864 (AT) yahooooo (DOT) com> wrote in message news:<W8qdnehTSeJMxGejRTvU2Q (AT) comcast (DOT) com>... As for jack stands, as I wrote, I'm on a tight budget. I may use cinder blocks as a backup in case the jack doesn't hold. DO NOT use 'cinder' (concrete) blocks! You could die. Unless you are intimately familiar with how they can be loaded and what it takes to split one, don't even *think* about propping a car on them. I've seen them crumble instantly when loaded in the wrong way. Even a set of cheap $20 jackstands, properly placed, will easily handle the weight of a BMW. Don't screw around being cheap if it can maim or kill you. I will probably invest in the calipers, although I don't know how to determine if the rotors are in good or bad shape. Calipers are an 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it.' item. Rotors aren't. If the caliper pistons aren't sticking and their rubber boot seals are intact (They're easy to see with the pads out.), the worst you're dealing with is cleaning and lubing the caliper's sliding pins. Check their boots (cheap enough to replace, but maybe hard to find, if you need to), pull out the pins (they're the parts your hex bolts are threaded into from behind the wheel), clean up and inspect them, regrease them, and reassemble. Change the rotors (a no-brainer job) if you're going to. Change your brake fluid if it hasn't been done within the last 2 years. -- C.R. Krieger (Been there; fixed that) |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |