Hi,

I've seen a very nice C70 for sale with 72,000 miles on the clock and FSH. I
have test driven the car and it does go like a rocket!!!! scarily so!!

I was just wondering if there is anything I should be looking out for,
mechanical or cosmetic etc as there aren't many posts regarding these cars
on this newsgroup.

TIA

Phil

PhilCol (phil.colclough (AT) dsl (DOT) pipex.com) gurgled happily, sounding much
like they were saying :

There's been more than a few posts covering S/V70, though...

Adrian <toomany2cvs (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in
news:Xns96E0D9A4DAAC6adrianachapmanfreeis (AT) 204 (DOT) 153.244.170:

I bought a S70 T5 (same car, different body shape) about six weeks ago.
I'm very happy with it and my general impression so far is that it's a
very good solid car. Make sure the turbocharger and clutch are in good
order as these are the expensive things to repair if they fail. Budget
for a new cambelt as it will be due for replacement at 80k. AFAIK, there
are no other major failure points particular to this vehicle; just look
at the general condition.

I don't know how many miles you do, but bear in mind that they're quite
thirsty and wear out front tyres very quickly. Not a problem for me as my
mileage is very low, but the cost per mile of running one of these cars
is rather high.

If you go for it, remember to treat the turbo with respect; never switch
the engine of abruptly after a fast run. Always let it tick over for a
short period, to let the turbo slow down.

Good luck!

--
Stuart Sharp

"Stu" <nobody (AT) home (DOT) com> wrote


Sorry to be pedantic, but don't you mean cool down rather than slow down?
Mike.

"Mike G" <metier (AT) lycos (DOT) co.uk> wrote in news:433c6f85$0$73619$ed2619ec@ptn-
nntp-reader03.plus.net:

TBH, I'm a bit ignorant when it comes to turbo technology. I don't really
know about the mechanics, just the basic principle of how they work. I
thought that the reason for the idling period was to allow the turbine
shaft to slow before cutting off the bearing lubrication, but I stand
corrected.

In any case, the same good practice applies ;-)

--
Stuart Sharp

"Stu" <nobody (AT) home (DOT) com> wrote

It's because the turbine housing, and the exhaust turbine rotor itself can
get very hot. Even red hot. Hence the heat shields.
Under those circumstances, it's only the flow of cool oil through the
bearings and water cooling of the bearing housings, like that in my Celica
turbo, that keeps the bearings cool enough for the oil to do it's job.
If switched off while the turbo is very hot, heat soak can cause the
bearings to get hot enough to burn the oil remaing in the bearings, so hard
carbon particles are formed. This hopefully gets washed away when
the car is started again, but before it does, it can cause damage to the
bearing surfaces.
At the high speeds a turbo runs at, it doesn't take much before this
treatment causes bearing failure, followed by the break up of the turbine
blades as they start rattling and striking the housing.
I understand some modern turbos don't need to be allowed to cool before
switching off, as even with the ignition off, the oil feed to the turbo
bearings continues for a set period automatically. Similar to the way that
some radiator cooling fans will come on after switching off if the engine is
very hot.
Mike.

PhilCol wrote:
Wheel bearings will be waiting to go (front ones) - replace only with
volvo originals. They tand to last 60 to 100k miles.

Engines are very strong, turbos last ages, clutches too if not abused.
If it's an auto get the fluid changed soon, they don't recommend a
service interval - sealed for life - but other's experience shows that
that represents a 110-150k mile life...

Other than that basic on-schedule servicing with the right oils and
original parts isn't expensive (unless done at main dealer labour
rates) and they are reliable.

Expect some trim rattles to appear.

"Tim S Kemp" <timskemp (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in
news:1128151802.585906.219320 (AT) z14g2000cwz (DOT) googlegroups.com:

Possibly the shocks as well. I'm still unsure about whether my fronts
could do with replacing or not. They're working OK, but the car's
handling doesn't feel as responsive as it could be, despite having a OEM
strut brace fitted. But this may just be because the springs are softer
than I'm used to after years of driving Primeras. The seats are certainly
different - much more comfy, but my arse slides all over the place when
cornering fast :-)
Whilst on the subject, is there any merit in changing the gearbox oil on
a manual? I already know that it uses a synthetic engine oil (5w30?) and
that it's best to stick to the OEM stuff.
centre console is crap - very flimsy and plasticky. I've also noticed
that the front indicators and the fuel flap are insecurely fixed, but in
general the build quality is very good. The doors, for example, close
with very little effort. Just the minor components let the car down on
the quality side.



--
Stuart Sharp

Stu wrote:

Set tyre prssures at the maximum recommended (high speed driving
settings)...


Probably... never thought about it!

Has yours got a remote fuel flap release??? They fail, as does the plastic
hinge mechanism on the flap itself!

--
Join hands and hearts and voices
Voices, hearts and hands
At Kellermans the friendships last long
As the mountains stand

"Tim S Kemp" <news (AT) timkemp (DOT) karoo.co.uk> wrote in
news:Vpidne6wtqA6QqLeRVnyjQ (AT) karoo (DOT) co.uk:

I'll give that a try.
release. I say it's poor because it only latches at the upper corner and
if you dont tuck the fuel cap strap away properly, it forces the bottom
of the flap out. So they fail, eh? Fabulous. Dare I ask how I get it open
once this happy event has occured?



--
Stuart Sharp


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