Is Araldite ok for metal?

#11

"Alex Coleman" <no (AT) no-email (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

Araldite is not recommended for use where it may be subjected to a peel
stress.

Quote:

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

Aluminium to aluminium is the base against which they compare all other
bonds in their data sheets.

Colin Bignell

#12

Alex Coleman wrote:

Quote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?

cos they are better

Quote:

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
metal?

Actaully, is not brimliant for wither. get some 'liquid metal'. That
will work best.

#13

Alex Coleman wrote:

Quote:

On 01 Apr 2007, OG <owen (AT) gwynnefamily (DOT) org.uk> wrote:

"Derek Geldard" <dgg (AT) miniac (DOT) demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:c0sv03tf53vnv5ao6s0976spmv1deh4t9m (AT) 4ax (DOT) com...
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman <no (AT) no-email (DOT) com
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.

It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part
adhesives sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that
is usually coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory
shops?
Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain
a lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey
colour is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal
with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and
about 4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to
moderate stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what
about the metal?
It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under
load the joint may break up.
I use a little less hardener if I think a bit of 'give' is needed.

Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?

Actually it isn't hardener. Its two parts of the glue which have to be
mixed thoroughly and in equal proportions. All that less of one part
does is leave pockets of the other unset.

#14

Duncan Wood wrote:

Quote:

On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 20:42:23 +0100, Alex Coleman <no (AT) no-email (DOT) com> wrote:

On 01 Apr 2007, OG <owen (AT) gwynnefamily (DOT) org.uk> wrote:

"Derek Geldard" <dgg (AT) miniac (DOT) demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:c0sv03tf53vnv5ao6s0976spmv1deh4t9m (AT) 4ax (DOT) com...
On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman <no (AT) no-email (DOT) com
wrote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.

It is OK for metal.

If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part
adhesives sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that
is usually coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory
shops?

Sundry other reasons. If it's what I'm thinking about they contain
a lot of inert filler, it helps filling holes and gaps. The grey
colour is to convince the proles they can fix holes in grey metal
with it.

I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and
about 4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to
moderate stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.

I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what
about the metal?

It's fine on aluminium per-se.

Less so on plastic, and it depends which plastic.

Set araldite is brittle, if the whole assembly will deflect under
load the joint may break up.

I use a little less hardener if I think a bit of 'give' is needed.

Doesn't using less hardener with Araldite slow down the rate of
curing rather than give an incomplete (and therefore more flexible)
cure?

Yes.
No.

#15

I haven't been following this discussion,
but re the title, wasn't Araldite originally developed
for sticking together small jet planes?

IIRC, it was developed at Duxford, south of Cambridge (UK),
which I think was an air base at the time,
perhaps in the 1950s?

--
Timothy Murphy
e-mail (<80k only): tim /at/ birdsnest.maths.tcd.ie
tel: +353-86-2336090, +353-1-2842366
s-mail: School of Mathematics, Trinity College, Dublin 2, Ireland

#16

On 1 Apr, 18:35, Alex Coleman <n... (AT) no-email (DOT) com> wrote:

Quote:

On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.

It's no worse than on anything else.

Araldite is nearly always a poor choice (Araldite Rapid even more so),
except for its easy availability and the convenient tubes. Most uk.d-i-
y readers would do well to spring the ten-fifteen quid for a West
Systems small pack and some suitable filler (cellulose fluff isn't a
bad start, or else microballoons) (all from Axminster). A real low-
viscosity high-quality epoxy is streets ahead of ready-filled tube
epoxies. You can fill it to suit, as necessary.

JB Weld is a steel-powder filled tube epoxy. Much the same applies as
for Araldite vs. West System.

Compared to Araldite though, JB Weld is rather more useful for "heavy"
uses. The numerical strength might not look much better on paper, but
things like creep under load are improved by the filler.

#17

Dave Fawthrop wrote:

Quote:

On Sun, 01 Apr 2007 18:35:22 +0100, Alex Coleman <no (AT) no-email (DOT) com> wrote:

|!On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for metal.
|!
|!If this is so then why would I ever use one of those 2-part adhesives
|!sold specially for metal? I mean the sort of thing that is usually
|!coloured grey and can often be bought in car accessory shops?
|!
|!I need to glue an aluminium ring (about 1.5 inches diameter and about
|!4mm thick) to a plastic base. There will be some light to moderate
|!stressing of this arrangement when it is in use.
|!
|!I figured the Araldite was just fine for the plastic but what about the
|!metal?

Yes! But!
Everything needs to be *real* flat, *real* smooth, and *real* clean, and
not have release agent on it, also both bits need to be rigid. We used to
do it for aircraft components. So if you can do the first two bits within a
few thou (you can measure to 1/10mm can't you), degrease the aluminium and
roughen up the plastic with fine emery and degrease, to get rid any release
agent, get some *new* araldite, then it *may* work, otherwise give up the
idea of araldite.

But wouldn't the aluminium be anodised and epoxy primered first? That's
the way that I remember in the aerospace industry. The paint had a much
higher bond to the metal than the 'Hysol'* had to the paint and the
bond was very impressive.

*Hysol is a variant of Araldite and much better all round. It could be
used as an adhesive when mixed in the two parts, or used as a liquid
shim, when various fillers were added, that removed the need for
accurate flatness / surface conformity.

Dave

#18

Use Loctite Multibond 330, it's a two part aerosol and tube glue.
Absolutely fantastic for most materials with a fast set time and will even
work on slightly greasy surfaces. I've used it on aircraft bits in the
past.

#19

Andy Dingley wrote:

Quote:

On 1 Apr, 18:35, Alex Coleman <n... (AT) no-email (DOT) com> wrote:
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.

It's no worse than on anything else.

Araldite is nearly always a poor choice (Araldite Rapid even more so),
except for its easy availability and the convenient tubes. Most
uk.d-i- y readers would do well to spring the ten-fifteen quid for a
West Systems small pack and some suitable filler (cellulose fluff
isn't a bad start, or else microballoons) (all from Axminster). A
real low- viscosity high-quality epoxy is streets ahead of
ready-filled tube epoxies. You can fill it to suit, as necessary.

JB Weld is a steel-powder filled tube epoxy. Much the same applies as
for Araldite vs. West System.

Compared to Araldite though, JB Weld is rather more useful for "heavy"
uses. The numerical strength might not look much better on paper, but
things like creep under load are improved by the filler.

I've got an aluminium bike frame with a small hole worn in it, when it was
ridden with a tyre rubbing the frame.. (damn kids).

The wear is an elliptical cone about 10x6mm with a 2mm hole in the middle,
on a rear stay of about 18mm diameter. Any guesses as to whether JBWeld
would patch it up firmly enough for mucking about use (no World Cup
Downhills planned...) or should I just scrap the frame?

#20

PC Paul wrote:

Quote:

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 1 Apr, 18:35, Alex Coleman <n... (AT) no-email (DOT) com> wrote:
On my rather old tube of 'regular' Araldite it says it is ok for
metal.
It's no worse than on anything else.

Araldite is nearly always a poor choice (Araldite Rapid even more so),
except for its easy availability and the convenient tubes. Most
uk.d-i- y readers would do well to spring the ten-fifteen quid for a
West Systems small pack and some suitable filler (cellulose fluff
isn't a bad start, or else microballoons) (all from Axminster). A
real low- viscosity high-quality epoxy is streets ahead of
ready-filled tube epoxies. You can fill it to suit, as necessary.

JB Weld is a steel-powder filled tube epoxy. Much the same applies as
for Araldite vs. West System.

Compared to Araldite though, JB Weld is rather more useful for "heavy"
uses. The numerical strength might not look much better on paper, but
things like creep under load are improved by the filler.

I've got an aluminium bike frame with a small hole worn in it, when it was
ridden with a tyre rubbing the frame.. (damn kids).

The wear is an elliptical cone about 10x6mm with a 2mm hole in the middle,
on a rear stay of about 18mm diameter. Any guesses as to whether JBWeld
would patch it up firmly enough for mucking about use (no World Cup
Downhills planned...) or should I just scrap the frame?

Jb weld will patch it,but for strength I'd wrap it with glass fibre

cloth doused in polyester resin..

Quote:

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Is Araldite ok for metal?

Cars Maintenance General car maintenance (uk.rec.cars.maintenance)

Re: Is Araldite ok for metal? - 04-01-2007 , 08:17 PM

Re: Is Araldite ok for metal? - 04-02-2007 , 04:03 AM

Re: Is Araldite ok for metal? - 04-02-2007 , 04:04 AM

Re: Is Araldite ok for metal? - 04-02-2007 , 04:05 AM

Re: Is Araldite ok for metal? - 04-02-2007 , 05:37 AM

Re: Is Araldite ok for metal? - 04-02-2007 , 07:50 AM

Re: Is Araldite ok for metal? - 04-02-2007 , 03:16 PM

Re: Is Araldite ok for metal? - 04-03-2007 , 07:23 AM

Re: Is Araldite ok for metal? - 04-03-2007 , 02:02 PM

Re: Is Araldite ok for metal? - 04-04-2007 , 04:07 AM