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#11
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A new trackrod end will be required - I doubt you'll find the rubber sold separately. |

#12
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They can be bought, but are very hard to find. |
#13
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The one you wanted has a threaded bolt running through it and works like a clamp, pushing the bolt downwards whilst levering up on the hub. The shop had one of those in, but the guy behind the counter said they were fiddly and often slipped off. He recommended the fork and it was a few quid cheaper. Gutted, I would have been more than happy to pay the few quid more if it was the right tool for the job. Live and learn eh? |
#14
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I had a look at the track rod end, it is total seized on and I mean totally seized. Oh well, time to book in at the local garage and hand over the cash. 1 hour labour minimum charge I suspect (£50 + VAT no doubt), 1 track rod end and probably another £20 quid for tracking. Bit of a costly mistake then. Interesting job mind you, but probably cheaper to have gone to the cinema ![]() |
#15
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I had a split outer CV boot, looked like a simple job to replace in the Haynes manual. Purchased a fork shaped balljoint separator tool and set to work. A few hammer blows later, I had a successfully separated track rod from the hub, but I also had a somewhat worse for ware rubber shoe that sat between the balljoint and the hub. At the time I decided not to play around with it too much. Because me poking it gently with a screw driver might cause further damage, where as a ton of car bumping and grinding on it will leave it untouched ![]() I'm guessing there must be 100's of guys like me, hammering the living crap out of this joint on Saturday mornings. Have manufactures made this an easy component to replace? Or do I need to book my car in to get a new shoe pressed into the ball joint (or just a new track rod end)? Regards, Tim |
#16
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sad results that are commom of a balljoint fork. with a ball peen hammer hit the arm on the knuckle where the baaljoint is attached. hit it hard and shock it out of the whole. |
#17
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In article <1179109441.471553.106210 (AT) l77g2000hsb (DOT) googlegroups.com>, DUBINOUT <renegadeautoparts (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote: sad results that are commom of a balljoint fork. with a ball peen hammer hit the arm on the knuckle where the baaljoint is attached. hit it hard and shock it out of the whole. IMHO an urban myth. And whacking steering components is to be avoided anyway. |
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Buy and use the correct puller. |
#18
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IMHO an urban myth. |
#19
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article <1179109441.471553.106210 (AT) l77g2000hsb (DOT) googlegroups.com>, DUBINOUT <renegadeautoparts (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote: sad results that are commom of a balljoint fork. with a ball peen hammer hit the arm on the knuckle where the baaljoint is attached. hit it hard and shock it out of the whole. IMHO an urban myth. And whacking steering components is to be avoided anyway. I've read this so many times, I thought it must just be me that couldn't do it! |
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Buy and use the correct puller. Yep, they are not that expensive and will last if not mistreated. Mine is around 30 years old... |
#20
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The one you wanted has a threaded bolt running through it and works like a clamp, pushing the bolt downwards whilst levering up on the hub. The shop had one of those in, but the guy behind the counter said they were fiddly and often slipped off. He recommended the fork and it was a few quid cheaper. Gutted, I would have been more than happy to pay the few quid more if it was the right tool for the job. Live and learn eh? Aye..we've all been there. |
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