I had a split outer CV boot, looked like a simple job to replace in the
Haynes manual. Purchased a fork shaped balljoint separator tool and set
to work.

A few hammer blows later, I had a successfully separated track rod from
the hub, but I also had a somewhat worse for ware rubber shoe that sat
between the balljoint and the hub.

At the time I decided not to play around with it too much. Because me
poking it gently with a screw driver might cause further damage, where
as a ton of car bumping and grinding on it will leave it untouched

I'm guessing there must be 100's of guys like me, hammering the living
crap out of this joint on Saturday mornings. Have manufactures made
this an easy component to replace? Or do I need to book my car in to
get a new shoe pressed into the ball joint (or just a new track rod end)?

Regards,

Tim

"Tim" <tpb100 (AT) ntlworld (DOT) com> wrote

you cant prevent that with those type of separators, nor can you just buy
the rubber dust cover on its own, the type i use in the workshop is a hinged
one with a screw down bolt that uses pressure rather then beating 10 tons of
shite out of it.

one trick is to whack the actual housing that the ball joint sits in, this
shocks it and it should pop out.

In article <wrB1i.7809$eY1.367 (AT) newsfe2-win (DOT) ntli.net>,
Tim <tpb100 (AT) ntlworld (DOT) com> wrote:
Indeed. A lever type separator is far less likely to damage things as it
needs no sideways movement.

A new trackrod end will be required - I doubt you'll find the rubber sold
separately.

--
*Marathon runners with bad footwear suffer the agony of defeat*

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sun, 13 May 2007 11:17:50 +0100, "reg" <reg (AT) ihatespam (DOT) com> wrote:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...tegoryrn_71556
(watch the wordwrap, may need to copy/paste the URL) will do the job
with less effort and is unlikely to damage the rubbers.
--
asahartz woz ere

On Sun, 13 May 2007 10:35:26 +0000, asahartz wrote:

==================================
Shocking the joint loose is best done with two hammers. Hit opposite sides
of the joint housing simultaneously with the two hammers. A few sharp taps
rather than a big bash seems to work best.

Cic.

--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

"Tim" <tpb100 (AT) ntlworld (DOT) com> wrote

As reg said. It's the wrong type of separator to use unless you intend to
replace the ball joint.
Sometime it will need to be replaced, but there's no great urgency. It'll be
months before any noticeable wear takes place.
Mike.

Tim formulated on Sunday :
Those are more of a last resort tool, certain to damage the joint. I
use one which a little like a G clamp. Hook under the ball joint then
you gently screw a bolt in to apply pressure.

I usually start the operation by slackening the nut a few turns, then
using two hammers - one to act as an anvil, on the sides of the taper.
Often this alone will be enough to break the joint- if not I use the
clamp combined with more tapping with a hammer.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

In article <wrB1i.7809$eY1.367 (AT) newsfe2-win (DOT) ntli.net>, Tim says...
type balljoint splitters are only useful if you plan on binning the
balljoint you're splitting because as you found out, they shaft the
rubber boots.

The one you wanted has a threaded bolt running through it and works
like a clamp, pushing the bolt downwards whilst levering up on the hub.

--
Conor

Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright
until you hear them speak.........

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The shop had one of those in, but the guy behind the counter said they
were fiddly and often slipped off. He recommended the fork and it was a
few quid cheaper. Gutted, I would have been more than happy to pay the
few quid more if it was the right tool for the job.

Live and learn eh?

Regards,

Tim