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Lambda Sensors
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#1
 
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Lambda Sensors -
06-18-2006
, 06:43 AM
#2
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Im fairly new to lambda sensors, just replaced the cat with a low mileage 2nd hand cat, had to use a fair bit of brute force to get the sensors out the engine is a z22se vauxhall 2.2 (fitted to my vx220) after replacing the cat (still using the old sensors) the MIL light comes on after about 10 miles of driving after a ecu reset. I reckon the brute force and a combination of 90k+ miles has put the sensors past their best, question is.... dealer is too expensive theres a site online that does the sensors with proper cables for 60 quid each. or i can get universal ones which require soldering which are 20 quid each. (i dont mind soldering at all) which is the better option (i would say the cheapest one - seems to me im paying 40 quid for connectors - are these sensors basically all the same thing ?) anyone had experience of using the universal ones ? |
must say I haven't seen them cause any issues. I can't see you encountering
any problems, providing it's wired up correctly! Chop the connector about 2"
down from the plug and solder, heat shrink and then tape the connections.
Don't splice into the original loom.
#3
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I've replaced a few lambda sensors with Bosch universal replacements and I must say I haven't seen them cause any issues. I can't see you encountering any problems, providing it's wired up correctly! Chop the connector about 2" down from the plug and solder, heat shrink and then tape the connections. Don't splice into the original loom. |
electrical connectors,
most of the parts seem the same
#4
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Im fairly new to lambda sensors, |
--
Stuart
"end user" v. A command regrettably not implemented in most systems.
#5
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Im fairly new to lambda sensors, just replaced the cat with a low mileage 2nd hand cat, had to use a fair bit of brute force to get the sensors out the engine is a z22se vauxhall 2.2 (fitted to my vx220) after replacing the cat (still using the old sensors) the MIL light comes on after about 10 miles of driving after a ecu reset. I reckon the brute force and a combination of 90k+ miles has put the sensors past their best, question is.... dealer is too expensive theres a site online that does the sensors with proper cables for 60 quid each. or i can get universal ones which require soldering which are 20 quid each. (i dont mind soldering at all) which is the better option (i would say the cheapest one - seems to me im paying 40 quid for connectors - are these sensors basically all the same thing ?) anyone had experience of using the universal ones ? thanks mark I tried an aftermarket (bosch) replacement from the local motor factor when |
worth. No soldering required, just plug and play, but gave the dreaded red
light just after warming the engine through. I ended up paying £10 extra
from the Fiat dealership and no problems. Total cost : £60 + fuel to and
from motor factor and dealership.
My recommendation is to get the original part from vauxhall. Just my
tuppence.
Dan.
#6
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Im fairly new to lambda sensors, just replaced the cat with a low mileage 2nd hand cat, had to use a fair bit of brute force to get the sensors out the engine is a z22se vauxhall 2.2 (fitted to my vx220) after replacing the cat (still using the old sensors) the MIL light comes on after about 10 miles of driving after a ecu reset. I reckon the brute force and a combination of 90k+ miles has put the sensors past their best, question is.... dealer is too expensive theres a site online that does the sensors with proper cables for 60 quid each. or i can get universal ones which require soldering which are 20 quid each. (i dont mind soldering at all) |
usually stainless steel. One side of the sensor sits in the
flow of exhaust gas and the other side is required to "breathe"
the normal atmosphere. It gets access to this air via the
corrosion-proof cable. Don't block it off with solder.
Quote:
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which is the better option (i would say the cheapest one - seems to me im paying 40 quid for connectors - are these sensors basically all the same thing ?) anyone had experience of using the universal ones ? |
John
#7
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Never solder the wires on a lambda sensor, crimp them. They're usually stainless steel. One side of the sensor sits in the flow of exhaust gas and the other side is required to "breathe" the normal atmosphere. It gets access to this air via the corrosion-proof cable. Don't block it off with solder. which is the better option (i would say the cheapest one - seems to me im paying 40 quid for connectors - are these sensors basically all the same thing ?) anyone had experience of using the universal ones ? They work just fine in my experience. John |
mark
#8
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Never solder the wires on a lambda sensor, crimp them. They're usually stainless steel. One side of the sensor sits in the flow of exhaust gas and the other side is required to "breathe" the normal atmosphere. It gets access to this air via the corrosion-proof cable. Don't block it off with solder. which is the better option (i would say the cheapest one - seems to me im paying 40 quid for connectors - are these sensors basically all the same thing ?) anyone had experience of using the universal ones ? They work just fine in my experience. John thanks for the tips mark |
the heater on a 4wired lambda??
#9
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is there a way to work out which wires are for the sensor and which are for the heater on a 4wired lambda?? |
John
#10
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aussie bongo wrote: is there a way to work out which wires are for the sensor and which are for the heater on a 4wired lambda?? http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mcolours1.htm John |
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