I've got a 1979 VW camper which I want to respray. I'm confused about
the types of paint available. I'm told that some types are not
compatible with others. What would the original type of paint be, and
is this best for respraying. Also what type of paint do you usually
get in an aerosol can. Are there likely to be compatibility problems
there?

I'm likely to have to do the job outside.

Can anybody give me names of actual products?

Burlington Bertie (elephantiasis (AT) hotmail (DOT) co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding
much like they were saying :

More to the point, what can you actually buy?

Environmental regs have tightened up a lot lately, and you can't actually
get any of the previous stuff any more, IIRC (or you can, just, but not
after next week or something).

Anyway, most of the old-styley paint was allegedly more likely to kill you
than a half-starved rabid pitbull.

Cheap shit paint.

Not if prepped properly.

Get a brush. Try spraying outside, especially with rattle-cans, and it'll
be shit. Guaranteed.

Dulux. Works for me.

On Sat, 12 May 2007 13:01:48 -0700, Burlington Bertie wrote:

Brush painting for an older vehicle especially if you have to work outside
is quite a good idea. Two paints that were commonly available about the
time your camper was built are 'Berger' and 'Tekaloid'. Both produced
excellent results with a deep solid colour without much practice or skill
needed. You'll have to ask around for sources but I'm pretty sure they're
still available. One to avoid (maybe dead and gone) is 'Brushing Belco'.

Cic.

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Adrian <toomany2cvs (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote:

Nah.

This:

<http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Matt-Military-...een-All-Colour
s_W0QQitemZ6035992920>

Is what he needs.

I'm *very* tempted to get some to slap on the Hongdou.
--
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www.italiancar.co.uk - Honda VFR800 - Hongdou GY200 - Alfa 75 TSpark
Alfa 156 TSpark - B6 Passat 2.0TDI SE - COSOC KOTL
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In message <1179000108.050601.4170 (AT) n59g2000hsh (DOT) googlegroups.com>
Burlington Bertie <elephantiasis (AT) hotmail (DOT) co.uk> wrote:

The VW camper could have been sprayed in any combination of paints in
1979, twin-pack, cellulose, acrylic but not water based paints as it
was too early.
If the paintwork is in original condition you can paint almost any paint
over the top.

Question is though do you want to spray or use a brush?

Contrary to reports you can still buy cellulose and twin-pack paints
(if you know where to look) but these need to be sprayed, or you can use
a brushing synthetic better known as coach paint.

Compatibility problems only occur when you use cellulose over synthetic
or apply solvent based paint over very recently painted paint as this
can cause solvent reactions.

Or you could use an isolating paint or a barrier coat first then you can
paint over any paint even synthetic with any paint.

You can get any paint put in an areosol but you'll never get a decent
finish with it.

You'll find some info on my website.

Stephen.


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Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
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SteveH (steve (AT) italiancar (DOT) co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they
were saying :

Hmmm. And they do "Pink Panther", too...

The 4x4 needs painting.

"Burlington Bertie" <elephantiasis (AT) hotmail (DOT) co.uk> wrote

Stephen's post is on the money with what's likely to be on it. It's a VW
camper, so it's liable to be rusty, so you need to decided if you're going
to do a lash up or do it properly and bare metal all the rust.

Aerosol can paint is shite, often synthetic enamel, which IMO is a
nightmare, cellulose is apparently OK, 2 pack is very good, but also very
poisonous. It's getting difficult to get cellulose now - less and less
places are mixing it as it's only for use on classic restos now. Single
stage 2 pack (ie, you spray it, it's glossy, it's the top coat) is
relatively easy to get in commercial flavours. Clear and base 2 pack is less
so. Water based base coats and 2k lacquers are what it's moving towards, and
pretty much all you'll be able to get from an auto paint factors by the end
of the year.

I've just sprayed my car with u-poxy 2 pack acid etch primer - very nasty
stuff, needs to be sprayed, phosphoric acid content, so you need an air fed
mask. Then I used Lechler's filler primer, again 2 pack, this time with
isocyanates, so you need an air fed mask. I then top coated with a Spies
Hecker 2 pack single stage, again with isocyanate content and the need for
an air fed mask. I used a Devilbiss gun (not cheap), a 3 phase compressor
(not cheap), and a 1 phase compressor to run my mask.

All in all, it's pretty much done, just waiting for me to polish it and
reassemble it. 8 months after I took it to pieces. Pretty much every free
weekend was spent sanding the car for that period, often with a couple of
mates helping. It's a *very* labour intensive job to get right, particularly
if you've not done much spraying before and have to make rectifications. I'm
now pretty happy with the car, and have a couple of small dings in one of
the doors that I obviously didn't check over closely enough when I was
prepping it.

I also used fairly fast thinners and hardeners, so the car was dust proof
within a few minutes of spraying. It still managed to pick up a fair amount
of shite despite being sprayed a tent within a shed which I cleaned
fastidiously before spraying.

IMO spraying outside is an absolute no hope. You can expect to spend at
least £15 a litre for 2 pack paint, plus hardeners and thinners, adding up
to around £150 for five litres of paint + all the bobbins. If I were you I'd
lash over the thing in whatever colour cellulose I could get cheap with a
brush (say 5 litres off ebay), and hope it keeps the rust at bay for a
while, sanding with P1500 and using rubbing compound if finish matters. The
only way to do a proper job on something like a camper would be to strip it
completely and you're talking several months work and a grand's worth of kit
and consumables to spray.

And as you may have picked up from this post, I don't think it's a good idea
to use synthetic paint. It's very cheap, but it has very specific demands
for recoating times, and fairly long drying times. These are typically
"within a couple of days, or a year later". Get it wrong and the whole lot
wrinkles. And apparently you can't sand and polish it. Get a run and it'll
be soft for months.

Thanks folks for your helpful comments. Eventually I will get around
to doing the main body work so I'm trying to decide what to use. For
now I need to do the fibreglass roof and I had been thinking of
rolling on some Tekaloid.

I had a camper which I sprayed in cellulose, including the roof, about
10 years ago. It was a lousy finish as I gave myself about 6 weeks to
complete it before going on holiday, and I'd never used a spray gun
before and never since, but discussion elsewhere suggests it's not
that hard if I use the right materials and give it enough time.

If I go to an auto paint supplier then and I don't want two pack
paint, am I right in saying that the choices are between cellulose and
acrylic paint? Is acrylic synthetic paint? If cellulose is phased out
can I use acrylic over the top. I'm told that you can't spray
cellulose over acrylic but I guess that's not going to be a problem in
future.

In message <1179131561.872442.223700 (AT) p77g2000hsh (DOT) googlegroups.com>
Burlington Bertie <elephantiasis (AT) hotmail (DOT) co.uk> wrote:

IMO the choice is between cellulose (where available) and Synthetic.
Two-pack is not for home use, Acrylic is very similar to cellulose.

You can paint over cellulose with acrylic and vice versa providing the
original paint is old and if the new paint is applied dryish initially,
however applying a barrier coat is recommended to avoid solvent
reaction.

You CANNOT apply cellulose over synthetic but you CAN apply synthetic
over cellulose.

Stephen.



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Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce