 | |
Wonky eletricss
Cars Maintenance General car maintenance (uk.rec.cars.maintenance)
 |
| | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
#11
 
| |||
| |||
|
Re: Wonky eletricss -
11-08-2005
, 06:29 PM
|
Thanks for the info It happens almost all the time. The two motors that move the locks on the back doors are stuck, the two at the front I had to flood with oil to get working. I guess this was a bad batch of motors. Can you give me some clues on how to check the electrics on this, I've never worked with electrics before. How can I check in the kick pannels Thanks! How do I check the control unit "John" <bravo6 (AT) gofree (DOT) indigo.ie> wrote in message news:dkop91$giq$1 (AT) reader01 (DOT) news.esat.net... Usually the easiest way is to find the central door locking control unit. Depending on how it's wired, you should be able to check all circuits with a multimeter to see which one is causing the problem. There is a slim chance that the module is faulty, but usually when they fail, they just don't work. Most systems have all the switch wires go direct to the control unit so it's easy to check, but some use splices further along the loom and only have one lock and one unlock wire so can't be checked. I've never worked on Metro locking so I don't know what way it's wired, but knowing Leyland it's probably the latter. Is it doing this all the time, do you have to remove the fuse to use the car? If you can't check at the control unit you should be able to check the two front doors in the kick panels, should be easier than taking off the door panels. John "Rope" <.> wrote Yikes... I guess that means I have to take all the doors apart, as there are no wires that I can see that are damaged. If there are any tips on how to do this, I'd appreciate them. Thanks! "John" <bravo6 (AT) gofree (DOT) indigo.ie> wrote in message news:dkgmv7$u84$1 (AT) reader01 (DOT) news.esat.net... Some locking systems lock the doors when you reconnect the battery, but that's it they'll be ok after that. What I've told you is allmost certainly the problem, but you'll have to isolate where the close signal is coming from. JOhn "Garland" <.> wrote in message news:6rydnUXDBK6XvfbenZ2dnUVZ8qidnZ2d (AT) pipex (DOT) net... I'll check the tailgate, but I haven't noticed anything there, and there are no wired or anything sticking out, its all protected behind a cover. I can't imagine that this would be a problem, all the wiring being behind covers for all the locks, but i'll try to see. Could it be that the battery was disconnected then connected again..? Thanks "John" <bravo6 (AT) gofree (DOT) indigo.ie> wrote in message news:dkeekv$6sr$1 (AT) reader01 (DOT) news.esat.net... Does the car usually lock from the tailgate. The problem could be there either. See if there's any damage to the wiring from the body to the tailgate. There are to signal wires for lock and unlock. If the lock wire goes to ground anywhere it continously lock the doors. "Garland" <.> wrote in message news:GYqdnablk9wFV_TeRVnyrg (AT) pipex (DOT) net... How can I tell which one is faulty, they are very difficult to get to. Recenty the battery was disconnected, could this be the problem? "John" <bravo6 (AT) gofree (DOT) indigo.ie> wrote in message news:dkbdmc$76p$1 (AT) reader01 (DOT) news.esat.net... Look and see which door doesn't unlock. If the motor part of either front door doesn't unlock then the switch on the motor is still in the lock position and it will relock all doors. John "Garland" <.> wrote in message news:7rSdneNlsdtRafXenZ2dnUVZ8qKdnZ2d (AT) pipex (DOT) net... My Rover Metro 96 has suddenly gone a bit crazy. When I unlock the central locking system, it immediately locks again. The last time I had this problem, was when I put WD40 oil in the door lock motors. The same thing. But I haven't done that, and now the locks are re-locking. Any clues appreciated. Thanks |
#12
| |||
| |||
|
|
It's a bit complicated to explain if you don't already have basic electrical testing knowledge. There's a switch fitted in the two front doors that signals the module to lock or unlock all the doors, boot and filler cap (if fitted). If the two back motors are seized then the front ones are probably knackered too. A scrappy won't bother taking something like motors out, you'd have to take the whole door. Looks like you'll just have to do without locking, no easy solution unfortunatly. You can buy a four motor locking kit for about 40 or 50 quid but you need a bit of diy skill to fit it. John "Rope" <.> wrote Thanks for the info It happens almost all the time. The two motors that move the locks on the back doors are stuck, the two at the front I had to flood with oil to get working. I guess this was a bad batch of motors. Can you give me some clues on how to check the electrics on this, I've never worked with electrics before. How can I check in the kick pannels Thanks! How do I check the control unit "John" <bravo6 (AT) gofree (DOT) indigo.ie> wrote in message news:dkop91$giq$1 (AT) reader01 (DOT) news.esat.net... Usually the easiest way is to find the central door locking control unit. Depending on how it's wired, you should be able to check all circuits with a multimeter to see which one is causing the problem. There is a slim chance that the module is faulty, but usually when they fail, they just don't work. Most systems have all the switch wires go direct to the control unit so it's easy to check, but some use splices further along the loom and only have one lock and one unlock wire so can't be checked. I've never worked on Metro locking so I don't know what way it's wired, but knowing Leyland it's probably the latter. Is it doing this all the time, do you have to remove the fuse to use the car? If you can't check at the control unit you should be able to check the two front doors in the kick panels, should be easier than taking off the door panels. John "Rope" <.> wrote Yikes... I guess that means I have to take all the doors apart, as there are no wires that I can see that are damaged. If there are any tips on how to do this, I'd appreciate them. Thanks! "John" <bravo6 (AT) gofree (DOT) indigo.ie> wrote in message news:dkgmv7$u84$1 (AT) reader01 (DOT) news.esat.net... Some locking systems lock the doors when you reconnect the battery, but that's it they'll be ok after that. What I've told you is allmost certainly the problem, but you'll have to isolate where the close signal is coming from. JOhn "Garland" <.> wrote in message news:6rydnUXDBK6XvfbenZ2dnUVZ8qidnZ2d (AT) pipex (DOT) net... I'll check the tailgate, but I haven't noticed anything there, and there are no wired or anything sticking out, its all protected behind a cover. I can't imagine that this would be a problem, all the wiring being behind covers for all the locks, but i'll try to see. Could it be that the battery was disconnected then connected again..? Thanks "John" <bravo6 (AT) gofree (DOT) indigo.ie> wrote in message news:dkeekv$6sr$1 (AT) reader01 (DOT) news.esat.net... Does the car usually lock from the tailgate. The problem could be there either. See if there's any damage to the wiring from the body to the tailgate. There are to signal wires for lock and unlock. If the lock wire goes to ground anywhere it continously lock the doors. "Garland" <.> wrote in message news:GYqdnablk9wFV_TeRVnyrg (AT) pipex (DOT) net... How can I tell which one is faulty, they are very difficult to get to. Recenty the battery was disconnected, could this be the problem? "John" <bravo6 (AT) gofree (DOT) indigo.ie> wrote in message news:dkbdmc$76p$1 (AT) reader01 (DOT) news.esat.net... Look and see which door doesn't unlock. If the motor part of either front door doesn't unlock then the switch on the motor is still in the lock position and it will relock all doors. John "Garland" <.> wrote in message news:7rSdneNlsdtRafXenZ2dnUVZ8qKdnZ2d (AT) pipex (DOT) net... My Rover Metro 96 has suddenly gone a bit crazy. When I unlock the central locking system, it immediately locks again. The last time I had this problem, was when I put WD40 oil in the door lock motors. The same thing. But I haven't done that, and now the locks are re-locking. Any clues appreciated. Thanks |
|
« Previous Thread
|
Next Thread »
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
Linear Mode
| |
Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.