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#1
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#2
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Got the rangie idling nice on LPG. Got it idling better on petrol (for the odd time I need it). Got the new air filter cone fitted away from where it might short the coil, and in a colder spot (in the spare battery tray) using one of them cheap tin foil corrugated "ducting" pipes. Got the top tailgate bottom seal properly reattached with contact adhesive (removed it, cleaned off all the previous attempts worth of glue, gunk, silicon and filler first) so quieter and less rattly now. Got the cheap VR3 headunit I fitted to accept the bluetooth connection from my phone. Works great for £100 and I can play tunes from my phone memory card through Bluetooth through the speakers. I don't normally get this kind of luck. Just need to sort out a fuel gauge for the LPG now. I could hookup the LEDs on the switch, but then it is out of line of site. |
#3
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LPG fuel gauges are nearly always hopeless anyway. I always used the trip meter along with keeping an eye on the LEDs. The trip was more accurate most of the time. The LPG LEDs are as accurate in mine as the trip meter. Neither work. |
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Well done with the rest though, I should have mine in the next few days. Will have to pay a visit to Rik and get the turbo balance pipe welded up. You are going to have so much fun with that car. |
#4
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Just need to sort out a fuel gauge for the LPG now. I could hookup the LEDs on the switch, but then it is out of line of site. |
#5
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At a guess, the most accurate method you're going to get for the LPG is the temp gradient on the tank... If you're halfway competent with electronics it should be doable to have at the very least a warning light. It is just a resistance feed, so I just need to see what full is, get a |
#6
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In article <463f6b91$0$10720$db0fefd9 (AT) news (DOT) zen.co.uk>, mrdoki (AT) gmail (DOT) com says... At a guess, the most accurate method you're going to get for the LPG is the temp gradient on the tank... If you're halfway competent with electronics it should be doable to have at the very least a warning light. It is just a resistance feed, so I just need to see what full is, get a gauge with that as the full measure. Normally they tend to follow several standards, 0-90 Ohm, 80-240 Ohm etc. Just need to get a decent multimeter that can measure below 100 Ohms (just in case) and I will be sorted. It's all starting to come together nicely now isn't it? |
#7
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#8
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In article <463f6b91$0$10720$db0fefd9 (AT) news (DOT) zen.co.uk>, mrdoki (AT) gmail (DOT) com says... At a guess, the most accurate method you're going to get for the LPG is the temp gradient on the tank... If you're halfway competent with electronics it should be doable to have at the very least a warning light. It is just a resistance feed, so I just need to see what full is, get a gauge with that as the full measure. Normally they tend to follow several standards, 0-90 Ohm, 80-240 Ohm etc. Just need to get a decent multimeter that can measure below 100 Ohms (just in case) and I will be sorted. |
#9
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Got the rangie idling nice on LPG. |
#10
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In article <MPG.20a98a0ded91157898984f (AT) news (DOT) individual.net>, Elder says... In article <463f6b91$0$10720$db0fefd9 (AT) news (DOT) zen.co.uk>, mrdoki (AT) gmail (DOT) com says... At a guess, the most accurate method you're going to get for the LPG is the temp gradient on the tank... If you're halfway competent with electronics it should be doable to have at the very least a warning light. It is just a resistance feed, so I just need to see what full is, get a gauge with that as the full measure. Normally they tend to follow several standards, 0-90 Ohm, 80-240 Ohm etc. Just need to get a decent multimeter that can measure below 100 Ohms (just in case) and I will be sorted. It's all starting to come together nicely now isn't it? Oh yes. I still don't know if I'll keep it, but it will be more |
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