Insurance for my GTi-R just increased by 800quid, so until I decide what to
do with it, I've just bought a 1996 Saab 9000 turbo. Anyone got any
experience of tweaking a little more power from these? I notice it has a
recirculating dump-valve, but no intercooler so assume the boost level is
quite low. What boost do these run standard and what is a safe increase, if
any?

Cheers,
Aaron.

"Aaron Anderson" <aaron (AT) aaand (DOT) freeserve.co.uk> wrote

I dunno if there's a cheap way with those, it's all fancy electronics..with
the old C900 you could just tweak the pots on the APC...

It won't have an intercooler if its a 92-96 'ecopower' LPT. Missing boost
gauge? Then it's an LPT

I think you can get something called a trionic kit to get more boost and the
200-220 bhp of the 'full blown' turbo's. Goes without saying you need an
intercooler with that...

BTW standard boost pressure on the 2.0 LPT is 0.48bar

"Aaron Anderson" <aaron (AT) aaand (DOT) freeserve.co.uk> wrote

How much do you want to spend? I'm assuming not much (although for
around 7 grand I can sort you out with 440bhp from a 2.3 FPT).

If its the 2.0/2.3 LPT with no intercooler easiest thing to do is to
pop down the scrappy and pull the intercooler and piping from a
FPT/AERO. Its and easy swap and should be the first thing you do.
Becuase of the way Trionic works it is possible to bodge an MBC in
without risking the lump providing that you don't go too silly, stick
to around 0.9bar and run Super U, if detonation does begin to occur
Trionic has the ability to retard timing on a per cyl basis to avoid
any melted internals. That should give you around 185bhp for a 2.0 or
200bhp for the 2.3.

Next stage would be to get a Maptun ECU on the go (they also supply an
MBC with the stage 1 kit). This will give you around 225bhp from the
2.0 and 245bhp from the 2.3.

If you give me a rough idea of what you want to spend I can tell you
what powers possible safely.

Cheers
Matt **-**

"Matt" <m.faulks (AT) btinternet (DOT) com> wrote


Thanks for the info,

I know next to nothing about Saabs, but it's a nice, well looked after car
and drives well so I bought it. It is the LPT Ecopower version and has
135,000miles on the clock by the way.
Was the turbo physically the same on all the 9000 turbos? If i add an
intercooler, can I then run the same boost as the higher performance 2.0
models without further mods? I had hoped i could fit the HKS electronic
boost controller from the GTi-R too - I used it to up the boost from
~0.65bar to 1bar, and it has two programmable boost settings.

I intend to add an intercooler anyway - I have a spare one for my GTi-R but
it may be too big to fit the Saab and I thought of replacing the standard
recirc dump valve with a metal one as it looks plastic? Is it worth changing
the standard airbox to a 'performance' filter?
I have made my own front-mounted intercooler conversion for the GTi-R and
done a couple of engine transplants on other cars, so can knock something up
when needed and basically I wanted to use as many of the parts I already
have to give the Saab a little more power without having to resort to
actually spending anything!

Cheers for the help,
Aaron.

"Matt" <m.faulks (AT) btinternet (DOT) com> wrote


<snip saab stuff>

Now, a completely seperate question that has nothing to do with this thread,
how much would a foot square piece of carbon fibre be ?

--
Dan

In article <bj5gqf$kc3$1 (AT) news8 (DOT) svr.pol.co.uk>,
aaron (AT) aaand (DOT) freeserve.co.uk says...

Have a look on http://www.saabscene.co.uk or http://www.saabcentral.com

Both have active forums, and lots of yummy tuning/modding advice.

Yes the recirc dump valve is plastic. Standard Bosch as fitted to
numerous VWs as well. About £30 to replace, or about £80+ if you want to
go for an Alloy one such as a Bailey rebuildable recirc like I did with
the 900. Atmo dumps aren't recommended for Saabs because of the air
metering/mixture issues. But some people have made them work. If you
want a nice Tssssch sound, maybe one of the hybrid dumps like the GFB
models (mainly sold in Aus) might be good for you, and some guys have
started bringing in/selling something like that here.

It works by having one part of the DV blow off at low pressure like
throttling off, but when the dumped pressure goes about certain level it
is bypassed and recirced back to the turbo inlet. And you can adjust the
ratio of Atmo(noise): recirc too, by twisting a knob on the valve.
--
The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.
http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

<SNIP>
Nope, the big boys (Aero's) had Mitsi TD04's, As did late 2.3
Carlssons, some early Carlssons had T3's, most Ecopowers ended up with
T25's or possibly TE05's.

The T25 thats more than likely on yours will do for 1bar+ so I'd stick
with that TBH


You could and it wouldn't hurt but at 1bar get it on the rollers to
make sure its fueling right. Only thing that kills Saab engines is
running lean also depending on year (IIRC) you might only have a 1bar
map sensor in there so robbing a 2bar one from a later Carlsson might
be an idea (don't think the Aero one will work as its a later
incarnation of Trionic)


Drop and ITG or K&N element in that'll be fine. Standard dumpvalve is
the same as the standard fitment porsche turbo ones and indeed any
standard turbo'd car on the market today will have the same valve,
nowt wrong with it, only change in when its broke.


LOL, TBH if you fancy spending a weekend trying to bodge an
intercooler on, more power to ya LOL. Its prob gonna cost you 50quid
for an intercooler and pipes from a later 9000 that will fit easily,
properly and with minimal fuss, thats gotta be worth 50quid ;-), and
the standard 9K cooler is a good bit of kit, just ask all the 200SX
owners who have em.

Matt

"Dan405" <me (AT) privacy (DOT) net> wrote

Thickness, layers, do you want pure CF or a CF reinforced product?