The engine turns over but it acts like there is no gas or spark and
the instrument panel is not lit up. When the key is turned to the
"ON" position the only thing that lights up is the radio and AC/fan
controls. None of the guages or "idiot lights" come on.

The less then adequate Haynes manual says that the PCM controls the
instrument panel but does not state how to test it for DC volts to the
PCM or if there are any fuses, fuselinks, or circuit breakers. The
PCM is static or ESD sensitive but, here in Florida, it has been hot
with extremely high humidity and the car’s AC is not working. The
Haynes manual does state that replacing the PCM with a new one
requires you to take it to a GM dealer so they can load it with the
operating information and alarm codes.

I did have one of the guys at Auto Zone hook up a code reader to it
the week before to find an ignition problem. The number 4 spark plug
was faulty.

Anyone have any experience in resolving this problem?

Thanks,

Bill

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"Bill" wrote:
Do you hear the fuel pump running when the key is set to on?

"Mondo" wrote:
Mondo,

Thanks for the reply. I had someone suggest the Passlock/anti-theft
device in the ignition circuit. So last night I sprayed some WD-40 in
the keyhole, bumped the switch a couple of times, put the keys in the
switch and jiggled around some and then the idiot lights came on. I
turned the keys and the car started. So far it has been working ever
since.

Tempermental cars.

Thanks again.

Bill

Ignition switch is bad, if the Passlock was bad you would still have had
idiot lights with the crank no start condition.
It will act up again.
--
John
"anything you say can & will be misquoted & used against you"
'01 FLHR ''Red"
'04 MXZ 600ho
'99 XC700
BRC mem
"Bill" <DoNotEmail (AT) AutoForumz (DOT) com> wrote

Bill
I have a 2000 Malibu V6, which had started some weird behavior.
The fuel gage and temp indicator wouldn't work after starting the car, as
well as the heater fan, electric windows, rear defroster. After 5-10
minutes, some of them would work again - sometimes all of them. After
compiling a list, I could see that all of the items affected were
accessories that only worked with the ignition key ON.
So I replaced the switch assembly (list $140, discount $100) and it cured
ALL of
the problems.

OK - how does this link to your problem? The ignition switch has five major
sets of contacts in it - in my case three of them were damaged/corroded from
current arcing to the point where they restricted current flow. It's
possible that
there are damaged contacts in your switch that supply the affected systems.

Hope this helps.

doug

"Bill" <UseLinkToEmail (AT) AutoForumz (DOT) com> wrote