anyone have a part number for 2001? I'll even settle for a description of
what it looks like (size).

thanks.

Old P/N is 15369330 (Black housing & Green plate)
New P/N is 15359314 (Blue housing & Black plate)
Size is approx. 3" x 3" new part is a little longer.

Buy new part which is improved at GM dealer part shop,
around U$20 ~ $25 if my memory serves me.

Buying the part is the easiest thing to fix blower. Installing is a project.

"chetldr" <nospam (AT) loser (DOT) com> wrote

thanks - looks like I got the right one (blue and black). $25 and change.
now to see if I can get the old one out! any tips would be appreciated - I
read various other postings, which refer to the "other end of the wiring
harness" off the blower motor. the service department was kind enough to
show me a diagram, which seemed to indicate that it was vertically installed
near the blower motor - but damned if I can find it.

"SL" <spam (AT) scare (DOT) me> wrote

Once you get the part it's easy to find the part of your car.
Open plastic covers under the glove.
You'll see cables from the ceiling to the socket housing of the resistor.
Detach the cables socket, and undo 2 bolts of the resistor housing.
This is the hardest thing to do because you need to be an acrobat.
In particular a bolt at the end of the part does not have enough room to
undo it.
You'll have a back pain for sure. I had.^^;

Here's a guide of Niek Sanders you may have seen;
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------
SYMPTOM: First Two A/C Fan Speed Settings Don't Work

PROBLEM: Probably bad blower motor resistor card.

SOLUTION: Bad resistor cards can simply be replaced for about $20.
It has GM Part #15369330. (this is an old one) The card you
are replacing
". . . is under the dash on the passenger side, by the
blower motor it self, if you are some what flexible you
can do this . . ."

I performed this repair myself, and it certainly worked
for me. It was simply enough that anyone can do it, and
required no tools besides a pair of needlenoose pliers, a
7mm wrench, and a 7/32 wrench.

(1) Underneath the glove compartment, where the
passenger's feet are, you will see two chunks of
insulated panelling. Remove them. Its three bolts
(metric 7mm IIRC) and a push pin (just use needlenose
pliers).

(2) With the panels off, you will see the resistor card
in the far left corner (you facing towards engine).
The cable running into it unplugs easily enough.

(3) Just undo the two bolts (customary 7/32) and pull out
the old card.

(4) Stick in the new card, put the cable, all the bolts
and panels back where they came from.

Note that the rear bolt on the resistor card was an
absolute pain in the ass to get loose. The area its in
was too right for my ratchet. I ended up using mostly my
fingers directly on the bit. That was the only thing which
gave me trouble.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

Good luck!

Sean
www.turbo-mag.ca

"chetldr" <nospam (AT) loser (DOT) com> wrote

thanks for your help. I had to buy a swivel to get at the back bolt.
everything seemed to work out fine - the only damage was a small white
plastic hook that broke in half - no idea where the other half is. oh well.

thanks for saving me a couple hundred bucks! the fan stopped working at
36,450 miles, and there was no way I was paying someone to fix it.

I'll look you up when I'm replacing rotors and pads - that should be soon
(they were just replaced last month).

"SL" <spam (AT) scare (DOT) me> wrote

Swivel is a perfect idea for the bolt!
My fan stopped at 60,000 miles
but my rotors and pads are still working fine.
Power steering needs my hand's power tough.

"chetldr" <nospam (AT) loser (DOT) com> wrote