I am surprised that the window did not break. If all the heater lines are
gone the only solution is a new rear window.
"bjlasota" <UseLinkToEmail (AT) AutoForumz (DOT) com> wrote

I have a problem with my rear defrost on my car. I've never seen them
burn up before but I got in my car one day and the window literally
caught on fire. It wasn't anything big, but I could see a visible
flame shooting out of the lines in my rear window. Is there some kind
of repair kit that can fix this??? If so, where can I find such a
thing because I've looked in a few places.

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Never heard of that and I used to work in the autoglass business.
Did you have some type of tinting applied to that glass???
Only reason for this is excessive current. This can be caused by an
alternator running the voltage WAY too high also but then all sorts of
other items like bulbs probably would have blown too. Each wire is
designed to carry a certain amount of current throught it. Even if all
but one trace was cut the remaining trace will still carry the same
amount. For all to bun up, the supply voltage had to go very high
since the ground end almost always is right to the body on the other
side of the glass so no voltage can be introduced there. As for the
window breaking, you would be surprised how tough glass is. I used to
weld guide bars while still attached to door glass.

On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 22:07:15 GMT, "Henri" <henri_latour (AT) hotmail (DOT) com>
wrote:

bjlasota wrote:
clean metal under screw head, replace screw with a stainless steel one

Consider beefing up your grounds, Chevys have wimpy grounds,
starting with the t ** pon string that grounds battery cable to body.

Run a cable from engine block to frame rail, run jumpers from frame
rail to cowl, radiator support, and ft fenders

For the most ballbustorious ground in town, grind metal shiny,
apply tinning butter [ Eastwood's ] heat, and when cool, sand and
attach clean terminal using stainless steel screw, paint over to seal.

That's a ground that * will not * ever cause problems again !