I have a 1999 1500 Express van with 5.7L Vortec engine. It has the
well known problem of leaking coolant at the intake manifold to head
joint.

I have browed lots of posts on this subject but would like more help.

My factory service manual says I need to remove both valve covers
which appears to require removal of the steering pump pulley and
moving the AC bracket.

My Felpro intake manifold gasket set only includes one valve cover
gasket so they seem to think removal of both valve covers is not
required.

Why does either valve cover need to be removed?

If only one needs to be removed then which one?

Can the manifold be removed/replaced without moving the power stering
and AC mounting bracket?

Anything else special about doing this job on a G van?

thanks,

Andy

In article
<1171207270.844235.83960 (AT) a34g2000cwb (DOT) googlegroups.com>,
"Andy" <a.durbin (AT) netzero (DOT) net> wrote:

No need to remove the PS pulley or the PS pump itself. Remove
the AC compressor and move it aside, unbolt the AC/PS bracket and
pry it forward until it's clear of the corner of the intake
manifold. IIRC, there are three bolts thru the bracket from the
front, and one bolt on the back side of the PS pump. Lots easier
than it looks...

Correct. I usually remove the drivers side valve cover, on a
van, passenger side might make more sense.

The valve covers overlap the intake manifold.

Your preference, I pull the drivers side. On a G van, it -may-
make more sense to pull the passenger side since that side offers
more room to work on a van.

No. The bracket overhangs the manifold and one bolt in the
drivers side front corner. But, the bracket is very easy to move
forward once a few bolts and nuts are removed.

No, just follow all the advice that Ian and I have posted over
the years...

Follow the torque specs EXACTLY, do NOT over torque.
Torque values are very low, make sure you use a torque wrench of
appropriate capacity (electronic is best).
Use blue loctite on the manifold bolts when installing.
NO Roloc pads when cleaning, putty knife and razor blades to
scrape the gasket surfaces, don't sweat the stains left on the
gasket surfaces, it doesn't have to shine, just be clean and flat.
New coolant disconnect while the manifold is on the bench (if
applicable).
NO sealers required except the ends of the block/manifold
interface, I use "The Right Stuff" instead of the black RTV that
comes in the Fel-Pro kit.
Keep the injectors 'wet' which means cap off the fuel rail lines
once disconnected.
There is a mix of metric and SAE fasteners so be careful before
you round off a bolt head.
Manifold bolts do not need to be replaced unless they are
corroded anywhere along the shank/threads.

On Feb 11, 2:25 pm, aarcuda69062 <nonel... (AT) sbcglobal (DOT) net> wrote:

Thanks for the advice. I spent an hour or more studying the problem
this afternoon after removing the engine cover, air filter, and
coolant reservoir, and could then see that the bracket obstructed the
front left manifold bolt. Good to have the confirmation that the
bracket has to move but that it can be done without removing the PS
pulley.

The jobs looks to be quite awkward and I was tempted to have it done
at a shop. Trouble is I'm not sure I can get a reliable quote. Pep
Boys gave me a price but said no need to remove the AC compressor or
either valve cover. If required that would be extra. (I'm guessing a
lot extra)

Vans have their advantages but engine access is not one of them.

Andy

In article
<1171232320.130906.90370 (AT) q2g2000cwa (DOT) googlegroups.com>,
"Andy" <a.durbin (AT) netzero (DOT) net> wrote:

Valve cover and AC compressor removal (when required) is part of
the labor time for the job, where they come up with the 'extra"
is anyones guess. A brake and tire chain is probably not the
best choice for any type of engine work... they've already given
up clues that they probably are not all that familiar with the
job to begin with.

WRT the intake R & R, There are things that are easier to do on a
van versus a pick-up truck, the van is a little more awkward
compared to doing it hanging over the grill but it's not a
terrible job.

Hey Andy,

This thread has got my name all over it....I will be
doing this job on my '99 G30 -5.7 which has the mystery coolant
loss.....Just waiting for a little warmth and way less snow

The only thing I can add may be obvious, but taking 5 minutes to yank out at
least one seat makes it way nicer to get into the engine bay in the truck.
Throw a mat or such on the protruding bolts and flail away !!!

Good luck with it.....

Jeff



"aarcuda69062" <nonelson (AT) sbcglobal (DOT) net> wrote

Never_Enough_Tools wrote:
Just don't wait to long that you get intermix.. Water in oil.....

Alan

I can't comment on the accessing the engine in a G series...but I just
finished this job in a 99 Tahoe. After I finished the job...except some
distributor issues....I found a good write up on the procedure from another
group. I can clean it up, add my own comments and post if desired...please
advise. I also made a list of all the torque values, but I through it out
when I cleaned up the shop. Sorry.

Let me say that, in general, this is not a job for the week. If you have
good skills, patients, and time you can do it. There are no major technical
issues and no special tools required but the p/s pulley removal tool and a
light duty torque wrench. I've done a lot of repairs and such...and I was
quite proud of this one. I cleaned everything as I went along plus re-taped
some of the wire looms. The only evidence of me being in there is the fact
that the intake and valve covers are factory clean.

It is holding strong and as of day 4......has not consumed any coolant. (But
I'm still running a 7 lb cap. Next week I'll put the 15/16? lb cap back on.)
Note that I did send in a sample of the oil prior to the repair...and it did
show glycol contamination but no concentration values. There was no visible
evidence of water in oil...so it must have been seepage that allowed the
water to boil out and leave glycol behind. Hopefully no damage was done.

Also, thanks to Cuda, no more P1345 which cost me hours because I didn't
mark the distributor before I pulled it out. Was banking on just rolling to
1TDC and pokin' it in.

skimmer




"Alan Woodcock" <awoodcoc (AT) frontiernet (DOT) net> wrote

News Skimmer wrote:
But if it's not too much trouble I would appreciate you listing your own
version. I think I'll be needing to do the repair to my Dad's 1990
Sierra soon. Thanks.

Bob

What kind of damage can be done by this? My truck has lost about 2 qts of
coolant over the past 8 mos or so....I have changed the oil in that time
and it did not look abnormal....

If this has the potential for serious damage, I will move it way up on the
to do list....

Thanks for any comments..

Jeff

"Never_Enough_Tools" <jsellers (AT) adelphia (DOT) net> wrote

It can etch grooves in the manifold that would require its replacement.

Whitelightning