I have a Chevy Silverado 2007 classic. At some point yesterday,
probably due to plugging in too many gadgets into the auxiliary
outlet, it stopped supplying electricity.

Then I plugged in that stuff into the cigarette lighter, which went
out as well.

I then investigated the fuse box and found a blown fuse for the
cigarette lighter. It fixed the lighter.

However, I could not find a fuse for the auxiliary outlet and it
remained dead. I went through all 10 and 15 amp fuses and could not
find a blown one.

So, what am I missing in this story?

Also, I think that cigarette lighter style 12v connectors are not
really suitable for anything requiring more than a couple of amps. The
plug's end was very hot when I took it out (I would say at least
200F). It did not, however, have any signs of arcing.

So I would like to connect a terminal box to a battery, with probably
a 20A fuse, and mount that on my dash. Ideally, it would be good to
also have a switch on it. If there is some integrated product that
does that sort of thing, I would be interested, if not, I can make one
myself.

i

"Ignoramus21577" <ignoramus21577 (AT) NOSPAM (DOT) 21577.invalid> wrote

1) Less gadgets. (I know-LOL)

2) The Auxiliary outlet should have a 20 amp fuse listed under Aux. Power.

3) If you must keep the gadgets, have a more robust auxiliary power system
professionally installed. This will provide multiple power ports that are
individually fused.

4) The ampacity rating of the fuse is to protect the wiring, not the device.

5) Cigarette lighter/ Aux. outlets were not designed for continuous maximum
current draw.

There are many auxiliary fuse blocks on the market which may be installed
in your vehicle. Your under-hood fuse/relay box should have fusible auxiliary
outputs that you may use for installing such an item. Remember that the
aux-block will require a larger gauge wire that will require a fuse in the under-
hood fuse/relay box that is sized to protect that gauge of wire, or the fuse
may be smaller.

Do not be afraid to overkill on the wire size, and undershoot on the fuse size.
I'd run 8 gauge with a 30 amp fuse to the aux. fuse block, then have multiple
15 amp outlets that use 12 gauge wire.

This will allow for maximum protection off the wire, but will give you the ability
to increase the fuse size if such an act is necessary.

"Ignoramus21577" <ignoramus21577 (AT) NOSPAM (DOT) 21577.invalid> wrote

Which fuse blocks did you check? My '06 Silverado Duramax has one in the
driver's side end of the dash and another under the hood on the driver's
side. I don't know what is in which block.

Ron

On 2009-10-26, Ron Recer <RonRecer (AT) aol (DOT) com> wrote:
I checked the ones near the engine compartment. Now that I think about
it, I think that you are right, I should look for another one on the
dash.

i

On 2009-10-26, Nightcrawler <Dirtydeeds (AT) dirtcheap (DOT) net> wrote:
From my cold dead fingers

I thought so, but aux fuse seems OK. I like the other poster's
suggestions.

I would like to do this. Do you know how those are called, where can I
start looking.

I would DEFINITELY want this. I have some 12v tools and such that I
want to be properly powered.

Yep

Is that regular car mechanics that do it, or some special outfits?

I am moderately handy, as in, I can fix welding machines, diesels etc
(simple fixes only), but I would like this done nicely and properly.

i

Nightcrawler, I found a fuse kit and I think that I can install it
myself. Thanks a lot for a great suggestion.

i

Cool.

Just make sure that you don't use crappy wire crimpers
and pull test each termination. If you can't put 15 pounds
of tug on the terminal, well, the wire pops out. Not good.

"Ignoramus21577" <ignoramus21577 (AT) NOSPAM (DOT) 21577.invalid> wrote

On 2009-10-27, Nightcrawler <Dirtydeeds (AT) dirtcheap (DOT) net> wrote:
I crimp stuff all the time, my crimps are decent. I usually use a
pneumatic crimper.

Now, my other question is, where to plug in that fuse block, I mean
into which part of the truck's electrical is it usually plugged in.

Thanks

i

"Ignoramus27237" <ignoramus27237 (AT) NOSPAM (DOT) 27237.invalid> wrote

Nice.

Pop the under-hood fuse/relay box cover and look for some metal
plates that have a threaded hole. You will have to run wire from
that point out of the box and through the firewall. That's the easiest
location that has a workable terminal size and a built in fuse
placement.

If your choice is to mount the new fuse-block under the hood and
run multiple wires through the fire-wall, the above location or the
main junction block may be used. A factory terminated cable might
work for this if you are willing to run it un-fused to the new fuse-block,
or you may get a fusible link that is factory terminated. Just make
sure that the wire does not rub on anything and get some of that
split tube to wrap it with.

I checked the panel near the driver (inside the cab).

There was a AUX fuse in it, however, it was not blown. I think that a
wire going into the AUX socket got unsoldered due to temperature rise
from poor contact.

That should be easy to fix, but also, I will install a proper fuse
block and will connect some loads (like inverter) to that instead of
the cigarette style AUX socket.

i