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Freeze Plug 350 Small Block

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Steve
 
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Default Freeze Plug 350 Small Block - 05-21-2007 , 05:06 PM






Are there some on the back of the engine?
How can you tell if they are leaking?
Would you have to remove the engine or transmission to get @ them to
do the below?

If you have identified a leaky freeze plug, you can: (1) drain the
system, (2) clean the depression in the freeze plug with Scotch-brite
and a cleaner like Simple Green to remove both grease and water-
soluble deposits, (3) after it dries, apply a liberal amount of putty
type steel filled epoxy to the inside of the freeze plug. If you
aren't familiar, they are shaped like shallow flat-bottomed cups with
an inside diameter about the size of a quarter. What you want to do is
to cover the hole with the epoxy from the bottom of the cup up all the
sides to the rim, where there is no corrosion


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Whitelightning
 
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Default Re: Freeze Plug 350 Small Block - 05-21-2007 , 08:04 PM







"Steve" <alsehendo34 (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:
Are there some on the back of the engine?
How can you tell if they are leaking?
Would you have to remove the engine or transmission to get @ them to
do the below?
There are two cooling system "freeze" plugs on the back of the block, one on
each bank.
You have to remove the transmissionn and then the flywheel to access them
Pressure test the system, if you have water coming out of the bellhousing
they are a leaking.

Quote:
If you have identified a leaky freeze plug, you can: (1) drain the
system, (2) clean the depression in the freeze plug with Scotch-brite
and a cleaner like Simple Green to remove both grease and water-
soluble deposits, (3) after it dries, apply a liberal amount of putty
type steel filled epoxy to the inside of the freeze plug. If you
aren't familiar, they are shaped like shallow flat-bottomed cups with
an inside diameter about the size of a quarter. What you want to do is
to cover the hole with the epoxy from the bottom of the cup up all the
sides to the rim, where there is no corrosion
In the time it takes to do everything you listed, not to mention having to
wait for the putty to cure, you could just replace all the "freeze" plugs,
about a dozen times over.
Not to mention its the correct way to fix the problem, one that works and
lasts. "Freeze" plugs rust from the inside out.. Your method is like bondo
over rust and isnt even fit to call a jury rig, or even a shade tree repair.
And on early chrysler blocks the general recomendation is to replace with
brass plugs, not steel. I tend to use brass for everything, they never rust
out.

And I put "freeze" in quotation marks because all though we all call them
"freeze" plugs or expansion plugs, the engineering term is sand cast plugs.

Whitelightning




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NewsSkimmer
 
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Default Re: Freeze Plug 350 Small Block - 05-21-2007 , 08:57 PM




"Whitelightning" <white.lightning2 (AT) verizon (DOT) net> wrote

Quote:
"Steve" <alsehendo34 (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:1179781561.805984.207030 (AT) r3g2000prh (DOT) googlegroups.com...
Are there some on the back of the engine?
How can you tell if they are leaking?
Would you have to remove the engine or transmission to get @ them to
do the below?

There are two cooling system "freeze" plugs on the back of the block, one
on each bank.
You have to remove the transmissionn and then the flywheel to access them
Pressure test the system, if you have water coming out of the bellhousing
they are a leaking.

Also, be sure to do the test cold....so they leak liquid...not steam.

skimmer




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