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Proper installation of a "fuse block"

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Ignoramus11615
 
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Default Proper installation of a "fuse block" - 11-05-2009 , 01:38 PM






I purchased a fuse block to install in my Silverato 2500 HD, and would
like to install it "properly".

So if you guys can share what are the guidelines for mounting it in a
workmanlike manner, safely and conveniently, I would like to
know. Also where would you tie it in. To battery directly? Do I need
(as I think) to also have an inline fuse on a wire that is feeding the
fuse block?

Thanks a lot!

i

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Bill
 
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Default Re: Proper installation of a "fuse block" - 11-07-2009 , 10:10 AM






"Ignoramus11615" wrote in message
Quote:
I purchased a fuse block to install in my Silverato 2500 HD, and would
like to install it "properly".

So if you guys can share what are the guidelines for mounting it in a
workmanlike manner, safely and conveniently, I would like to
know. Also where would you tie it in. To battery directly? Do I need
(as I think) to also have an inline fuse on a wire that is feeding the
fuse block?

Basically "make if look like factory"!

That is all the wiring will be wrapped with electrical tape, protected with
plastic tubing, and tie wrapped everywhere so the wiring can't move and rub
against metal objects (which will cut into the wire over time and cause a
short to ground).

Then it is possible for any wire to rub against a sharp metal object and
short to ground. For that reason, it is a good idea to install a main fuse
to the main wire going to the fuse block RIGHT after its connection to
positive.

The positive connection can be at a main distribution point usually which is
where the main red positive battery cable goes.

This depends on the total amperage used basically. The wiring form the
battery would need to be large enough to supply the amperage previously used
as well as the additional amperage used by any add-on devices.

And the wire going to the fuse block would need to be large enough to handle
the total amperage used by the fuse block. Not the total value of all the
fuses, but the total amperage of everything which would be turned on at the
same time (the devices connected). The total value of all the fuses usually
is higher. There may be a 15 amp fuse on one circuit, but the device
connected may only use 12 amps.

Fuses protect the wiring. Each fuse is the MAXIMUM amount of amperage the
wiring can handle safely without heating up or melting. The fuse will blow
before the wire heats up if the circuit is overloaded.

Here are the correct wire sizes to use depending on amperage and length of
wire...
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-volt-wire-gauge-amps.htm

The amp meters they sell in auto stores frequently can measure only up to 10
amps. This may have worked for a model T, but these days vehicles have 30
amp circuits and 100 amp alternators. Here is a 600 amp capacity AC/DC amp
meter for modern times...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RLIURA

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  #3  
Old   
Ignoramus30893
 
Posts: n/a

Default Re: Proper installation of a "fuse block" - Yesterday , 02:41 PM



On 2009-11-07, Bill <billnomailnospamx (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote:
Quote:
"Ignoramus11615" wrote in message
I purchased a fuse block to install in my Silverato 2500 HD, and would
like to install it "properly".

So if you guys can share what are the guidelines for mounting it in a
workmanlike manner, safely and conveniently, I would like to
know. Also where would you tie it in. To battery directly? Do I need
(as I think) to also have an inline fuse on a wire that is feeding the
fuse block?


Basically "make if look like factory"!

That is all the wiring will be wrapped with electrical tape, protected with
plastic tubing, and tie wrapped everywhere so the wiring can't move and rub
against metal objects (which will cut into the wire over time and cause a
short to ground).

Then it is possible for any wire to rub against a sharp metal object and
short to ground. For that reason, it is a good idea to install a main fuse
to the main wire going to the fuse block RIGHT after its connection to
positive.

The positive connection can be at a main distribution point usually which is
where the main red positive battery cable goes.

This depends on the total amperage used basically. The wiring form the
battery would need to be large enough to supply the amperage previously used
as well as the additional amperage used by any add-on devices.

And the wire going to the fuse block would need to be large enough to handle
the total amperage used by the fuse block. Not the total value of all the
fuses, but the total amperage of everything which would be turned on at the
same time (the devices connected). The total value of all the fuses usually
is higher. There may be a 15 amp fuse on one circuit, but the device
connected may only use 12 amps.

Fuses protect the wiring. Each fuse is the MAXIMUM amount of amperage the
wiring can handle safely without heating up or melting. The fuse will blow
before the wire heats up if the circuit is overloaded.

Here are the correct wire sizes to use depending on amperage and length of
wire...
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-volt-wire-gauge-amps.htm

The amp meters they sell in auto stores frequently can measure only up to 10
amps. This may have worked for a model T, but these days vehicles have 30
amp circuits and 100 amp alternators. Here is a 600 amp capacity AC/DC amp
meter for modern times...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RLIURA


Bill, thanks, I am done, I did protect the cable with two layers of
shrink tubing at the point of entrance, and with cable wrap inside the
engine compartment. The fuse block has appropriate fuses, of course.

All devices such as inverter and cigarette outlets, plug in via quick
disconnect terminals.

i

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