Pulling boat, power and cooling

#31

If the engine can flow more air out, where is it coming from??? Think of the
exhaust/intake system as a whole. The most restrictive element effects the whole
system.

Some have doubled the standard air filter elements, (stacked) and then modified
the air cleaner housing (made it taller) to hold them, then added a second
snorkel slowing the air flow to mitigate the incoming air noise. Not restricting
but offering a second path so the overall movement of air is slower with the
same volume. Ideally a diesel will have no (zero) vacuum in the intake, however
with a clogged or insufficient size air filter that is not the real case. Note
on farm tractors there is a device that indicates when the air filter is dirty,
it operates on vacuum! Even under high rpms (relatively speaking of course,
diesels do not turn really high rpm) with your 6.2 you will find a small amount
of vacuum in the intake, indicating the filter and silencer is of insufficient
size. Removing the silencer was a good beginning. Try rigging a vacuum gauge and
see what you have in the intake of your 6.2 at say about 3,000 rpm. Note
throttle setting has little to do with intake restriction on a diesel. Volume of
air movement is more related to rpm than throttle setting, unlike a gas engine
which is the inverse of this due to the presence of a throttle plate.

As for grinding out the restrictor rings, I think it could be done but not
without a lot of effort. If you have lots of time on your hands, a really good
set of hearing protectors, good safety glasses, a good air or electric die
grinder, and lots (many many) of small sanding drums...... You get the idea!
If you can find the 6.5 non turbo manifolds, they flow better and have no
restrictor rings. When you compare the two side by side you will instantly see
the difference. They are a direct bolt on replacement on a 6.2.

As for your analogy of a 650 cfm carb, it will flow 650 under very specific
circumstances. The idea is to approach those circumstances as closely as you can
in a field application. Realizing this is only an analogy. The lower you can
make the specific air pressure below the carb increases the pressure
differential across the venturi and thus more air flows. If you allow more air
out the exhaust of a diesel the cylinder is cleaner (more exhaust out, less
residual contamination of the incoming air charge) and more incoming charge can
enter the cylinder. If the cylinder were to empty into a space with absolutely
zero pressure and infinite volume there would be no back pressure. That is not
the real world though. To reduce the pressure in the exhaust port is to approach
the same situation. Voila, more HP, and better fuel economy. The key to
increased horse power and fuel economy is volumetric efficiency (with appologies
to Ed Iskenderian, who said it first many years ago).

George Vigneron

Celica Dude wrote:

Quote:

I wouldn't think that any more air is getting into the engine because you
haven't changed the size of the intake. I can understand the
unrestricted exhaust allows more expansion of the gases and the engine
doesn't have to fight nearly as much to get the exhaust out.

A 650 cfm carb (although totally unrelated to a diesel) will only flow a
maximum of 650 cfm... no mater how much your exhaust system will flow.

"George Vigneron" <gvig (AT) gbronline (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:40753F7E.D3DE941C (AT) gbronline (DOT) com...
One thing I forgot.

Actually the same amount of air isn't entering the engine, more is because
more
can get out. Think about it. But when you improve the exhaust then the
intake
system becomes the most restrictive and the focus of your attention must
change.

Celica Dude wrote:

"George Vigneron" <gvig (AT) gbronline (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:4074C46E.87C93E05 (AT) gbronline (DOT) com...
To imagine why a diesel is so sensitive to a restrictive exhause
consider
this,
a diesel has no throttle plate restriction thus it is always moving
"about" the
same amount of air that a comperable size gas engine would be moving
at
the same
RPM if the throttle on the gas engine was wide open. Of course this
will
vary
slightly due to fuel flow and heat expansion within the chamber.

You can buy a nice free flowing exhaust from Banks and others or you
can
use
your ingenuity and use the exhaust manifolds from a non turbo 6.5 app
like
I
did. Those and a good free flowing dual setup from a reputable muffler
shop. It
is worth the search, work and effort.

A non restrictive intake system also helps, noticeably!

I am just trying to imagine how *just* an exhaust system makes the thing
have more power. It doesn't bring in more air, because the intake is
the
same.. The same amount of air is entering the engine, as well as the
same
amount of fuel.

Doesn't compute with me... Do you have actual dyno figures, or just
"seat
of the pants" dyno figures?

#32

On Fri, 09 Apr 2004 15:59:42 GMT, "Celica Dude" <shore (AT) noteven (DOT) com>
wrote:

Quote:

:|I wouldn't think that any more air is getting into the engine because you
:|haven't changed the size of the intake. I can understand the
:|unrestricted exhaust allows more expansion of the gases and the engine
:|doesn't have to fight nearly as much to get the exhaust out.
:|
:|A 650 cfm carb (although totally unrelated to a diesel) will only flow a
:|maximum of 650 cfm... no mater how much your exhaust system will flow.

look at it this way... (using your 650 carb) if your exhaust can only
flow 600 CFM in stock form, and you improve it to the point that it
flows 700 CFM, you move the most restrictive element (i.e the carb
instead of the exhaust) to the intake, which can now flow more air.

-Bret

Quote:

#33

Okay, you have shown me the light on this topic

D

Have you heard anything about the topic on this website:
http://www.impulsengine.com/

Seems very intriguing...

#34

Keep the K&N. Oil soaked cotton is the best air filter on the market today.

"KJ" <searchalll (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:

"Mark G." <cadman_meg (AT) comcast (DOT) net> wrote in message
news:GNOdnf5IVrh2I_LdRVn-gw (AT) comcast (DOT) com...
Have an '85 K5 Blazer with a 6.2L diesel that is in great condition.

Good to hear, treat it nice (your not) and you'll have it for the rest of
your life.

Motor
is very strong and healthy. I use this truck to pull a 26' cabin cruiser
that when full of gas and water and gear and all can weigh up to about
7200
lbs.

Thats not a light load.

As some of you
may know, these trucks have huge radiators and the lines for cooling the
motor as well as the tranny run through it and all.

Not a good thing, that.

Although when traveling
up a hill, it seems my gauge goes up more than it should faster than it
should. Radiator is fine, tranny is almost new.

I'll tell you how to keep it that way.

I thought about adding a
tranny cooler, but not sure if that would help.

Trust me, it will.

Now am thinking of adding a
better thermostat.

Wouldn't be a waste of money.

Any recommendations or anything I can do here. Sometimes
have to pull over more often than I would like to, to let temp gauge go
down. Secondly, even though this truck pulls it fine on flat roads and
slight hills, when trying to go over mountain passes, it seems that the
truck should pull it faster than it does. Typically slow to about 25-30
mph.

That engine has something like 165HP @ 3500 RPM. That's a 305CUI gas
engine.
It has a little more torque then a 350 can produce though.

I have a K&N air filter

Junk. If you like your engine strong ditch that.

and thought about adding a Banks system,

Many consider this a must add - like tires and oil.

but don't
want to spend that. Is there anything I can do to help in this area?
Thanks
for taking the time to read this. Hope to get some help here as I have
in
the past. Thanks again.

This is TranSurgeon's procedure, I can't take the credit for this piece of
work.

"Here's a piece I wrote some time back for the dodge truck group

It applies to GM products, except the part about swapping oil pans

"well, at the risk of calling down the wrath of those who disagree with my
philosophies about transmission coolers in general and truck transmission
coolers in particular, here goes:

If you are towing any load at all, you need a cooler.

If you are towing a small load, you need a medium sized (Hayden 1678 or
Tru-Cool 4490) cooler

If you are towing a medium sized load, you need a big (Hayden 1679 or
Tru-Coool 4590) cooler

If you are towing a large load, you need a pair of Hayden 1679's or
Tru-Cool
4590. plumbed in parallel.

These should be mounted in front of the A/C condenser, as close to the
grille as possible; this may take some time to
build the necessary brackets. Mount the cooler(s) at 4 points, they are
subject to a lot of vibration from the airflow thru the grille. Check
frequently that the cooler will not touch the grille, contact will 1)
eventually break the grille, and 2) drive you up the wall on a long trip.

Plumbing it up:

We ALWAYS eliminate the factory radiator oil cooler from the circuit.
Always. Usually an ifra-red detector scan of the finished installation,
after a pretty brutal road test on a rebuilt unit, will show the following
temps:

Cooler inlet = 140-160
Cooler outlet= about 20-30 above ambient (80-90 on a 60 degree day)
Pan = about 120-130 depending on how much fluid the pan holds.

I know, I know, there are those who claim that if you do that, that the
ATF
will 'gel' at low temperatures. For those, I'll just point out that the
'pour point' of ATF is -71F and move on.

When you eliminate the factory cooler, you will have to cut the existing
lines and go to hose.
First: NEVER use a hacksaw to cut the lines. Use a tubing cutter.
Second: Having spent a couple hours mounting the coolers, here's where a
lot
of people get in a rush and say 'good enough' instead of taking the extra
measures to insure a good installation. Mounting the coolers is easy,
insuring that the plumbing will stand the acid test of a long road trip is
not difficult, just time consuming:

1) Sharp edges on metal partitions through which the hoses pass: these
work
at a hose over time, but rest assured, it will cut thru on a mountain
road,
at 11 at night, in a blizzard or downpour, with the wife and kids in the
truck. Count on it.
Where the hose goes through a metal partition (radiator support, usually)
take a length of 5/16 hose, slit it lengthwise, and make a grommet to line
the hole. Use plastic wire-ties (I recommend 'IDEAL' brand from an
electrical supply house, they are tougher in bad environments) to secure
the
hoses to each other and to support points; make one if you need one and
there isn't one handy.

2) Transistion from hose to metal lines: Before you start the project,
check
with your local NAPA or CarQuest to see if they have the machine and
fittings to crimp hydraulic-style connectors on hose. When you find a
place
that does, have them make up ends for your hoses with a hydraulic fitting
that has a compression sleeve to accept the metal line.

3) Cooler 'kits' are woefully short on hose. Stop by a transmission shop
and pick up about 6 extra feet. Then have your connectors crimped on THAT
piece and the piece that came with the cooler. Now you can connect up to
the metal lines first, then hook up to the cooler after measuring how much
you need (no running short by 2" under the truck on a Saturday night at 9
o'clock).

4) If you use a pair of coolers, plumb them in parallel, not series. Use
brass barbed Tee's for the junctions, run the lines to/from the
transmission
into the stem of the tee, and the lines to coolers to the 'top bar' of the
tee. That makes flow restriction due to elbows equal for both and
equalizes
the flow.

5) Good quality hose clamps are a must. I find the ones supplied with the
coolers have too much 'left-over' after tightening, that piece sticking
out
is just waiting to slice someone's (yours, probably) hand open. I use
'Ideal' (not the same company that makes the wire ties) number 5203's,
they
work just right for the hose in the cooler kits. The instructions say NOT
to double clamp, but if you arrange the clamps with the screws on opposite
sides of the hose, two will fit nicely if you lube the hose and get it all
the way onto the cooler fitting. Try to arrange the clamps so you can
reach
the screws with a 1/4" socket on a long extension thru the grille.

6) Don't put the grille back in right away, run it till the fluid gets
warm
(with no load, it won't get really hot), then snug down the clamps. Don't
overdo it, watch the little 'slots' where the screw rides, when the hose
material is just sticking up thru those slots, its tight enough. After
you're sure its fluid-tight, then put the grille back in.

If you have the NON-overdrive transmission (A727 or A904) you can order
and
install an oil pan for the matching overdrive unit (A518 or A500), which
will give you a couple extra quarts of fluid capacity.

Hope this helps. Take your time, don't rush the job, always think in
terms
of 'how can this part screw up and leave me stranded?' and out-think it.
Your transmission will thank you for it.""

HTH

~KJ~

#35

ill say, i wonder what the $$ is
"Celica Dude" <shore (AT) noteven (DOT) com> wrote

Quote:

Okay, you have shown me the light on this topic

D

Have you heard anything about the topic on this website:
http://www.impulsengine.com/

Seems very intriguing...

#36

They have prices up there for engine kits...

"mat" <peanutsrevenge (AT) adelphia (DOT) net> wrote

Quote:

ill say, i wonder what the $$ is
"Celica Dude" <shore (AT) noteven (DOT) com> wrote in message
news:8%dfc.31195$F9.19290 (AT) nwrddc01 (DOT) gnilink.net...
Okay, you have shown me the light on this topic

D

Have you heard anything about the topic on this website:
http://www.impulsengine.com/

Seems very intriguing...

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Pulling boat, power and cooling

Chevy/GMC trucks Chevy/GMC trucks (alt.trucks.chevy)

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Re: Pulling boat, power and cooling - 04-18-2004 , 09:56 PM

Re: Pulling boat, power and cooling - 04-19-2004 , 09:59 AM