I always hear the bad things about the 2.7 and the sludge problem. (After
I bought one).

Even read stories about those who changed the oil with synthetic every
3,000 miles and they still had a ruined engine anywhere from 50,000 to
65,000 miles.

Does anyone know of a 2.7 engine that lasted 100,000 + miles without it
shucking out?

If so, what was their oil changing routine.

I have read that Chrysler corrected the sludge problem with the 2003 and
newer engines. However, there are websites that say the problem still
exists. Mine is a 2004.

I posted some concerns last summer on this website and thought I had a
handle on it but after a trip to a mechanic last week I came home a little
discouraged.

As stated above, I just want to know if anyone has had excellent luck with
this engine.

Any info. would be appreciated.

"bernsax" <bernsax (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

Those are the ones that dont maintain them and cry about them
So do the owners that dont maintain them

Thats my info
Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

bernsax wrote:
Mine's got 177k miles on it and running great on my 80 mile per day
commute. I think it needs new exhaust valve seals, but other than that,
doing fine.

Bought it with 58k miles on it - don't know the maintenance history
prior to that. No synthetic. Castrol GTX every 3500 miles with filter
(Purolator Pure One™) at each change. I keep 8 oz. of Marvel Mystery
Oil in the crankcase at all times initially as a corrective, now as a
preventative, with a mix of 10W-30 and 20W-50 (2-to-3 in summer, 3-to-2
in winter).

Some (all?) corrective steps were taken before then - probably by 2001).
As dumb as some of the things that the manufacturers do sometimes, I'd
find it hard to believe that they made it their main engine in the new
platforms if they had not fixed the problem.

I don't know what we told you then, but I doubt we'd have painted an
overly rosey picture for you then in spite of my good experience.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

I have an early 2.7 (1999) in an Intrepid with 195,000 km (120,00 miles) on
it with absolutely no problems at all. All I've done to the motor has been
oil and filter changes every 5,000 km (3,000 miles) with the dealer's 5W30
dino oil and a Mopar filter.

Heck, I'm still on my first water pump! I've done exactly 4 things to the
motor in 8 1/2 years: new EGR valve, replaced the PVC valve and hose (not
with the revised part either - next time), new plugs and had the oil
pressure sending unit repaired to fix the common venting problem. That's
it.

Engine still idles smoothly and pulls as strongly as when new.

--
Jeff Falkiner
99 Intrepid - the Green Monster
04 Sebring - the Silver Bullet


"Bill Putney" <bptn (AT) kinez (DOT) net> wrote

Jeff Falkiner wrote:

Well, Jeff - you and I are proof that it doesn't necessarily require
synthetic to get good service out of these engines.

Just curious - what has been your typical driving on that Intrepid. I
attribute a good bit of my good experience with the 2.7L to my 80 mile
mostly highway speed daily commute (and to good personal maintenance
practices - and MMO hasn't hurt - helped? probably). You?

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

My 2.7L has been subjected to a major mix of driving. For the first 4
years, my commute to work was 6 minutes, now it's 25. The car has had its
share of longer trips as well. It's a 2 hour drive to family. The car has
also been to the east coast (from the frigid Midwest an hour from Detroit)
and down to Florida.

I don't know if I've been good or lucky, but I am a firm believer in proper
maintenance, including good PM. Now if I can figure out when to bite the
bullet on that water pump....

--
Jeff Falkiner
99 Intrepid - the Green Monster
04 Sebring - the Silver Bullet


"Bill Putney" <bptn (AT) kinez (DOT) net> wrote

Jeff Falkiner wrote:

You and me both. I just bought parts to replace the leaking a.c
evaporator - still have to install that (pull the dash, etc.). It will
be a while after that that I will have the $$ or will power to tackle
the timing chain and water pump. I'm willing to accept that it could go
at any time. If I get to it before that happens, that would be a bonus.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

Bill Putney:
You stated " I keep 8 oz. of Marvel Mystery
Oil in the crankcase at all times initially as a corrective, now as a
preventative, with a mix of 10W-30 and 20W-50 (2-to-3 in summer, 3-
to-2
in winter). "
Was this MMO for sludge removal initially? Was there any evidence on
oil drain &/or visual inspection inside the motor that it did remove
some sludge?
We have a 2.7 02 Sebring and while the little I can see inside the oil
filler looks clean, I'm concerned about sludge - to the point where
I'm doing my own oil/filter changes,(3k miles) as I can no longer
trust the quickie places to put in quality oil (no matter what the
decal on their bulk despensers says.) As for MMO, I've known race-car
guys since the 60's who use it in crankcase &/or fuel; boat owners who
swear by it for old marine 4 cycle motors, etc., but have never
purchased it - maybe that logo looks too antiquated!
TIA
Bill.

In article <1172511633.216525.105690 (AT) q2g2000cwa (DOT) googlegroups.com>,
"Bill" <WFBowen (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote:

Lube use.
I now have my wife's Sebring done at Midas and they have to bring in the
Castrol GTX oil in normal 1L containers for my change.
We are on a 3 month change interval, regardless of the mileage, which is
only about 2K miles.

I'd like to switch to synthetic and go back to a 6 month change interval.
Does anyone have any comments on such a switch. There is only 30K miles
on this 2001 2.7L Sebring.

Bill wrote:
Yes - I assumed the worst since I did not know the exact history of the
car (other than it had been a fleet vehicle - the oil pan drain hole
threads had been stripped out - a comon occurence on aluminum pan cars
maintained by idiots - and I assume was the motivation for it having
been sold off, unless the fleet owner decided to dump it from fear of
the rumors - true or not - of 2.7L failures that were occuring around
the 60k to 80k mile range). Had no way of really knowing one way or the
other what the internal sludge condition was, or at least, I decided not
to do what it would take to find out and to, again, assume the worse and
to take measures which would do no harm and likely undo any buildup in a
controlled manner.

Did not look for it - just made the decision and went with it - didn't
matter if it had it or not since I was fairly confident of the remedial
measures I was taking - and regardless of what I saw coming out the
drain hole, my remedy and preventative plan would remain the same. Did
not know of the sludge rumors until after I had bought it.

Yes - there is a lot of evidence that those places (and even some
dealers) will charge you for an oil and filter change without actually
doing it if they think you are not paying attention (saw it first hand
on two vehicles that I was involved with - one my elderly mother's brand
new car at a dealer, the other on a used vehicle I bought with a Mopar
filter with heavily rusted base that had been "religiously changed at a
local Amerilube every 3000 miles since new"). Also there was an on-line
exposé about a chain in LA caught on camera by a TV station.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')