My 2000 neon AC compressor won't start. I have my doubts it's stuck. Will
the AC compressor engage if the r134a is low?

Mike

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004, Mikhael47 wrote:

If it were stuck, turning it on would result in loud noises and bad
smells, because the belt would burn, burn, burn.

No.

-Stern

Normally if the system is out of 134A, the compressor will not go on. This
is somewhat a safety feature on cars.

"Mikhael47" <mikhael47 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

"Mikhael47" <mikhael47 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 10:51:51 -0400, "Mikhael47"
<mikhael47 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote:

change both the evaporator and the condenser at the same time, as they
virtually always fail within months of each other.

On Sat, 12 Jun 2004 nospam.clare.nce (AT) snyder (DOT) on.ca wrote:

The above is yet another crockashit from Clare. The evaporator and
condenser do not need to be replaced *unless* they fail, and the idea of
"saving yourself grief" by unnecessarily changing the evaporator,
especially, is utterly laughable.

"Save yourself a bunch of grief, spend nine hundred unnecessary
dollars"...

Pfft.

-Stern

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 23:11:00 -0400, "Daniel J. Stern"
<dastern (AT) 127 (DOT) 0.0.1> wrote:

Stern - you are being a jackass.
There is a DEFINITE problem with the quality of the a/c evaporators
and condensors on the Neon vehicles - when they are low on R134A it is
ALWAYS due to a leak. In most cases the condensor is found to be
leaking in the bottom right corner.
You go through the trouble and expense of replacing the condensor and
regassing the system - only to find less than 6 months later the R134
level has dropped again to the point the compressor will not run. IF
you were smart enough to put dye in the system at the first repair, by
removing the grommet in the right lower heater housing under the dash
and shining the UV light in, you will find significant indications of
refrigerant leakage on the evaporator core.. When you remove the core
you will find leakage around the edge of the core. This is a STANDARD
FAILURE MODE on the Neon AC. Other than the Evap and condensor cores,
leakage is very uncommon (compared to FORD where the "O" rings like to
be replaced every year or two).
It is NOT uncommon for both condensor and evaporator to fail within 3
years It is very uncommon for them to last as long as 6 years.

Save yourself a lot of money - do the job twice.
It's up to you. You can try to save yourself some money by only
replacing the "easy" part - which is most obvious - or you can do the
job RIGHT and replace the one that is obviously leaking, as well as
the one that I have told you will ALSO be leaking - and which you
cannot see is leaking, all at once instead of doing the job twice.

Oh, and while you are at it and you are pulling the condensor - take a
GOOD look at the rad core too. If the fins are loose behind the left
hand fan, you may as well save yourself some more aggravation, and
spend a bit more money and replace the rad while you are at it -
because you WILL end up replacing it within the year. The consensor
bolts to the rad, and the rad to the condensor. The bolts from the
bottom of the condensor to the rad will in all likelihood break off in
the rad.

In order to remove the rad, you need to remove the entire battery box.
(to get the right fan out)
Usually the battery hold down bolt is seized - so just yank the
battery out of the back clip, thewn remove the battery case and soak
the bottom of the hold down bolt with Kroil or some other GOOD
penetrant to see if you can get it loose. If not, the battery can be
replaced using a bar like the Stanley Tools Wonder-Bar to force the
plastic box/clip back while pressing the battery back in.

Been there - done that - got the "T" shirt - too often.

On Mon, 14 Jun 2004 nospam.clare.nce (AT) snyder (DOT) on.ca wrote:

....says the man who recommends hundreds of dollars in unnecessary parts
and labour.

Sure, fine, whatever.

-Stern

A/C is a closed up system. Freon, R12, R134A etc does not run out by being
consumed. There is obviously a leak somewhere. In my case, my car holds 2
1/4 pounds and looses less than 1 per year so it's worth for me just to have
some re-added every beggining of summer.

<nospam.clare.nce (AT) snyder (DOT) on.ca> wrote

Black Bomb wrote:
The only problem with doing this is that what leaks out is a mix of
R-134a and compressor oil, and what you put back in is just R-134a.
Eventually, most of the oil will be gone from the system and the
compressor will run dry and seize. You could try putting in an ounce of
oil occasionally, but you're only guessing how much has been lost and
there's a great risk of getting TOO much oil in the system.

The proper solution is to find and fix the leak (but not by
"shotgunning" evaporators and condensors at a car that doesn't need them
as one nincompoop suggested) and then recharging with the recommended
amount of oil and refrigerant.