On my 2000 Neon, the A/C compressor will only run for a second or two,
then stop, then start, then stop. Never engaging for more then a few
seconds. I checked the low pressure side, and it goes from 0 to 25,
then back to zero, then 25, as the compressor kicks on and off.

I was told that if I jump the low pressure cut-off switch
temporally,so the compressor would stay running I would then be able
to add the R134 (as it is now, it won;t accept the R134, I guess
because the compressor will not stay running)

Anyone know where this low pressure cut of switch is located on a 2000
Neon, and what would it look like?

whats the high side doing ???

me wrote:

On Sun, 04 Jul 2004 15:05:21 GMT, mic canic <dbrider (AT) cac (DOT) net> wrote:

I don't know, the gauge I bought (At Pep Boys) only fits on the low
side.

Seeing that the AC won't accept any R134, someone suggested placing
the cans in the sun for a while, and the AC would accept them easier.
Is this because the pressure in the can will be greater than the
pressure of the AC

I think I would go with 'jumping' the switch before I would recommend
setting the cans in the hot sun!


"me" <noemail (AT) here (DOT) com> wrote

In article <DEcGc.22233$mN3.16651@lakeread06>,
"PC Medic" <NOT (AT) home (DOT) net> wrote:

Can't imagine how he'll even get close before his spaceship burns
up.....

If he jumps the low pressure safety switch, he'll be engaging the
compressor with insufficient refrigerant to carry the lubricating
oil (that's why the switch is there). Kiss the compressor
good-bye.

Depending upon the length of his charging hose, he can;

Place the cans in a pan of hot water.
Place the cans where the hot air wash off of the cooling fan will
warm them up.
Warm them with a hair dryer (blow dryer).

"Neil Nelson" <nonelson (AT) sbcglobal (DOT) net> wrote

Not talking leaving the thing running via the 'jumper' for extended period
here. Unless the thing is bone dry it should only need a couple minutes
until it will cycle on its own. If it is bone dry than r134 is the least of
his problems!

On Mon, 5 Jul 2004 15:36:10 -0400, "PC Medic" <NOT (AT) home (DOT) net> wrote:

low on R134 he LIKELY has a leaky condenser and/or evaporator.

On my daughter's car I replaced the condenser last summer - it was
leaking - and should have replaced the evaporator as well - as it has
proven also to be leaking - no more R134 in the system this spring.
Nasty piece of work to replace too --- So Good Old Dad hasn't done it
yet. Did replace the Radiator, which was also found to be shot when I
started looking for refrigerant leaks this spring.

<nospam.clare.nce (AT) snyder (DOT) on.ca> wrote

Well I am getting ready to do my Caravan (again) and yes I agree the stuff
doesn't evaporate so it has to leak from somewhere, I just haven't
determined where yet. It runs fine all summer after recharging, but this
will make the 2nd time I have had to recharge after a winter of no use and
still have not determined where it is leaking. Perhaps I will give the can
warming method a try this time. If I can nurse through one more summer I
will tear it down this fall to fix it once and for all.

PC Medic wrote:

This isn't related to your leak problem, but your comment about a winter
of no use. Most cars owner's manuals recommend that you run the AC at
least once a month in the winter to keep things lubricated. Most cars
will run the compressor in defrost if you turn the temp down far enough.
Otherwise, it is a good idea to turn on the AC periodically during the
off season.


Matt

In article <ccclea1v9n (AT) enews4 (DOT) newsguy.com>,
Matt Whiting <whiting (AT) chilitech (DOT) net> wrote:

Given the temperature/pressure relationship of either R-134a or
R-12, please explain how the compressor will even engage if the
temperatures drop more than a few degrees below freezing....

IOWs, you can -try- to run your AC in the winter months if you
want to but all you're doing is making yourself feel good about
something that isn't happening.