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overfilled the DODGE 2003 GRAND CARAVAN during oil change
Chrysler Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Eagle, etc info/talk (rec.autos.makers.chrysler)
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#31
 
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Re: overfilled the DODGE 2003 GRAND CARAVAN during oil change -
01-07-2007
, 02:22 PM
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Hello all, I think by mistake I have overfilled my DODGE 2003 GRAND CARAVAN SE with 1 to 1.5 quarts of oil.. It is like 1 inch over the max level on the gauge. I have not driven the van too much around. Should I try to remove 1 quart? or is it fine to wait for the next oil change.. please let me know your thoughts.. please see this article below. http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repa...ljfj7lN4aDc78F ------------- CAUTION: Do not overfill the engine. Adding too much oil can overfill the crankcase. As the crankshaft spins around, it can whip the oil into foam if the level is too high. This, in turn, can cause a drop in oil pressure and loss of lubrication to critical engine parts. Also, too much oil may cause leaks as the extra oil is forced past seals and gaskets. |
#32
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You are probably wondering how to get the oil out. I suggest you buy one of those pumps that are driven by an electric drill. They usually have threaded ends to accept a normal hose fitting. By rummaging around at your local hardware store, you can find adapters that couple these fittings to plastic tubing (also sold by your hardware store). Slide the tubing from the inlet side into the dipstick hole and stick the other in a suitable container. Run the drill motor until you have removed enough oil to satisfy the "full" condition. I did this when my friendly Audi dealer could not figure out how to avoid overfilling my A4. Good luck, Ken |
the oil again since he couldn't figure out how to drain only a qt.
Here's what I would do: Remove the oil filter, dump the oil that's in
it, reinstall it. Start the engine, let the filter fill again, turn
engine off, then remove the filter again, dump it, reinstall it.
Re-start engine, run long enough to re-fill filter, turn engine off.
Recheck oil level. Depending on size of filter, that should have
removed approx. 1 qt. of oil.
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')
#33
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The OP posted yesterday that he took care of it by having WalMart change the oil again since he couldn't figure out how to drain only a qt. Here's what I would do: Remove the oil filter, dump the oil that's in it, reinstall it. Start the engine, let the filter fill again, turn engine off, then remove the filter again, dump it, reinstall it. Re-start engine, run long enough to re-fill filter, turn engine off. Recheck oil level. Depending on size of filter, that should have removed approx. 1 qt. of oil. Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x') |
#34
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KWS wrote: You are probably wondering how to get the oil out. I suggest you buy one of those pumps that are driven by an electric drill. They usually have threaded ends to accept a normal hose fitting. By rummaging around at your local hardware store, you can find adapters that couple these fittings to plastic tubing (also sold by your hardware store). Slide the tubing from the inlet side into the dipstick hole and stick the other in a suitable container. Run the drill motor until you have removed enough oil to satisfy the "full" condition. I did this when my friendly Audi dealer could not figure out how to avoid overfilling my A4. Good luck, Ken The OP posted yesterday that he took care of it by having WalMart change the oil again since he couldn't figure out how to drain only a qt. Here's what I would do: Remove the oil filter, dump the oil that's in it, reinstall it. Start the engine, let the filter fill again, turn engine off, then remove the filter again, dump it, reinstall it. Re-start engine, run long enough to re-fill filter, turn engine off. Recheck oil level. Depending on size of filter, that should have removed approx. 1 qt. of oil. |
Why not just unscrew the drain plug with your fingers until you can
fell the threads are completely disengaged, quickly pull it away, then
quickly put it back, tighten it back in, measure oil level on the
dipstick, and add whatever partial quart is needed, if you let too much out?
Ted
#35
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"Bill Putney" <bptn (AT) kinez (DOT) net> wrote in message news:50d7paF1fkha2U1 (AT) mid (DOT) individual.net... KWS wrote: You are probably wondering how to get the oil out. I suggest you buy one of those pumps that are driven by an electric drill. They usually have threaded ends to accept a normal hose fitting. By rummaging around at your local hardware store, you can find adapters that couple these fittings to plastic tubing (also sold by your hardware store). Slide the tubing from the inlet side into the dipstick hole and stick the other in a suitable container. Run the drill motor until you have removed enough oil to satisfy the "full" condition. I did this when my friendly Audi dealer could not figure out how to avoid overfilling my A4. Good luck, Ken The OP posted yesterday that he took care of it by having WalMart change the oil again since he couldn't figure out how to drain only a qt. Here's what I would do: Remove the oil filter, dump the oil that's in it, reinstall it. Start the engine, let the filter fill again, turn engine off, then remove the filter again, dump it, reinstall it. Re-start engine, run long enough to re-fill filter, turn engine off. Recheck oil level. Depending on size of filter, that should have removed approx. 1 qt. of oil. ?!? Why not just unscrew the drain plug with your fingers until you can fell the threads are completely disengaged, quickly pull it away, then quickly put it back, tighten it back in, measure oil level on the dipstick, and add whatever partial quart is needed, if you let too much out? |
Wouldn't it be easier (and cleaner) to just drain it all into a nicely
cleaned pan, then put back what you need? And then, if dollars and the
environment count, put the left-over into another jug to save for
top-ups and the next change?
I particularly don't like the oil filter emptying trick. Grit my teeth
everytime a motor starts with an empty filter, and runs for even a
few seconds with no pressure. Hate it so much that I don't let it
happen. With a vertical filter I fill 'er up as much as I can before
installing it. And with any filter I disable the ignition and crank it
for 15 seconds or so before I let it start. Dunno if it helps much or
not, but I feel better
Take care.
Ken
#36
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I particularly don't like the oil filter emptying trick. Grit my teeth everytime a motor starts with an empty filter, and runs for even a few seconds with no pressure. Hate it so much that I don't let it happen. With a vertical filter I fill 'er up as much as I can before installing it. And with any filter I disable the ignition and crank it for 15 seconds or so before I let it start. Dunno if it helps much or not, but I feel better |
Ofcourse some would claim that being concerned about overfilling the
crankcase means we worry too much.
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')
#37
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Good question Ken . Yes it does. I always start the engine and run it for a few minutes at idle just to make sure there are no leaks. Then I check the old level and it usually reads high by at least a half quart, maybe more. I don't even wait for oil to drain back into the crankcase, I just check the level to make sure it's okay and I didn't do something stupid. I like to see the nice clean oil on the dip stick. :-) OH. That explains a lot! The sloshing oil is climbing up the dipstick! Check the oil with the engine cold, before you start it. Then you'll get an accurate reading of what is in the crankcase! I really don't think there is any "sloshing oil" after the engine has |
waiting until the engine is cold is unnecessary.
#38
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On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 15:16:50 -0600, Don in San Antonio wrote: I really don't think there is any "sloshing oil" after the engine has stopped. Waiting a few minutes might give a more accurate reading, but waiting until the engine is cold is unnecessary. Yeah, that too. But as far as sloshing oil, the bottom end of the piston rods are bathed in oil, so some splashing does occur... |
When you say "bathed", you do mean pressure fed, don't you?
#39
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But as far as sloshing oil, the bottom end of the piston rods are bathed in oil, so some splashing does occur... |
"splash" oiled engines dip the conrods into the oil.
#40
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On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 10:53:34 -0800, cavedweller wrote: Hachiroku ハチ*ク wrote: On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 15:16:50 -0600, Don in San Antonio wrote: I really don't think there is any "sloshing oil" after the engine has stopped. Waiting a few minutes might give a more accurate reading, but waiting until the engine is cold is unnecessary. Yeah, that too. But as far as sloshing oil, the bottom end of the piston rods are bathed in oil, so some splashing does occur... errr, "after the engine has stopped.."? When you say "bathed", you do mean pressure fed, don't you? I dunno...I drive Toyotas, mostly. AFAIK, the bottom of the piston rods sit in the oil. |
the lube system. (or when the crankcase is overfull) In operation,
"oiling" for the rod bearings is accomplished by pressure feed.via the
cross drilled holes in the crankshaft journals.
Quote:
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I was thinking about this suject today, and I remembered back when I was in my 20's (um, this was just a *few* years ago...  A girl came up to a friend and I and said her car wouldn't start. She had an early 70's Mustang, a "Secretary Special", with a 6 cyl. You could here the solenoid actuating, everything seemed OK, but it just wouldn't crank. The other guy with me for some unknown reason pulled the dipstick, I guess to see if there was enough oil and trying to judge if the pistons had seized. There was oil, alright! All the way up the spout! He asked her how so much oil got in the engine, and she said, "I dunno...I just have them put a quart in every time I get gas"...! She thought cars burned oil as well as gas, and thought you had to add oil every time you added gas. We went back to my car and got my wrenches, and drained a quart...then another...then another...about 5 quarts. When it finally got to the FULL mark on the dipstick, we had her try it and the car started right up. |
up to the top end!! So now we come back to visualizing a crankcase
SO full that on cranking the pistons have nowhere to go on the BOTTOM
and generate a hydrostatic lock. Hilarious!!
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