Anyone know where to get an on-line shop manual for 2000 sebring
convertible?
I need to replace the rotary switch for the blower.
thnx

p_buck*nospam (AT) bellsouth (DOT) net wrote:

www.alldata.com - $25 for one year first vehcile, $15 for any renewal or
additional vehicles. With that you get access to the full TSB's
specific to that vehicle. Procedures and schematics are right out of
the FSM for your make/model/year - none of the 'Typical" schematic crap
that you find in aftermarket manuals. Not 100% of the FSM info. is
there, but they do a fairly decent job of including the important stuff.
Organization of the material is not the best - it can be difficult to
find (not always a logical path to a given procedure or info page).

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

<p_buck*nospam (AT) bellsouth (DOT) net> wrote

You cannot get the blower switch seperate from Chrysler, you have to get the
complete control assembly.
It is removed from the bottom once you get the cables and connectors
disconnected

Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech

I was afraid of this possibility - having to R&R an entire assembly due to
failure of one switch in it.
Any idea what the cost is for the control assembly?

<p_buck*nospam (AT) bellsouth (DOT) net> wrote

Those things rarely go bad but in all honesty I just replaced one last week
cause the fan was inop. the prcie was 167.00

The fan / blower in mine only works with switch turned up to 'high' and the
button in the center of the switch that turns on the A/C doesn't always stay
in the pressed-in / on position.
How hard is it to R&R this thing?
Is it worth the effort to try and get one out of a wreck?

"maxpower" <damnnickname (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> wrote

<p_buck*nospam (AT) bellsouth (DOT) net> wrote

That might be different. I don't know about yours but a lot of these setups
use a resistor to drop the power at the lower settings and cut out the
resistor at the highest setting. Your resistor might be broken.

That's the switch.

The one in the wrecked car will probably cost 2/3 of a new one, and
it will be in the same (or worse) condition as yours.

Get the part# from the dealer then take a look online for it.

Ted