I would very much appreciate from anybody in the know some advice on the
variants of the Triumph Stag, which is something I'm considering buying
for my wife as her first car (she has not owned her own car since she
came to the UK some years ago). I think this would be a more interesting
option than insuring her to drive my Rover SD1 Vitesses.

I'm not really familiar with the Stags, what the differences between the
MkI and MkII are, what engines and gearboxes were available other than
the Triumph 3.0 V8, running costs/economy, and whether the V8 should be
avoided unless it has been thoroughly reconditioned. I'm aware that some
have had Rover V8s plonked in them.

I don't really want a restoration project (and there certainly seem to
be a good number of well-restored Stags floating about anyway) as I'm
already paying through the nose to have my SD1 Vitesses repainted.

Most importantly, what can you get in the back seats? I'm guessing
they're not "real seats". Can you fit a child seat properly for our
toddler? How many years before he gets too big to allow three of us to
travel in it?

Any comments, anecdotes, encouragements/discouragements most welcome.

thanks,

Michael

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"Michael Kilpatrick" <michael (AT) mtkilpatrick (DOT) SPAMfsnet.co.uk> wrote

A good starting point would be to go through the archives of this NG, since
the subject was discussed in detail maybe a year or so ago.

If you ignore the extreme views at both ends of the spectrum, it boiled down
to the fact that its a pretty good and practical car, although there were
issues particularly with some aspects of the engine design which caused
unreliability problems when it was current. However, if you pay top dollar
for a properly restored one with known history you can expect all the
nasties have been resolved by now.

Re back seats - go and look at one and decide yourself!

I'd recommend buying from a specialist dealer rather than privately as you
are not familiar with the model and won't know what to look for. It will
cost more, obviously, but would be safer. And don't even think about a
restoration project or anything with the wrong engine.

Personally, I didn't like 'em much when they were current - seemed to be not
quite a sports car, not quite a Grand Touring car, fell between stools - but
now I can see the attraction. Must be mellowing in my old age.

Good luck.

Geoff MacK

"Michael Kilpatrick" <michael (AT) mtkilpatrick (DOT) SPAMfsnet.co.uk> wrote

The Triumph V8 was the only engine available. Most of them these days are
pretty reliable and sound way better than the Rover V8 IMO.

Back seats are reasonably OK for short/medium length trips.

Register on the forum at www.clubtriumph.org.uk Lots of proper Stag people
there to speak to.

"Michael Kilpatrick" <michael (AT) mtkilpatrick (DOT) SPAMfsnet.co.uk> wrote

Those with rover engines tend not to handle too well due to it being
considerably lighter and upsetting the suspension balance. All originally
had the triumph 3.0v8, available as 3-speed auto and 4-speed manual (with
overdrive on 3rd/4th). Almost all 3.0 v8's still in use will have been
rebuilt at some time, no doubt to a standard higher than original! Don't
touch ford v6 or triumph 2.5 engined models with a barge pole........
Stories of coolant issues, overheating and head gasket failure tend to be
exaggerated somewhat nowadays - if the cooling system etc is in good order
there's no problem.
Differences between Mk 1 and 2 are relatively few, you also find a few of
what was affectionately referred to as the Mk 1 1/2 - a Mk1 with a variance
of Mk 2 parts, but not to full Mk 2 spec. These are mainly near the end of
the "Tax-free" range, and all will be "L" registered. My own is a 1 1/2, it
has the Mk 2 intermittent wipers, instruments and seating, but Mk 1 seat
belts. It's a manual and I get around 25-28mpg on "Sunday run" driving.
Autos are worse, due to the higher rpm's at cruising speeds and the inherent
ability of an old design of autobox to consume power. I have, however,
removed the original Zenith Stromberg carburettors and converted mine to SU
carbs, which makes a difference. Electronic ignition is also advisable,
unless you like setting points up!

If you fit seat belts in the rear (3-point available, originals only had lap
straps as an option in the UK!) then there is indeed room for a child-seat.
my 8-year old travels in ours with no space concerns at all. I am 6'1" and I
fitted in the rear (ok, tightly, but I fitted!) whilst testing the seat
belts after fitting them.

Check floorpans carefully, and the area under the hood compartment, and the
boot floor front edges for rot, most panels are available should you ever
require any, but can be complex to repair correctly. Almost all cars suffer
from a slight "twitch" if you lift off the throttle mid-corner, due to
torque wind-up effectively locking the sliding splined couplings within the
rear driveshafts. This can also be caused by dry splines and/or worn
trailing arm bushes.
I bought mine as a "restored" car that had been laid-up for a number of
years, it's not too bad, but the first thing I did was to clean all the old
underseal and paint from the underside (horrible, messy job) and treat all
the underside metalwork to 2 coats of anti-rust primer, 2 coats of chassis
black then a decent coating of the soft non-setting waxoyl type underseal to
all seams and the inside of the wheelarches. Then I stripped the front and
rear suspension and replaced every single bush and ball-joint, then for an
encore I fitted a new power steering rack!
Hardtops rot like mad along the top of the front screen rail (mine has a few
blisters) and along the lower rear edge. Soft-tops dry out then crack and
tear, mine has, but I have a new one for it - I just haven't the time to fit
it!

You're welcome.
Badger.

P.S. I'm toying with the idea of selling mine to fund another project......