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#1
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#2
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It was apparently subjected to a major restoration in the 80's, with a lot of new panels, and dry-stored for the last 14 years or so but most of what I'm seeing looks original. There's a few rust blisters here and there on the outside, all the interior trim is good so far, but I've yet to remove the hardtop and raise the soft-top as it's devoid of a handbook or any instructions how to do this! Anyone any clues? |
#3
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The floorpans and underside are solid, but have had a few little repair patches over the years and the original pathetically thin BL underseal has dried out and is flaking off all over the place to expose bare unpainted steel (!) with thankfully only a very light dusty oxidation coating, so it'll be out with the wire brushes and then plenty of waxoyl-type underseal unless anyone can suggest anything better? |
#4
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On Sat, 7 Jan 2006 17:11:53 +0000 (UTC), "Badger" brianhatton (AT) btinternet (DOT) com> wrote: Yes, not underseal. A good etch primer then a chip-resistant topcoat (the stuff I have came from an autojumble and is fantastic, but unbranded). A lot of people recommend POR-15, this is however expensive and doesn't keep once opened. As for further rust prevention, one of the Dinitrol products - Frost list the range but you might find them cheaper elsewhere. But not underseal. -- |
#5
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"Chris Bolus" <chris (AT) FARINAb0lus (DOT) com> wrote in message news:sh30s1h3io7ecvsjoj5utrsvv592jktllc (AT) 4ax (DOT) com... On Sat, 7 Jan 2006 17:11:53 +0000 (UTC), "Badger" brianhatton (AT) btinternet (DOT) com> wrote: Yes, not underseal. A good etch primer then a chip-resistant topcoat (the stuff I have came from an autojumble and is fantastic, but unbranded). A lot of people recommend POR-15, this is however expensive and doesn't keep once opened. As for further rust prevention, one of the Dinitrol products - Frost list the range but you might find them cheaper elsewhere. But not underseal. -- Ok, ta for that Chris. Badger. |
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