hi can anyone tell me if there is a isolater or any product you can us
before you spray a plastic bumper with paint.The problem in past i hav
had is the paint goes on fine then a month or so later starts to pee
away.I can only assume that the paint has had a reaction to th
plastic


--
basalb

In message <basalb.2t7qqk (AT) autobanter (DOT) co.uk>
basalb <basalb.2t7qqk (AT) autobanter (DOT) co.uk> wrote:

available from paint mixing outlets.

You've not got a reaction just an adhesive problem, hence the need of a
promoting primer.


Stephen.


--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce

"basalb" <basalb.2t7qqk (AT) autobanter (DOT) co.uk> wrote

No reaction at all, the problem is the plastic is not 'keyed', you
need a special plastic primer.

In article <basalb.2t7qqk (AT) autobanter (DOT) co.uk>,
basalb <basalb.2t7qqk (AT) autobanter (DOT) co.uk> wrote:
You need a special primer. Halfords sell it. But I'm not sure the one type
does all types of plastic.

I have plastic covers on screw heads on my SD1 - loads of them. In two
shades of grey. They are the same shape and size as the type used on
kitchen units etc, but those are only easily available in white black
brown and beige. So I sprayed some. Had several attempts to find a good
primer - the best one being a clear one from Loctite, Plastic Padding
Acryplas plastics primer. It seems to work well on other flexible plastics
too. Says not suitable for polythene or soft PVC.

--
Small asylum seeker wanted as mud flap, must be flexible and willing to travel

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

":Jerry:" <INVALID (AT) INVALID (DOT) INVALID> wrote

As Others have said, you must use the right plastic primer.

I always mix some plasticiser in with the top coat and laquer too (if used)
(10-15%) as that will crack / peel / craze too if its too hard (plastic
bumpers flex, contract and expand alot more than you think)

Tim..

"basalb" <basalb.2t7qqk (AT) autobanter (DOT) co.uk> wrote

Here's the procedure for spraying a plastic bumper. I know, because I've
done it and I've made the stupid mistakes:

1) Panel wipe the whole bumper to remove as much mould release agent as
possible.

2) Thoroughly scotchbrite the area to be painted, using a grey (1200 grit
equiv) and plenty of panel wipe

3) Do not attack the area to be painted with DA sander like I did. There's
no need, and it's very difficult to sand plastic - it tends to form little
beads of plastic rather than sand evenly.

4) Mask the area not to be painted. Use 3M fineline tape for the edge
between painted and unpainted to get a decent line. PANEL WIPE AGAIN, just
before spraying.

5) Spray plastic primer - it's available in 1K form to go through a
spraygun, and is very thin - expect as little fault covering power as you
would from a top coat - IIRC U-pol sell most of their paints as rattle cans
if you don't have a gun, and it's called "Adhesion Promoter" IIRC.

6) Let the plastic primer flash off - mix your topcoat or get shaking those
rattle cans.

7) Spray top coat (I'm going to assume you know how to spray).

8) Remove masking once the paint has flashed off. It's not hard to tell when
the paint is set enough to not get everywhere when you unmask and not set so
much it'll flake. About 10 or 15 minutes for 2 pack IME.

That's the proper way to spray a plastic bumper. Leave mould release agent
on there or use the wrong primer and you can't expect it to last.

If there is a flex additive available for the paint system you're using, use
it, as it'll help reduce stone chips by a hell of a lot.

"Stephen Hull" <Steve (AT) 127 (DOT) 0.0.1> wrote

When was the last time you actually was involved with modern day paint
finishes Stephen?
Because I can tell you that you are indeed talking cak.

"Conor" <fyd (AT) kih (DOT) jp> wrote

I would have said very recently, unlike you moron, never mind the
other four people who say the same as Stephen. Now f*ck off troll.

In article <hv6dncaJbqQB_wzbnZ2dnUVZ8saonZ2d (AT) bt (DOT) com>,
Conor <fyd (AT) kih (DOT) jp> wrote:
Pray tell which part of his post is 'cak'?

Seems pretty accurate to me.

--
*If I throw a stick, will you leave?

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message <hv6dncaJbqQB_wzbnZ2dnUVZ8saonZ2d (AT) bt (DOT) com>
"Conor" <fyd (AT) kih (DOT) jp> wrote:

troll.

I've probably forgotten more than you will ever know about painting and
as I can't find any meaningful contribution from you on any group that I
subscribe to comfirms it.


--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce