Finally got the MegaSquirt fitted to the SD1. Once I'd finally got it to
idle, the rest of the tuning to get it to run well was easy. Fine tuning
for max power and economy will, I'm sure, take longer. What is immediately
noticeable is how much more poke it has at low to middling revs - the old
Lucas system was known for running weak there. Downside is the power
doesn't come in with a bang at about 3500 rpm anymore. ;-)

I'm just using it for fuelling at the moment. Once I'm reasonably happy
with that I'll change over to ignition as well.

--
*Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't*

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 17:23:56 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk> wrote:

Sounds good. One of my long-term intentions is to MegaJolt my fast road
Mini project. The ford coil pack is in my shed already.Though sorting
the body is priority uno. Once I get wifey's Mini resto done. At least a
family car shufflage now means I won't have son's Mini to weld as well!
--
Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by plain text email)
------1967 Riley Elf------1978 Mini 1000------1971 Mini Clubman------
--1972 Mini Clubman estate--1979 Ford Capri--1984 VW Type 25 camper--

In article <p95vc59v6nlehuu6vhjalbn45314phcu6b (AT) 4ax (DOT) com>,
Chris Bolus <chrisB (AT) RILEYELFb0lus (DOT) com> wrote:
A pal in the states got me a complete EDIS 8 kit from a scrappy. Obviously
pretty common there - but cost quite a bit secondhand in the UK. But I'm
going to start off with a modded distributor - advance mechanism locked up.

You might consider (if you can build it) a MegaSquirt kit. You can use it
ignition only - and then perhaps later change to throttle body injection.
Costs about 250 dollars as an import.

--
*Age is a very high price to pay for maturity.

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 09 Oct 2009 23:37:01 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk> wrote:

Oh, I can build it no probs, but injecting a Mini? That's hassle I don't
need. The main reason for wanting to do away with the dizzy is
wet-weather reliablilty!
--
Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by plain text email)
------1967 Riley Elf------1978 Mini 1000------1971 Mini Clubman------
--1972 Mini Clubman estate--1979 Ford Capri--1984 VW Type 25 camper--

In article <v36hd5hmcjlkmmkvgvdi0bh2nclrgg9ks3 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com>,
Chris Bolus <chrisB (AT) RILEYELFb0lus (DOT) com> wrote:
Not too difficult with throttle body - you could do it using a pair of old
SUs or whatever.

I never had a problem with my various Minis many years ago.

--
*Time is what keeps everything from happening at once.

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 18:43:23 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk> wrote:

I'll look into it.
Every one of mine has needed a rubber boot on the dizzy cap; otherwise
they get swamped on wet days. There isn't a lot of room to do that, so
losing the dizzy is a good solution, especially as it then has
programmable ignition!
--
Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by plain text email)
------1967 Riley Elf------1978 Mini 1000------1971 Mini Clubman------
--1972 Mini Clubman estate--1979 Ford Capri--1984 VW Type 25 camper--

In article <m2jhd5hoaf2ddi1s1gjunnjvfqu4o72ur2 (AT) 4ax (DOT) com>,
Chris Bolus <chrisB (AT) RILEYELFb0lus (DOT) com> wrote:
The only other sensors needed are water temp - you could probably just
substitute a different sensor to the existing one - intake air temp and a
throttle position sensor. Pretty well any decent pot will do as MS can
calibrate to it. The vacuum sensor is internal to the MS so merely needs a
tube to it. You can use a hotwire airflow sensor too if you wish - but
probably not needed. And to gild the lily a wideband O2 sensor. But that
costs.
I never really found the boot a problem. But I fitted electronic 'points'
early on so didn't need to get inside it often.

I'm not too sure separate coils will give any improvment. I'd guess when
starting afresh they could be cheaper than a distributor. I'm using a
distributor with the advance locked up but the original Lucas sensor and
coil - the driver for that being the MS one. But of course in my version
of the RV8 the distributor drives the oil pump so it would be expensive to
delete it completely.

--
*Letting a cat out of the bag is easier than putting it back in *

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 17 Oct 2009 00:47:31 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk> wrote:

Tell me about it (it's also expensive if you don't insert it
properly...) I have almost the same lump in my VW camper!
--
Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by plain text email)
------1967 Riley Elf------1978 Mini 1000------1971 Mini Clubman------
--1972 Mini Clubman estate--1979 Ford Capri--1984 VW Type 25 camper--

In article <7tikd5p2ke1dt46boaonuscvbr7eeo5tvd (AT) 4ax (DOT) com>,
Chris Bolus <chrisB (AT) RILEYELFb0lus (DOT) com> wrote:
The BL workshop manual has quite good instructions about fitting it -
engine at TDC, pump drive at 2 o'clock and rotor arm starting at 12
o'clock - or whatever. (Haven't got the actual instructions to hand but
you get the picture.) But you're in no doubt if it's right as the
distributor seats with a satisfying clonk. ;-)

--
*Time is the best teacher; unfortunately it kills all its students.

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.