Help ..Timing info for 1275cc A series conversion?

Hi,

Has anyone ever converted a late 1.3SPi 1275 Mini engine to normally
aspirated with electronic ignition?
I have just fitted a modern A series with HIF44, K&N air filter, LCB and
2" exhaust. It has the dizzy replaced with a Metro 42664A distributor
(the one with the electronic ignition module on it's side).
However I would like to know what the timing point for this setup is.
The Haynes manual says 13 degrees for a 1275.
The Rover manual for the (non SPi version of this) engine says 5 Degrees!
It can't pull the skin off a rice pud @ 5 degrees and seems much better
at 13, but not 'full of urgency' like I expected.
If anyone has either done this conversion successfully or has some
genuine figures I would be very grateful!

In anticipation....Dave

Dave Bullock wrote:

Hi,

Has anyone ever converted a late 1.3SPi 1275 Mini engine to normally
aspirated with electronic ignition?
I have just fitted a modern A series with HIF44, K&N air filter, LCB and
2" exhaust. It has the dizzy replaced with a Metro 42664A distributor
(the one with the electronic ignition module on it's side).
However I would like to know what the timing point for this setup is.
The Haynes manual says 13 degrees for a 1275.
The Rover manual for the (non SPi version of this) engine says 5 Degrees!
It can't pull the skin off a rice pud @ 5 degrees and seems much better
at 13, but not 'full of urgency' like I expected.
If anyone has either done this conversion successfully or has some
genuine figures I would be very grateful!

In anticipation....Dave

Just keep advancing it until light pinking is heard under load then
back off a fraction....

Thanks Phil, this has been suggested but I was worried that the dizzy
curve on the Metro 42664A might be wrong?
If all else fails I will try your suggestion, but was hoping someone had
cracked this.

Phil wrote:

Dave Bullock wrote:

Hi,

Has anyone ever converted a late 1.3SPi 1275 Mini engine to normally
aspirated with electronic ignition?
I have just fitted a modern A series with HIF44, K&N air filter, LCB and
2" exhaust. It has the dizzy replaced with a Metro 42664A distributor
(the one with the electronic ignition module on it's side).
However I would like to know what the timing point for this setup is.
The Haynes manual says 13 degrees for a 1275.
The Rover manual for the (non SPi version of this) engine says 5 Degrees!
It can't pull the skin off a rice pud @ 5 degrees and seems much better
at 13, but not 'full of urgency' like I expected.
If anyone has either done this conversion successfully or has some
genuine figures I would be very grateful!

In anticipation....Dave


Just keep advancing it until light pinking is heard under load then
back off a fraction....

"Dave Bullock" <DaveB (AT) ihr (DOT) mrc.ac.uk> wrote

Thanks Phil, this has been suggested but I was worried that the dizzy
curve on the Metro 42664A might be wrong?
If all else fails I will try your suggestion, but was hoping someone had
cracked this.

Phil wrote:

Dave Bullock wrote:

Hi,

Has anyone ever converted a late 1.3SPi 1275 Mini engine to normally
aspirated with electronic ignition?
I have just fitted a modern A series with HIF44, K&N air filter, LCB and
2" exhaust. It has the dizzy replaced with a Metro 42664A distributor
(the one with the electronic ignition module on it's side).
However I would like to know what the timing point for this setup is.
The Haynes manual says 13 degrees for a 1275.
The Rover manual for the (non SPi version of this) engine says 5 Degrees!
It can't pull the skin off a rice pud @ 5 degrees and seems much better
at 13, but not 'full of urgency' like I expected.
If anyone has either done this conversion successfully or has some
genuine figures I would be very grateful!

In anticipation....Dave


Just keep advancing it until light pinking is heard under load then
back off a fraction....

as soon as you move away from standard then figures go out the window. for
instance 36 degrees of static advance really suit a rover v8 if you are
using it on the track, standard is probably about minus 3

keep advancing till it feels right and keep it just before pinking with
cheap petrol, then use some good stuff, this way you will be safe if you are
away and have to put some supermarket petrol in.

mrcheerful

On Wed, 07 Jun 2006 12:30:24 +0100, Dave Bullock <DaveB (AT) ihr (DOT) mrc.ac.uk>
wrote:

Thanks Phil, this has been suggested but I was worried that the dizzy
curve on the Metro 42664A might be wrong?
If all else fails I will try your suggestion, but was hoping someone had
cracked this.

Try www.miniowners.com, a forum frequented by some very knowledgable

Mini people like the Calvers and AC Dodd.
--
Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by email)
---1967 Riley Elf----1978 Mini 1000----1965 Hillman Minx---
---1957 Standard 8---1979 Ford Capri---1969 Morris Minor---
---1966 Triumph Herald Estate--1972 Mini Clubman estate ---
********** Please don't email in HTML! **********

Dave Bullock wrote:

Thanks Phil, this has been suggested but I was worried that the dizzy
curve on the Metro 42664A might be wrong?
If all else fails I will try your suggestion, but was hoping someone had
cracked this.

If you're into re-curving a diz then you'll probably need the services
of an expert in rolling road tuning. Got to be easier using a fully
programmable ECU than messing around with springs & bobweights?

In message <1150100292.949535.18530 (AT) u72g2000cwu (DOT) googlegroups.com>, Phil
<philip_barton.geo (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> writes

Dave Bullock wrote:
Thanks Phil, this has been suggested but I was worried that the dizzy
curve on the Metro 42664A might be wrong?
If all else fails I will try your suggestion, but was hoping someone had
cracked this.


If you're into re-curving a diz then you'll probably need the services
of an expert in rolling road tuning. Got to be easier using a fully
programmable ECU than messing around with springs & bobweights?

I agree about the programmable ignition controller. I have my front
pulley (1275 type with the big mass damping ring) down at Morspeed in
Coalville at the moment having it machined to give a 36-1 tooth outer
section to give a signal to feed a Ford EDIS front end and a 'Megasquirt
Lite Junior' control unit. It'll be interesting to see how well it
works on a Mini.
--
Chris Morriss

In message <PfvCceFZvcjEFwTf (AT) oroboros (DOT) demon.co.uk>, Chris Morriss
<crsm (AT) oroboros (DOT) demon.co.uk> writes

In message <1150100292.949535.18530 (AT) u72g2000cwu (DOT) googlegroups.com>, Phil
philip_barton.geo (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> writes

Dave Bullock wrote:
Thanks Phil, this has been suggested but I was worried that the dizzy
curve on the Metro 42664A might be wrong?
If all else fails I will try your suggestion, but was hoping someone had
cracked this.


If you're into re-curving a diz then you'll probably need the services
of an expert in rolling road tuning. Got to be easier using a fully
programmable ECU than messing around with springs & bobweights?


I agree about the programmable ignition controller. I have my front
pulley (1275 type with the big mass damping ring) down at Morspeed in
Coalville at the moment having it machined to give a 36-1 tooth outer
section to give a signal to feed a Ford EDIS front end and a
'Megasquirt Lite Junior' control unit. It'll be interesting to see how
well it works on a Mini.

Duh!! The ignition controller is a MegaJolt. (I have a Megasquirt but
that's for EFI).
--
Chris Morriss

After they machine the outer ring do they re balance the pulley. I was
wondering because the other pulley I have seen pics of had pockets
machined which were about the same size or slightly larger than the
balance drilling in my pulley. As one is missing it would seem this
could upset the balance.

Chris Morriss wrote:

In message <1150100292.949535.18530 (AT) u72g2000cwu (DOT) googlegroups.com>,
Phil <philip_barton.geo (AT) yahoo (DOT) com> writes


Dave Bullock wrote:

Thanks Phil, this has been suggested but I was worried that the dizzy
curve on the Metro 42664A might be wrong?
If all else fails I will try your suggestion, but was hoping someone
had
cracked this.


If you're into re-curving a diz then you'll probably need the services
of an expert in rolling road tuning. Got to be easier using a fully
programmable ECU than messing around with springs & bobweights?


I agree about the programmable ignition controller. I have my front
pulley (1275 type with the big mass damping ring) down at Morspeed in
Coalville at the moment having it machined to give a 36-1 tooth outer
section to give a signal to feed a Ford EDIS front end and a
'Megasquirt Lite Junior' control unit. It'll be interesting to see
how well it works on a Mini.

In message <448F1870.4080906 (AT) djbillington (DOT) freeserve.co.uk>, David
Billington <djb (AT) djbillington (DOT) freeserve.co.uk> writes

After they machine the outer ring do they re balance the pulley. I was
wondering because the other pulley I have seen pics of had pockets
machined which were about the same size or slightly larger than the
balance drilling in my pulley. As one is missing it would seem this
could upset the balance.

At the moment they're machining the 36 'teeth'. I'll then temporarily
put the pulley on the crank and work out exactly where to put the
sensor. Once I've got the sensor mounting sorted out I'll grind off one
of the teeth at the right point so that the sensor reference point is 90
degrees before TDC (as the EDIS unit requires).

I'm only using it for road use so I doubt (and hope of course!) that the
change in balance won't matter too much. Morspeed have a front pulley
machined this way on their demonstrator car with a BMW K1100 twin-cam
head on it. I'll have a word with Simon at Morspeed when I pick the
machined pulley up to see if there's likely to be any balancing worries.
--
Chris Morriss