Widow rubber sealer

One of the fixed rear windows on my SD1 is leaking and I'm hoping to sort
it properly, which will mean removing it and checking the condition of the
paint etc behind the rubber. It's mounted in a conventional rubber seal
which appears to be in good condition although of course it may have
hardened over the years. New ones are readily available, though.

The workshop manual recommends 'Seelastik' between both glass and bodywork.

Is this still the best thing to use?

--
*Parenthetical remarks (however relevant) are (usually) unnecessary *

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

One of the fixed rear windows on my SD1 is leaking and I'm hoping to sort
it properly, which will mean removing it and checking the condition of the
paint etc behind the rubber. It's mounted in a conventional rubber seal
which appears to be in good condition although of course it may have
hardened over the years. New ones are readily available, though.

The workshop manual recommends 'Seelastik' between both glass and bodywork.

Is this still the best thing to use?

Many years ago I had success with something with a name like "Comma
seek-n-seal". It was a liquid that you ran along the rubber-glass join,
worked its way in and then went solid. No idea if it or equivalent
still exists.

Peter

--
www.amey.org.uk

That has to be typo of the week, Dave... Congrats!

In article <Xns98516B88DB429adrianachapmanfreeis (AT) 204 (DOT) 153.244.170>,
Adrian <toomany2cvs (AT) gmail (DOT) com> wrote:

That has to be typo of the week, Dave... Congrats!

;-) Perhaps it's not a typo...

--
*A fool and his money can throw one hell of a party.

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article <4oeomhFe5g2mU1 (AT) individual (DOT) net>,
Peter Amey <pnanews (AT) amey (DOT) org.uk> wrote:

Many years ago I had success with something with a name like "Comma
seek-n-seal". It was a liquid that you ran along the rubber-glass join,
worked its way in and then went solid. No idea if it or equivalent
still exists.

The more famous one is 'Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure'
But since these windows are easily removed I'd rather do this and check
the condition of the steel behind, and after use a conventional sealer.

--
*If at first you don't succeed, try management *

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk> wrote

One of the fixed rear windows on my SD1 is leaking and I'm hoping to sort
it properly, which will mean removing it and checking the condition of the
paint etc behind the rubber. It's mounted in a conventional rubber seal
which appears to be in good condition although of course it may have
hardened over the years. New ones are readily available, though.

The workshop manual recommends 'Seelastik' between both glass and
bodywork.

Is this still the best thing to use?

--
*Parenthetical remarks (however relevant) are (usually) unnecessary *

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Any good car shop will sell a mastic type tube of windscreen sealer, which
will be fine.

MrCheerful

mrcheerful . wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk> wrote in message
news:4e6fef6dd6dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk...
One of the fixed rear windows on my SD1 is leaking and I'm hoping to sort
it properly, which will mean removing it and checking the condition of the
paint etc behind the rubber. It's mounted in a conventional rubber seal
which appears to be in good condition although of course it may have
hardened over the years. New ones are readily available, though.

The workshop manual recommends 'Seelastik' between both glass and
bodywork.

Is this still the best thing to use?

--
*Parenthetical remarks (however relevant) are (usually) unnecessary *

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Any good car shop will sell a mastic type tube of windscreen sealer, which
will be fine.

MrCheerful


If you use a windscreen sealer you will never get the windows out again

as this is to bond the glass to the metal frame, for fitting
windscreens. Once its gone off you would have to cut it to break the
bond. You might well get away with something a bit less aggressive .
Ask a motor factors
Al

"Al Gorithm" <nospam4me (AT) onetel (DOT) net> wrote

mrcheerful . wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk> wrote in message
news:4e6fef6dd6dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk...
One of the fixed rear windows on my SD1 is leaking and I'm hoping to
sort
it properly, which will mean removing it and checking the condition of
the
paint etc behind the rubber. It's mounted in a conventional rubber seal
which appears to be in good condition although of course it may have
hardened over the years. New ones are readily available, though.

The workshop manual recommends 'Seelastik' between both glass and
bodywork.

Is this still the best thing to use?

--
*Parenthetical remarks (however relevant) are (usually) unnecessary *

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Any good car shop will sell a mastic type tube of windscreen sealer,
which will be fine.

MrCheerful
If you use a windscreen sealer you will never get the windows out again as
this is to bond the glass to the metal frame, for fitting windscreens.
Once its gone off you would have to cut it to break the bond. You might
well get away with something a bit less aggressive .
Ask a motor factors
Al

no, I didn't mean the permanent bond stuff, that usually only comes from
windscreen places. the car shop stuff remains flexible and removable.

Mrcheerful

On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 21:13:43 +0100, Al Gorithm <nospam4me (AT) onetel (DOT) net>
wrote:

mrcheerful . wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk> wrote in message
news:4e6fef6dd6dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk...
One of the fixed rear windows on my SD1 is leaking and I'm hoping to sort
it properly, which will mean removing it and checking the condition of the
paint etc behind the rubber. It's mounted in a conventional rubber seal
which appears to be in good condition although of course it may have
hardened over the years. New ones are readily available, though.

The workshop manual recommends 'Seelastik' between both glass and
bodywork.

Is this still the best thing to use?

--
*Parenthetical remarks (however relevant) are (usually) unnecessary *

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Any good car shop will sell a mastic type tube of windscreen sealer, which
will be fine.

MrCheerful


If you use a windscreen sealer you will never get the windows out again
as this is to bond the glass to the metal frame, for fitting
windscreens. Once its gone off you would have to cut it to break the
bond. You might well get away with something a bit less aggressive .
Ask a motor factors.

If it goes off it shouldn't be used for sealing windscreens. The correct
stuff is a non-setting mastic called Arbomast. I buy mine from Charles
Pugh (who supply the glass too).
--
Regards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by email)
---1967 Riley Elf----1978 Mini 1000----1965 Hillman Minx---
---1957 Standard 8---1979 Ford Capri---1969 Morris Minor---
---1966 Triumph Herald Estate--1972 Mini Clubman estate ---
********** Please don't email in HTML! **********

In article <4522c360 (AT) 212 (DOT) 67.96.135>,
Al Gorithm <nospam4me (AT) onetel (DOT) net> wrote:

If you use a windscreen sealer you will never get the windows out again
as this is to bond the glass to the metal frame, for fitting
windscreens. Once its gone off you would have to cut it to break the
bond. You might well get away with something a bit less aggressive .
Ask a motor factors

These windows use the 'old' method of mounting using a rubber seal - not a
bonded type like the windscreen.

The original windscreen bonding used on the SD1 was poor, and the new
screen I had fitted uses a modern material.

The original sealer used on the side windows was Seelastik according to
the workshop manual, so I just wondered if there was likewise a better
modern one. Not sure I'd trust the average counter hand in a motor
factor's these days. ;-(

--
*Heart attacks... God's revenge for eating his animal friends

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.