Willy Eckerslyke <oss108no_spam (AT) bangor (DOT) ac.uk> wrote

tests in the instruction leaflet, it will tell you a lot about your engine.

But you can do a fairly simple test for no compression without one. Stick
your thumb over a plug hole in the bank that does work and spin the engine
on the starter. That will give you a feel for reasonable compression (which
it must be for that bank to work). Then try each plug hole on the other
bank in turn and see if they feel similar.

Also don't overlook the obvious. For an engine to run, you only need three
things
1. Fuel and air mixed in the right proportions
2. Compression
3. A decent spark at the right time.

If you work through systematically, you must eventually find what is wrong.
You can assume the fuel and air are reasonable if the float chamber contains
petrol and the piston moves when you try the lifting pin, provided the
diaphragm isn't split.

You are about to try the compression - but it would be unusual if all four
cylinders in the bank were without. That would suggest the valves are open
at the wrong times, or were jammed open.

So don't make assumptions about the sparks. Four cylinders run, so use
these as your starting point for checking the firing sequence. You have
tested the electronic ignition, but it is worth checking that the
distributor contact that the rotor arm points at is connected to the
cylinder that is at TDC. Don't believe any lead numbering, and don't assume
the previous owner knew which cylinder was numbered what. Shine a torch
down the plug holes to look for the cylinder with the piston at the top, or
feel for it with a bit of washer tubing (Don't use wood or metal to probe!).
Then turn the crank to the next distributor connection for the dead bank
until you are certain that the right positions go to the right plugs. And
swap the plugs between the good bank and the dead one - you might have four
dud plugs, and if you swap them, the dead bank will move with them.

Happy hunting.
Jim

Jim Warren wrote:

Thanks very much for the useful post Jim. I've printed it off for the
weekend, so won't reply to it all right now.

I'd agree with that assumption if I knew the engine had been running
healthily before. Unfortunately I don't, and as someone's been mucking
about with it I'm a little dubious about the position of the jets. They
look very low compared to the Stroms on my Vitesse. But these are the
type that you can't adjust from below, so hopefully they've been left alone.

Working through it all systematically as you say has to be the key
though. Happily it's all easily accessible.

In article <4ed4ae2258dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk>, Dave Plowman (News)
says...
oil in the dashpot.
--
Conor

Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright
until you hear them speak.........

Conor wrote:

No, Strombergs.
Damaged diaphragms can cause problems, but I've replaced these. And
topped up the dashpots.

Willy Eckerslyke wrote:

Same way they used a different gearbox in the Dolomite to the Sprint,
They have an adaptor in between for the conversion.

Also the same way they use a 5 speed Toyota box behind a V8.

Also add to what Dave said that box on the Stag/Sprint/2500 is a very
strong box and capible of taking far more power.

Willy Eckerslyke wrote:

The adjustments are through the top but you need a special tool to stop
the piston turning whilst turning the allen key through the middle. You
will more than likely tear the diaphragm if you haven't the tool.

Once they have been set usually stay fairly close to being in tune.


Tool is pictured here

http://www.zeni.net/trf/britishws2/9...=1280&s_ht=960

Its the Cat 1 picture.

rm

"Willy Eckerslyke" <oss108no_spam (AT) bangor (DOT) ac.uk> wrote

This can happen, but is rare. Normally the left bank goes first (viewed from
driving pos'n), normally due to binding jackshaft/water pump, causing chain
stretch. There have also been issues with incorrectly hardened aftermarket
crankshaft sprockets and weak chains that stretch rapidly, and incorrectly
hardened water pump skew gears that cause jackshaft binding and failure.
Another cause of rapid chain stretch is a binding cam in a head, this is
usually caused by previous overheating. The stag engine has an unfair
reputation - if looked after it's a fine engine of its time, but woe betide
anyone who lets one overheat badly, the bills to fix correctly with no
further issues can be huge.

It probably wouldn't.

If the valve timing has slipped, there will be almost zero compression on
the bank affected.

If it's sat for a while, might be worth pulling the carbs apart and cleaning
the float valves - if you haven't already confirmed fuel is getting to all
cylinders. I *think* it's the same as the rover v8 in somuch as the left
carb feeds the 2 middle cylinders on the right bank and the end cylinders on
the left bank, the right carb feeding the other 4. depending what cylinders
are firing (pull leads to see?) that would narrow it down to either fuel
(outers on one bank, inners on the other) or mechanical (a complete bank
down) before looking further.

Will check book tonight if I get a chance.

Do a compression check first.
Badger.

"Willy Eckerslyke" <oss108no_spam (AT) bangor (DOT) ac.uk> wrote

Nope, pump unbolts complete with its bracketry and gets tied up beside the
washer bottle to enable battery removal! Better by design.........
Badger.

"Rob" <mesa (AT) mine (DOT) com> wrote

...
Stag box is different to the 2500 - looks identical on the outside but has
much heavier bearings to cope with the extra poke from the v8. Stag box can
cope with the power from a standard carb'd rover engine no probs - unless
it's subject to very course use or is already well past its best! 2500 box
won't last 3 weeks behind a rover v8!
Badger.

"Rob" <mesa (AT) mine (DOT) com> wrote

...
I've got one I hope to never have to use again (as I hope to never have
Strombergs again) - Open to offers...

Somewhere I've even got a NOS diaphragm for a CD150, again, if I ever have a
Stromberg to fit it to, I'll be using an SU instead..