Just to add to my junk, I've just bought a Triumph Stag for two hundred
quid. It's in the condition you'd expect for that sort of money, but
does have a genuine Stag engine in it. One that's pretty dead,
admittedly, but it's complete, fairly clean and not seized.
I managed to get it running for a few seconds on what sounded like one
bank of cylinders, then spent a couple of hours checking the carbs and
electrics (it has a complicated looking Newtronic electronic ignition
fitted, but working OK).
It didn't improve, so I started wondering if the timing chain had jumped
a cog or two on one side. No clues when I had a look under the rocker
covers. The timing chains didn't look particularly loose. The cams were
rather worn and pitted around some of the lobes, but I can't see why
that would stop it running.
There are no nasty noises when turning the engine over, though it seems
to turn a little too easily as if compression's down, which would back
up my thoughts about a timing chain problem.
I reckon the engine will fetch a reasonable sum on eBay, even in its
current state, but it'd be nice if I could get it running without
spending anything on it.
Anyone know how to check the cam's timing on one of these? And also, how
to get an idea whether the valves have clobbered the pistons?
Or any other thoughts at all about it?

Willy Eckerslyke wrote:

When these things stand for any length of time the valves stick and stay
open. (Rings seem to dry as well,) You could pull the covers off the
cams and check the clearance off the back of the cam. I think off hand 015"

It will not be the timing chains.

The cams do pit which is not a problem. I have never known the valves to
clip. on any of this family of engines.

Make sure that there are no air leaks in the inlet side. Hoses or rubber
caps off.

What happens if you place a few squirts of oil down each cylinder? ( to
seal the rings) and when you remove the plugs to put the oil in check
what colour they've been.

Would say, you may be pulling the heads off - what a bugger! with them
sloping studs - which could also be seized in the head.

The water pump may also be dry and will leak. check the slot in the
block for leaks.


rm

Rob wrote:

That's good to know. Thanks Rob. I was going from a somewhat biased
webpage which claimed that the chains stretch with age and "jump",
though couldn't really see how they could.

Again, that's good news!

The air cleaner was in the back of the car and some of the breather (?)
pipework was hanging loose with at least one elbow missing, so I'm not
at all sure I put it all back on correctly. There could well be an air
leak or two...
Reckon it'd do any harm if I just blanked them all off to see if it'll
start?

Haven't tried that yet.

They're all too new to tell me anything. They're a bit black, suggesting
the engine's been run since they were changed. And they match on both
sides of the engine. Someone's replaced the plugs, the distributor cap
and rotor arm very recently. I don't think the car's been standing for
long if at all. Someone's clearly tried to get it going, given up and
hauled it to the scrapyard - where I found it.
The diaphragms on the Stromberg carbs didn't look too healthy,
indicating that whoever's been there before didn't know all that much
about what they were doing.

I did ponder on that, then decided I'd be better off selling the engine
as-is on eBay with an honest description.
Bodywork is totally shot and it has been officially recorded as scrap,
so is only good for parts, but there's enough there for me to make a
decent profit.

I didn't see any signs of leaks when I looked yesterday.
One bit of bad news is the total lack of any anti-freeze in the coolant,
but it might not have been like that for long enough to cause any
damage, assuming the system was filled when the last person fiddled with it.

Incidentally, is it normal for the power steering pump to be on the same
side as the battery, preventing it from being lifted out?

In news:58h02lF2gtotfU1 (AT) mid (DOT) individual.net,
Willy Eckerslyke <oss108no_spam (AT) bangor (DOT) ac.uk> wittered on forthwith;
Throw a nice Rover engine in :-)


--
Pete M - Using the Scouse Side of the Force -
Golf GTi Mk2 (2.0 transplant in progress),
Golf GTi Mk1 (For Sale)
OMF#9

Currently listening to The White Stripes

Yes, the battery is on the same side as the power steering pump!

ken

1974 Slag auto
1976 Dolly Auto
1981 TR7 Manual
2003 Mini Auto
2006 Rover 75 CDTI Auto

In article <58h02lF2gtotfU1 (AT) mid (DOT) individual.net>,
Willy Eckerslyke <oss108no_spam (AT) bangor (DOT) ac.uk> wrote:
Usual things on these engines are points, carb diaphragms and sundry air
hoses or air leaks. Before looking for anything more complicated. If the
electronic ignition is ok that's one less thing to worry about.

--
*Some people are only alive because it is illegal to kill.

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Pete M wrote:

Hehe! For real irony value, I was half tempted to get the Stag engine
running then fit it into my P6.

Out of interest, how did folk mate the Rover engine to the Triumph
gearbox? Or did they just use the Rover 'box along with the engine?

Ken Forrest wrote:

Thanks, that had me puzzled. So do you normally have to move the pump to
swap batteries? On this one, there's no way it'd fit past, but perhaps
the engine's dropped a bit on its mounts or something.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I had another quick look at the air hoses last night and I'm not
convinced that there's enough wrong to prevent it starting.
I won't have time until the weekend to investigate further, but have
decided to finally buy a compression tester. Then at least I'll know
whether it's worth spending any more time on the engine.

Luckily the original box with instructions for the electronic ignition
kit was in the car - and it included details of how to test it. It had
me worried because there was also a second, identical kit that had
clearly been used, suggesting someone's been having problems with it in
the past. Also, there were too many leads to the coil (about 5), some
with insulation that was well past its best. Removing all of the old
leads and using a live feed from the battery should have eliminated any
trouble there.
The original distributor parts are also in the car, so I could swap it
all back if I have to.

Thanks Dave and everyone for your help, I'll keep you posted.

In article <58jc99F2gm920U1 (AT) mid (DOT) individual.net>,
Willy Eckerslyke <oss108no_spam (AT) bangor (DOT) ac.uk> wrote:
I doubt the Stag box would handle the torque for long.

--
*To steal ideas from *one* person is plagiarism; from many, research*

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.