I've got an old 1960 Austin Princess with a separate master cylinder (under
the chassis) and a reservoir tank under the bonnet.

I've tried to change the brake fluid as part of a standard service. Brakes
were 100% before, but I've managed to get air into the system and I can't
get rid of it.

I normally use a Sealey vacuum brake bleeder on the modern cars and it works
great with them, so I tried in on this and somehow I've introduced air into
the system.

Bleeding order is front o/s, front n/s, rear o/s rear n/s. No matter how
long I suck the fluid out, small air bubbles remain in the fluid.

I've already cracked the seal on the master cylinder and break fluid came
out, so the airlock isn't there. Any suggestions (apart from keep bleeding)
on how to get rid of this "bleeding" airlock.

Don't reply to my email address as it is a spoof one to get at the Spammers.

I occasionally have a similar problem on my Bedford CA Camper and the way I
get around it is to first adjust all the brake shoes so that they are all on
the drums then jack the vehicle up as high as I can get it at the rear,
usually using a set of car ramps. Start at the wheel furthest away from the
master and bleed that wheel then the other wheel. Drop the back to the
ground and jack up the front and repeat with the furthest away and finally
the last wheel.
That usually gets the air out or I have to do it once more, don't forget to
re adjust the brakes.

Martin P
"Classic Car Man" <home (AT) do-not-spam (DOT) freeserve.co.uk> wrote