VW auto transmission - no drive

#1

I've had the engine out of my 79 VW camper to redo the oil seals.
Whilst out I also removed the torque converter of the automatic
transmission and did the seal in that too.

Now on reassembly, I have no drive. The torque converter has been
reconnected and spins OK with the engine running. Also I've checked
the fluid.

All I've done is slide the torque converter out off the 3 sets of
concentric splines, do the seal then slide it back. As far as I could
tell it all re-engaged and was spinning freely before I bolted it up
to the drive plate, but I wonder if there is some special procedure
for refitting?

Does anybody have experience of this set up - it's an 090
transmission, code NE.

#2

In article
<a6f019a2-b7f7-4666-b89c-23dfd9c32308 (AT) 3g2000yqk (DOT) googlegroups.com>,
andyv <avevers (AT) fastmail (DOT) fm> wrote:

Quote:

I've had the engine out of my 79 VW camper to redo the oil seals.
Whilst out I also removed the torque converter of the automatic
transmission and did the seal in that too.

Now on reassembly, I have no drive. The torque converter has been
reconnected and spins OK with the engine running. Also I've checked
the fluid.

All I've done is slide the torque converter out off the 3 sets of
concentric splines, do the seal then slide it back. As far as I could
tell it all re-engaged and was spinning freely before I bolted it up
to the drive plate, but I wonder if there is some special procedure
for refitting?

None I know of.

Quote:

Does anybody have experience of this set up - it's an 090
transmission, code NE.

Probably a silly question, but have you checked the fluid level after
running the engine? The torque convertor has to be filled up and this
could have dropped the level below the pump pickup.

--
*The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth.

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

#3

In article <504bdd5131dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk>, Dave Plowman (News)
says...

Quote:

Probably a silly question, but have you checked the fluid level after
running the engine? The torque convertor has to be filled up and this
could have dropped the level below the pump pickup.

Gets my vote. Most people don't realise that many autoboxes require the

level to be checked with the motor running.

--
Conor

I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't
looking good either. - Scott Adams

#4

andyv wrote:

Quote:

I've had the engine out of my 79 VW camper to redo the oil seals.
Whilst out I also removed the torque converter of the automatic
transmission and did the seal in that too.

Now on reassembly, I have no drive. The torque converter has been
reconnected and spins OK with the engine running. Also I've checked
the fluid.

All I've done is slide the torque converter out off the 3 sets of
concentric splines, do the seal then slide it back. As far as I could
tell it all re-engaged and was spinning freely before I bolted it up
to the drive plate, but I wonder if there is some special procedure
for refitting?

Does anybody have experience of this set up - it's an 090
transmission, code NE.

I don't know the VW unit, but for Borg Warner units the gearbox and
torque converter have to be filled from the same filler. So when you
put the fluid in, does it go into the torque converter and then into the
gearbox, or is it the other way round? Because if you fill the gearbox
first, there won't be enough fluid to also fill the torque converter,
and you will have to have a couple of goes topping up until the torque
converter is full.

There should be a fluid connection between the torque converter and the
gearbox too. Are you sure you aligned everything so that this
connection is not blocked? You won't get any drive unless both the
torque converter and the gearbox have the correct fluid levels.

Finally, have you checked the fluid level with the engine running, after
placing the selector lever in each position for a short while to expel
all the air from the connecting oilways? It usually goes down a long
way from the level you fill it to when stationary, and the final level
is reached after about 5 minutes with the engine running, and this is
when you should top it up to the correct level.

Jim

#5

andyv wrote:

Quote:

I've had the engine out of my 79 VW camper to redo the oil seals.
Whilst out I also removed the torque converter of the automatic
transmission and did the seal in that too.

Now on reassembly, I have no drive. The torque converter has been
reconnected and spins OK with the engine running. Also I've checked
the fluid.

All I've done is slide the torque converter out off the 3 sets of
concentric splines, do the seal then slide it back. As far as I could
tell it all re-engaged and was spinning freely before I bolted it up
to the drive plate, but I wonder if there is some special procedure
for refitting?

Does anybody have experience of this set up - it's an 090
transmission, code NE.

I'll be suprised if it turns out to be anything other than incorrect
fluid levels.

#6

On 14 Apr, 17:19, Splodge <Splo... (AT) aol (DOT) com> wrote:

Quote:

andyv wrote:
I've had the engine out of my 79 VW camper to redo the oil seals.
Whilst out I also removed the torque converter of the automatic
transmission and did the seal in that too.

Now on reassembly, I have no drive. *The torque converter has been
reconnected and spins OK with the engine running. Also I've checked
the fluid.

All I've done is slide the torque converter out off the 3 sets of
concentric splines, do the seal then slide it back. As far as I could
tell it all re-engaged and was spinning freely before I bolted it up
to the drive plate, but I wonder if there is some special procedure
for refitting?

Does anybody have experience of this set up - it's an 090
transmission, code NE.

I'll be suprised if it turns out to be anything other than incorrect
fluid levels.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks folks

It might be to do with that but when I first checked it was in fact
too high on the dip stick. I've drained it all out and refilled to the
correct level and also tried it at various other levels and it's not
biting.

This box is supposed to be activated by engine speed and has no
electrical or vacuum connections. The only other thing I've
disconnected is the accelerator linkage which goes via a lever on the
top of the box, though I don't think it's relevant. However that's my
next move.

#7

andyv wrote:

Quote:

I've had the engine out of my 79 VW camper to redo the oil seals.
Whilst out I also removed the torque converter of the automatic
transmission and did the seal in that too.

Now on reassembly, I have no drive. The torque converter has been
reconnected and spins OK with the engine running. Also I've checked
the fluid.

All I've done is slide the torque converter out off the 3 sets of
concentric splines, do the seal then slide it back. As far as I could
tell it all re-engaged and was spinning freely before I bolted it up
to the drive plate, but I wonder if there is some special procedure
for refitting?

Does anybody have experience of this set up - it's an 090
transmission, code NE.

when you put the TC back on, did you rotate it while fitting and pushing, so
that it engaged with all the internal bits? after refitting the engine it
should have been necessary to pull the TC up to the flex plate, did you pull
it out? or was it already touching ? If it was touching straight away then
it might well be that it never was engaged with the pump, in which case it
will never start pumping and never drive. I haven't done this myself, but I
do know someone that did (on a ford). Another possible is if the flex plate
was removed and there should be a spacer which has been left out.

#8

In article
<d6aae6bf-7e06-4070-8e51-62ebfdcbaeb6 (AT) f21g2000vbf (DOT) googlegroups.com>,
andyv <avevers (AT) fastmail (DOT) fm> wrote:

Quote:

This box is supposed to be activated by engine speed and has no
electrical or vacuum connections.
They all use a mixture of engine and road speed to partially determine

gear change speeds. The other thing which determines this is...

Quote:

The only other thing I've disconnected is the accelerator linkage which
goes via a lever on the top of the box, though I don't think it's
relevant.
Which acts on the line pressure from the pump. Now I would expect this to

not allow that pressure to go below a set minimum - but before going
further connect it up and adjust correctly.

Quote:

However that's my
next move.

--
*A backward poet writes inverse.*

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

#9

In article <wB5Fl.13337$OO7.10730 (AT) text (DOT) news.virginmedia.com>,
Mrcheerful <nbkm57 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote:

Quote:

when you put the TC back on, did you rotate it while fitting and
pushing, so that it engaged with all the internal bits? after
refitting the engine it should have been necessary to pull the TC up to
the flex plate, did you pull it out? or was it already touching ? If
it was touching straight away then it might well be that it never was
engaged with the pump, in which case it will never start pumping and
never drive. I haven't done this myself, but I do know someone that
did (on a ford). Another possible is if the flex plate was removed and
there should be a spacer which has been left out.

Don't know this box but on all the ones I've worked on the tangs which
drive the pump are so long that you'd not get the box bolted up if they
weren't engaged correctly.

--
*Aim Low, Reach Your Goals, Avoid Disappointment *

Dave Plowman dave (AT) davenoise (DOT) co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

#10

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Quote:

In article <wB5Fl.13337$OO7.10730 (AT) text (DOT) news.virginmedia.com>,
Mrcheerful <nbkm57 (AT) hotmail (DOT) com> wrote:
when you put the TC back on, did you rotate it while fitting and
pushing, so that it engaged with all the internal bits? after
refitting the engine it should have been necessary to pull the TC up
to the flex plate, did you pull it out? or was it already touching ?
If it was touching straight away then it might well be that it never
was engaged with the pump, in which case it will never start pumping
and never drive. I haven't done this myself, but I do know someone
that did (on a ford). Another possible is if the flex plate was
removed and there should be a spacer which has been left out.

Don't know this box but on all the ones I've worked on the tangs which
drive the pump are so long that you'd not get the box bolted up if
they weren't engaged correctly.

You would be amazed at what people manage to do, I have seen clutch plates
in backwards, cambelts routed wrong but the engine still runs, battery leads
reversed, lhd headlights fitted in rhd vehicles, bulbs upside down, brake
pipes cut and crimped over, thermostats in backwards, disc pads in metal
side to disc. etc. etc. Wrong wheels that rub on the struts. Wrong wheels
that cause the studs to bend and snap off. All owner induced faults.